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The Cars => 1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H => Topic started by: Tinface on March 15, 2018, 06:11:31 AM

Title: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 15, 2018, 06:11:31 AM
Gentleman,

I’m a new member and recently purchased a 1966 gt350 #2148. I love the car. But is has developed an intermittent problem during the 150 miles I’ve driven it after I purchased it.

Two questions:

(1) SF Bay Area Mechanic recommendation?
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area (Palo Alto) and I need help fixing a problem with the car and service down the road. I hoping one of you might know of a GT350 expert I can entrust the car to diagnose and repair the problem. Any recommendations?

(2) Is there anyone here who is capable enough to diagnose the problem?

Background: As I said, I purchased the car from a very reputable dealer. He indicated his shop “did everything front to back” and I believe they did.

After about 100 very gentle brake-in miles 2148 started acting like it was running out of fuel. I discovered that if I pulled  the choke out when it started coughing and sputtering, it smoothed out, but when I pushed the choke in, it coughed and sputtered out and will die unless the choke is pulled out a bit

With no choke: it dies and off to the side of the road I go.

If I let it die, and sit by the side of the road and watch the EType Jaguars, Toyotas and Corvettes drive by gauking at me and grinning for 5 minutes or so, it fires right up again and might run fine for several very controlled throttle sensitive miles; then it sputters and coughs and dies unless I pull out the choke and try to tease it on homeward bound.

Gentleman, any ideas where I can take it in Northern California AND any ideas as to what is causing this issue and how I can fix it?

Thank you very much for any help.

Mark
Aka “tin”

It acts like it’s either
1. A fuel filter,
2. A fuel pump.

Could it be a gas tank that has debris inside clogging the fuel system? The tank looks like it was replaced at some point because it looks spotlessly shinny tin on the exterior which would perhaps explain several cut wires right above the tank, and the fact the fuel gauge doesn’t work, except a barely perceptible “movement “ when the ignition is turned on. Im thinking the gauge itself works but the sending unit doesn’t work.




Title: Re: N purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bill on March 15, 2018, 06:22:08 AM
I'd suspect a clogged filter, or a bad fuel pump, do you smell any gas when you lift the hood?
Float bowls on the carburetor could be sticking, have you checked the float levels?
Bad fuel pick up or clogged fuel pick up in the gas tank could be the cause as well. Had a Ram Air IV 70 GTO we actually found a dead animal in the tank, the tail, stuck in the pick up sock would get sucked in under heavy load, causing the car to sputter and stall intermittently, so anything is possible.

For now, I'd stick with the basics, do one at a time, and work your way towards driving nirvana

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill S..
PS: You did remember to put gas in the tank, right ?  ;)
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 15, 2018, 06:30:38 AM
Hi Bill,

Thank you. Those suggestions seem to be on point.

Thank you.

Mark
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Greg on March 15, 2018, 08:11:45 AM
Bill is probably correct, is the temperature running normal?
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bigfoot on March 15, 2018, 09:23:09 AM
That’s frustrating but carburetor problems do pop up on cars. Particularly when they have been sitting and then all of a sudden get lots of use.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: tesgt350 on March 15, 2018, 10:28:10 AM
So, all you have said is you have only driven the Car very gently....... I am thinking the Pump is pumping more than you are using and it is flooding out the Engine.  Have you tried driving it harder?  Drive it like you stole it and see what happens.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 15, 2018, 10:49:38 AM
Regarding driving it harder, if it weren’t a new engine I would consider that. But I see you point.

What is the best way to brake in a fresh rebuilt motor?

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: kjspeed on March 15, 2018, 10:54:10 AM
Mark, if pulling out the choke keeps it from stalling then it's not getting enough fuel. Could be fuel pump, filter, crap in the tank or carb issues. If the floats aren't set properly the float bowls won't fill up and it will starve for fuel. Same thing can happen if the needle valve is sticking (closed).


Interestingly, my '68 GT350 is #2148 also. Does that make us next-of-kin?


Kevin
Title: Re: N purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bob Gaines on March 15, 2018, 01:03:21 PM
I'd suspect a clogged filter, or a bad fuel pump, do you smell any gas when you lift the hood?
Float bowls on the carburetor could be sticking, have you checked the float levels?
Bad fuel pick up or clogged fuel pick up in the gas tank could be the cause as well. Had a Ram Air IV 70 GTO we actually found a dead animal in the tank, the tail, stuck in the pick up sock would get sucked in under heavy load, causing the car to sputter and stall intermittently, so anything is possible.

For now, I'd stick with the basics, do one at a time, and work your way towards driving nirvana

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill S..
PS: You did remember to put gas in the tank, right ?  ;)
+1.  Do one at a time steps.  Fuelpump is the first thing I would try on the list however. I recently had a somewhat similar problem and the fuel pump is what cured my situation. It wasn't the first thing I tried because the restored button top fuelpump was not what I wanted to have be the problem  :'( .
Title: Re: N purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bob Gaines on March 15, 2018, 01:04:57 PM
I'd suspect a clogged filter, or a bad fuel pump, do you smell any gas when you lift the hood?
Float bowls on the carburetor could be sticking, have you checked the float levels?
Bad fuel pick up or clogged fuel pick up in the gas tank could be the cause as well. Had a Ram Air IV 70 GTO we actually found a dead animal in the tank, the tail, stuck in the pick up sock would get sucked in under heavy load, causing the car to sputter and stall intermittently, so anything is possible.

For now, I'd stick with the basics, do one at a time, and work your way towards driving nirvana

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill S..
PS: You did remember to put gas in the tank, right ?  ;)
+1.  Do one at a time steps.  Fuelpump is the first thing I would try on the list however. I recently had a somewhat similar problem and the fuel pump is what cured my situation. It wasn't the first thing I tried because the restored button top fuelpump was not what I wanted to have be the problem  :'( .
I used a generic spare fuelpump to determine if that was the issue and for my situation it was.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: sg66 on March 15, 2018, 01:52:36 PM
Mark, if pulling out the choke keeps it from stalling then it's not getting enough fuel. Could be fuel pump, filter, crap in the tank or carb issues. If the floats aren't set properly the float bowls won't fill up and it will starve for fuel. Same thing can happen if the needle valve is sticking

This ^

I would start with the floats (easy) and work back from there
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Don Johnston on March 15, 2018, 02:11:18 PM
I would suspect fuel filter also.  But I also assume that the fuel is fresh.  If you have had any E10 or E15 sitting in the tank more than a month, it will separate and the car will occasionally bog due to the water separation in the fuel. 
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: csxsfm on March 15, 2018, 03:29:42 PM
One item that's easy to overlook is the tiny vent in the fuel cap.  Sometimes these plug with corrosion and hinder fuel flow.  The engine will idle but when more fuel is demanded, the vent won't let enough air in the gas tank and engine stumbles and hesitates.  Happened to me "back in the day" after I installed an engine built and dynoed by Traco that I knew was good. 
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: pmustang on March 15, 2018, 04:40:02 PM
Am I the only person who wants a photo posted of your new baby, broken down on the road side or not

Hope you get your issue sorted soon.

Peter
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: deathsled on March 15, 2018, 08:30:50 PM
Am I the only person who wants a photo posted of your new baby, broken down on the road side or not

Hope you get your issue sorted soon.

Peter

Second the motion.

Richard E.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on March 15, 2018, 09:11:28 PM
"........What is the best way to brake in a fresh rebuilt motor?

put in some good synthetic oil, I like Mobil 1 15w-50, 1300 ppm zinc / 1200 ppm phosphorus. But any good synthetic oil with over 1000 ppm ZDDP will be fine, and drive it all over the rpm range. Don't neglect the 4,000 to 6,000 rpm area.  You aren't hurting the engine, you are exercising it.

 after  500 miles change the oil and filter. 

There are a lot of varying opinions regards using a synthetic oil for break in . I am in the camp that uses synthetic oil for break-in and thereafter as well. Aside from the fact that numerous  new car manufacturers use synthetic from the git-go, I've been using it during break-in for 20 years in numerous classics with zero ill effects. Synthetic is superior in regards to reducing friction related wear, & at break in this becomes even more important.  Some say it reduces friction too much and rings don't seat. Personally I've never encountered this issue, and neither do the millions of new cars that come from the factory with synthetic in the crankcase.


Z

Put in a new fuel filter. It takes 5 minutes, and you'll know at once if that's the issue.

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on March 15, 2018, 10:32:09 PM
Am I the only person who wants a photo posted of your new baby, broken down on the road side or not

Hope you get your issue sorted soon.

Peter

Second the motion.

Richard E.

Dilly Dilly 🍻🍺
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on March 15, 2018, 10:38:14 PM
"........What is the best way to brake in a fresh rebuilt motor?

put in some good synthetic oil, I like Mobil 1 15w-50, 1300 ppm zinc / 1200 ppm phosphorus. But any good synthetic oil with over 1000 ppm ZDDP will be fine, and drive it all over the rpm range. Don't neglect the 4,000 to 6,000 rpm area.  You aren't hurting the engine, you are exercising it.

 after  500 miles change the oil and filter. 

There are a lot of varying opinions regards using a synthetic oil for break in . I am in the camp that uses synthetic oil for break-in and thereafter as well. Aside from the fact that numerous  new car manufacturers use synthetic from the git-go, I've been using it during break-in for 20 years in numerous classics with zero ill effects. Synthetic is superior in regards to reducing friction related wear, & at break in this becomes even more important.  Some say it reduces friction too much and rings don't seat. Personally I've never encountered this issue, and neither do the millions of new cars that come from the factory with synthetic in the crankcase.


Z

Put in a new fuel filter. It takes 5 minutes, and you'll know at once if that's the issue.

Aren't modern engines built much tighter than old pushrod engines?

I use Joe Gibbs break-in oil to seat rings (Roller valve trains).  It is Dino oil.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: jerry merrill on March 16, 2018, 02:15:46 AM
Check for vacuum leaks
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Dynomax on March 16, 2018, 07:51:07 AM
+ 1 for non venting fuel cap causing vacuum in the fuel tank. Easily eliminated as a symptom.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: gt350hr on March 16, 2018, 11:09:08 AM
    Mostly Mustangs in Oakland is owned by Jack Schroll and is an excellent place to use . Jack is a long time SAAC member and former owner of 6S001. He can make your car run like it should.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: J_Speegle on March 16, 2018, 03:36:43 PM
+ 1 for non venting fuel cap causing vacuum in the fuel tank. Easily eliminated as a symptom.

Easy enough to remove the gas cap and try it.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 16, 2018, 04:17:43 PM
Wow. I just want to say thank you so much for each and every one of you really helpful posts to my problem.

What oil to use in a new engine, how to brake in a new engine, what issues are causing my problem, gas cap, fuel filter, floats, the various carb issues.

Also, the Mostly Mustang referral helps. When I was considering purchasing two of the gt350s Fantacy Junction cars but passed, they mentioned Mostly Mustangs. If anyone has had dealings with them that were great or moe private—not so great—I sure would appreciate a private and confidential message. I don’t want to entrust my assets to someone unless they are really competent.

Thank you so much all

By the way, I had a well funded  silicon valley friend with me when the car died on the freeway the first time. I’ve been trying to show him reasons why these cars are sooo much cooler than a new McLaren— which we went into the local dealer a few weeks ago, and put a deposit on. “One shot fired.” One shot ..MISSED”. No photos of the brakedown will be posted here. However, if interested, check out the Jaguar clubs in the SF areas. A nice series 1 rag top E-Type with a blonde woman in the passenger seat purred by—a wry smile on the driver’s face. He didn’t bother to stop...
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 6s2020 on March 16, 2018, 05:24:10 PM
I know you said your car has had a thorough restoration , but have you replaced the short fuel hose between the sender unit and hard line?
These tend to constrict with age and have seen first hand a mustang run fine, then under load or up hill cough and splutter then die, will start back up again and repeat. He replaced this hose and all good.

Darryll
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 16, 2018, 05:29:23 PM
Daryl, that is an interesting point thank you very much for that.

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on March 16, 2018, 11:59:00 PM
"........What is the best way to brake in a fresh rebuilt motor?

put in some good synthetic oil, I like Mobil 1 15w-50, 1300 ppm zinc / 1200 ppm phosphorus. But any good synthetic oil with over 1000 ppm ZDDP will be fine, and drive it all over the rpm range. Don't neglect the 4,000 to 6,000 rpm area.  You aren't hurting the engine, you are exercising it.

 after  500 miles change the oil and filter. 

There are a lot of varying opinions regards using a synthetic oil for break in . I am in the camp that uses synthetic oil for break-in and thereafter as well. Aside from the fact that numerous  new car manufacturers use synthetic from the git-go, I've been using it during break-in for 20 years in numerous classics with zero ill effects. Synthetic is superior in regards to reducing friction related wear, & at break in this becomes even more important.  Some say it reduces friction too much and rings don't seat. Personally I've never encountered this issue, and neither do the millions of new cars that come from the factory with synthetic in the crankcase.


Z

Put in a new fuel filter. It takes 5 minutes, and you'll know at once if that's the issue.

Aren't modern engines built much tighter than old pushrod engines?

I use Joe Gibbs break-in oil to seat rings (Roller valve trains).  It is Dino oil.


I do imagine there are major differences in piston and piston ring materials and design.  How that translates to a reluctant use of synthetic oil,  that is something  I question as being reasonable.

not sure what the low end of the rod and main bearing clearances are for modern engines. But the low end of desired clearance for  '65/'66 Ford 289's are pretty tight.  re the Ford shop manual: Mains:  0.0005"  Rod big end: 0.0008".  non HiPo piston clearance low end : 0.0014" HiPo piston clearance low end: 0.003".   I still build engines using this  low end of the desired tolerances for the bearings and the pistons too.  Very long lasting, and just as durable as setting them up loose, when the right lubrication is maintained.

When I was first learning the insides of Ford engines in the mid 1960's , my job at uncles shop was to tear down engines from crashed cars for cannibalizing of the parts. These newish engines routinely had clearances  on the low end of the published specifications.

Z

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: J_Speegle on March 17, 2018, 12:05:58 AM
What is the best way to brake in a fresh rebuilt motor?

IMHO I and many others just install Brad Penn brake in oil and be done with it.  Run it up and down the rpm with a slight load in both directions  - up and down the rpm range.  Yes this can be seen as old fashion but has served many well for 60 plus years
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 1967 eight barrel on March 17, 2018, 03:53:39 AM
I realize that this is a "new restoration" but I was curious if you know what it has for an ignition system? If they have replaced the points with a Pertronix unit, there may be an issue. I'll be glad to explain in PM. I have also seen faulty condensers cause similar issues. I had just this issue on my Harley. I ran a direct ignition sourced 12V for my Shelby and it stopped hard starts and rough idling post warm up.
                                                                                                             -Keith
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 98SVT - was 06GT on March 17, 2018, 05:51:01 AM
Another vote against synthetic oil for break-in. Run regular 30 weight for first 100 miles. Drain and 30 weight again to 1000 miles. Then Mobil 1 forever. With a flat tappet cam you'll feel better if you add some zinc too but I've found Mobil 1 is a good enough lubricant not to need it with stock valve spring rates. New cars come with semi-synthetic oil not full synthetic. I also use a filter designed to work with synthetic oil.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Stubee on March 17, 2018, 06:03:56 AM
No Photo of the. ..Breakdown at the side of the road? 
No problem.. I would get some friends and do a recreation of sorts... Get a Jag as you had mentioned earlier and have the Jag parked in front of your Shelby at the side of the road. Only change is this time, have him abandoned and sitting in his car, with the blonde under the Shelby hood and you both looking for the problem...
You have the smirk, she has the smile and he has the scowl..

Sorry, back to the technical issues at hand.

Stubee
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 1690 on March 17, 2018, 10:09:42 AM
All good suggestions.

Last addition....I did not see this mentioned: Was the gas tank and fuel lines replaced or are they original?  How is your fuel?
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: mark p on March 17, 2018, 01:16:56 PM
Another vote against synthetic oil for break-in. Run regular 30 weight for first 100 miles. Drain and 30 weight again to 1000 miles. Then Mobil 1 forever. With a flat tappet cam you'll feel better if you add some zinc too but I've found Mobil 1 is a good enough lubricant not to need it with stock valve spring rates. New cars come with semi-synthetic oil not full synthetic. I also use a filter designed to work with synthetic oil.

FWIW, new Fords use that 5W20 Synthetic bland (per some buddies), new GM uses 5W30 Sythetic "Dexos" ONLY specified for my Acadia. Not sure about FCA or them furrin brands.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: deathsled on March 17, 2018, 01:19:01 PM
Once you get it sorted, that Jaguar will be experiencing this instead of smiles and laughter. Remember B production champions from 1965, 1966 and 1967!
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: s2ms on March 17, 2018, 01:24:58 PM
Some great advice here.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the coil. Probably unlikely in your case but in my experience failing coils can cause very weird, intermittent problems, especially when hot. Can't explain how using the choke would make things better unless the denser fuel charge helped with a weak spark?? Anyway, something to consider, especially if you're using one of those lousy repop yellow tops, and easy enough to check.

Dave
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: sg66 on March 17, 2018, 02:46:39 PM

After about 100 very gentle brake-in miles 2148 started acting like it was running out of fuel. I discovered that if I pulled  the choke out when it started coughing and sputtering, it smoothed out, but when I pushed the choke in, it coughed and sputtered out and will die unless the choke is pulled out a bit

With no choke: it dies and off to the side of the road I go.

If I let it die, and sit by the side of the road .....for 5 minutes or so, it fires right up again and might run fine for several very controlled throttle sensitive miles; then it sputters and coughs and dies unless I pull out the choke and try to tease it on homeward bound.

Could it be a gas tank that has debris inside clogging the fuel system? The tank looks like it was replaced at some point because it looks spotlessly shinny tin on the exterior which would perhaps explain several cut wires right above the tank, and the fact the fuel gauge doesn’t work, except a barely perceptible “movement “ when the ignition is turned on. Im thinking the gauge itself works but the sending unit doesn’t work.
Re-reading this today, it sounds like the first 100 miles had no issue? This would likely mean the float levels are probably not the cause....but still worth checking. The car is dying due to lack of fuel which you can temporarily correct by pulling the choke. So the question is whether there is a piece of debris inside the carb which temporarily is blocking normal fuel delivery or if the issue is outside...filter, pump, fuel line, sending unit. Check the float levels at idle first and then go for a drive. If/when the car dies, pull over. Do not try to crank the motor over yet. First open up the plugs on the fuel bowls. Does any fuel come out of the bowls? If no, shake the car side to side, any fuel? If no, now you know you have an issue getting fuel into the bowls. I say "bowls" because you would also need to check the needle and seat in the carb. If fuel comes out when you first open it, your issue is very likely a foreign object inside the carb which is preventing proper fuel delivery into the intake. 

I have a lawn tractor that was doing the same thing and turned out the gasket on the fuel cap had eroded and pieces of rubber had fallen into the tank and found their way to the outlet blocking most of the fuel from entering the line to the filter. Moving the throttle to choke would help it run for a couple seconds but eventually it would die. After sitting for a minute, the rubber would float away and the engine would run fine. Filters should prevent this from happening inside your carb but if it was rebuilt and a piece of gasket or something is floating around in there, it could have the same effect. Ethanol fuels are not friendly to many parts. Fred Ballard rebuilds the fuel pumps for these cars and uses parts that will not deteriorate from ethanol. The other oddball thing to consider is vapor lock but I was in Palo Alto a few weeks ago (right by the McLaren dealer) and it didn't seem hot enough where ambient temperature would contribute to vapor lock. That also usually takes more than 5 minutes of cool down time to go away.

My personal experience with a bad fuel pump was at SAAC 10 when there were a bunch of us doing burnouts outside the hotel parking lot. After a few, my engine would no longer rev beyond ~ 3,000 RPM's due to fuel starvation. I drove it home over 200 miles and had no issue as long as the RPM's stayed low.

I also had a friend with '58 MGA with a similar problem to what you describe. Carbs were getting fuel at idle, new filter but after driving, crapped out. Traced it back to an electric fuel pump with a canister like on '65 pumps that had filled up with rust and sediment from the fuel tank. When the rust settled, it could pump enough fuel but once the car started to move, it was enough to kill the fuel delivery.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: NC TRACKRAT on March 17, 2018, 05:45:41 PM
Like sg66, I vote for trash in the tank.  You start off fine but, after getting up to operating temp, the sediment or rust in the tank sloshes around and gets suspended in the gas, then clogs the pick-up in the tank.  You sit for a while, the crap settles and you can drive o.k. until it stirs up again. If they didn't replace the tank when they did the restoration, this is the first place I would investigate.   Drain/siphon the gas, take out the sending unit and look in there with a flashlight.  Many years ago, this same thing almost ruined a day for me at Summit Point
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: corbins on March 17, 2018, 08:10:32 PM
Certainly sounds like a fuel delivery issue,,  not a damn thing to do with oil. Especially after 150 miles of "carefree" driving.  Either float levels are off , or something is clogging up the filter /needle and seat. Sediment, rust, deteriorated seals/gaskets , etc as has been suggested already. Good luck ! Try the easy stuff first :)
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 98SVT - was 06GT on March 18, 2018, 03:48:30 AM
Once you get it sorted, that Jaguar will be experiencing this instead of smiles and laughter. Remember B production champions from 1965, 1966 and 1967!
This same scene with the same cars was repeated at Monterey Historics - until 5R001 broke.
I vote for carb. Not delivery as when you pull the choke it runs better so there is fuel for it to run it's just not being metered through the carb right. Pull the bowls and make sure there isn't crude floating around. Also if it's ever sneezed it probably blew the power valve so change that while you are in there.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on March 18, 2018, 07:59:40 AM

IMHO I and many others just install Brad Penn brake in oil and be done with it.  Run it up and down the rpm with a slight load in both directions  - up and down the rpm range.  Yes this can be seen as old fashion but has served many well for 60 plus years

I'm with you 100% on the slight load / up and down rpm range. Fastest way to seat rings, and end up with the most HP.
note:  .....didn't know Brad Penn made brakes, but I'm usually uninformed about these  "braking" developments, nevertheless,  I want to be there when you put the brake(s) in the oil. .....don't just love spell check ???  ;)

Another vote against synthetic oil for break-in. Run regular 30 weight for first 100 miles. Drain and 30 weight again to 1000 miles. Then Mobil 1 forever........"

using a straight 30 wt. for a break in oil is great for accelerated wear vs. any multi viscosity. However, there is a difference between breaking in & wearing in. A multi-viscosity oil will reduce wear during start up and during the warm up phase, where much of the wear occurs. After an engine had reached full operating temperatures, a straight 30 wt. and a 0w-30, 5w-30, or 10w-30 have have the same flow properties,

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php


".......FWIW, new Fords use that 5W20 Synthetic bland (per some buddies), new GM uses 5W30 Sythetic "Dexos" ONLY specified for my Acadia. Not sure about FCA or them furrin brands.


a partial list of a few of the cars using full synthetic oil from the factory:

note: The Fords listed below use this full synthetic oil for a factory fill, and recommended  thereafter:

Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil. Part number is XO-5w50-QGT  ( likely a re-branded Mobil 1 5w-50 ??? ):

Ford GT
Ford Mustang Shelby GT500   5.4 S/C engine
Ford Mustang Shelby GT500   5.8 S/C engine
Ford Mustang Boss  5.0 4v engine
Ford Mustang GT Track Pack  5.0 4v
Ford Mustang GT350  5.2 4v
Ford Focus RS  2.3 EcoBoost

most of the following use Mobil 1  as a factory fill:

Chevy Corvette, Corvette C7.R & Camaro Z/28
Mercedes,
McLaren,
Porsche
Aston Martin,
Nissan GT-R
Bentley
Chrysler,
Jeep,
Dodge,
Ram,
etc.

....back to your regularly scheduled program.



Z
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 6s1802 on March 18, 2018, 11:09:41 AM
The steel fuel line that ran from the tank to the pump on my '63 406 Galaxie rusted on the inside giving me the same symptoms you describe. I would look at the entire fuel system.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on March 18, 2018, 11:46:15 AM
I believe Motorcraft 5-50 full synthetic is made by Conoco
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on March 18, 2018, 05:52:10 PM
I believe Motorcraft 5-50 full synthetic is made by Conoco

We say Conoco-Phillips in my neighborhood


Z
Bartlesville, Oklahoma, home of Phillips 66,
(& one block south from the Frank Phillips mansion)
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: papa scoops on March 18, 2018, 07:29:32 PM
probably just a cracked block. phred
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: SFM6S1348 on March 19, 2018, 11:37:28 AM
Some great advice here.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the coil. Probably unlikely in your case but in my experience failing coils can cause very weird, intermittent problems, especially when hot. Can't explain how using the choke would make things better unless the denser fuel charge helped with a weak spark?? Anyway, something to consider, especially if you're using one of those lousy repop yellow tops, and easy enough to check.

Dave

I had a coil problem one time and it sounded somewhat like what is described here, except the choke. Mine would run for various times short and long. After being towed home by AAA I discovered the power wire to the coil was not pushed all the way down. It was loose causing power and no power. Pushed it down in place and have not had any problem.

Les 6S1348

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on March 21, 2018, 08:38:20 PM
I went trough 6 of the “new” reproduction coils. Finally gave up and cleaned and repainted my old crusty, nasty, crudy, beat up looking coil. Hasn’t missed a beat since. Before that I changed the carburetor twice, 4 sets of points and condensers, 8 sets of plugs, set of wires, cap and rotor, two sets of intake gaskets, check, compression, leak down, camshaft.
Car would run good one day, bad the next, fiddle with the crab, ran great, drive it 20 minutes, starting surging, popping back through the carb, running rough.
When I first put the car back on the road it wouldn’t start, the new coil was bad. I can’t belive how many of these coils I went through before going back to my old coil. May not be concours, but it never has failed
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bob Gaines on March 21, 2018, 10:31:51 PM
I went trough 6 of the “new” reproduction coils. Finally gave up and cleaned and repainted my old crusty, nasty, crudy, beat up looking coil. Hasn’t missed a beat since. Before that I changed the carburetor twice, 4 sets of points and condensers, 8 sets of plugs, set of wires, cap and rotor, two sets of intake gaskets, check, compression, leak down, camshaft.
Car would run good one day, bad the next, fiddle with the crab, ran great, drive it 20 minutes, starting surging, popping back through the carb, running rough.
When I first put the car back on the road it wouldn’t start, the new coil was bad. I can’t belive how many of these coils I went through before going back to my old coil. Maynoy be concours,but it never has failed
I keep yellow top coils repainted and restamped for FOMOCO or Autolite date coded stamps for just such instances. 
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 22, 2018, 02:09:21 AM
I went trough 6 of the “new” reproduction coils. Finally gave up and cleaned and repainted my old crusty, nasty, crudy, beat up looking coil. Hasn’t missed a beat since. Before that I changed the carburetor twice, 4 sets of points and condensers, 8 sets of plugs, set of wires, cap and rotor, two sets of intake gaskets, check, compression, leak down, camshaft.
Car would run good one day, bad the next, fiddle with the crab, ran great, drive it 20 minutes, starting surging, popping back through the carb, running rough.
When I first put the car back on the road it wouldn’t start, the new coil was bad. I can’t belive how many of these coils I went through before going back to my old coil. Maynoy be concours, but it never has failed

Wow. That’s amazing. How am I supposed to get this stuff figured out when wizards like you guys swap so much stuff like it’s just another day.

I was pretty good with cars growing up with a car guy dad who I worshiped and always had me at his side. I remember when I was 18 on my way to Mazatlan Mexico in my 65 Ford Econolice. I started coughing right as I almost summiteers the Grapevine on HWY 5. I diagnosed it as a coil failure ad hitch hiked to a Ford dealer purchasedca coil and hitched back. Installed the coil and on I went.

 But I specialized at painting cars from 21 on then discovered college at 27 with all those pretty young girls everywhere. Good God was that not lost on me. I showed as much hospitality as possible to them and still got into Cal Berkeley. Wow, I never looked back until I was done with law school.

Now I open the hood of my GT350, pull the air cleaner off, and just stare at that beautiful engine. I don’t want to fuck it up and I don’t want to turn it over to someone else to do whatever they might do with my nice car when I leave it at their shop. What a conundrum.

I need a really good mechanic I can trust here in the San Francisco area.

There’s a couple guys but looking at the yelp photos, I just don’t know.

Does anyone have an ideas of a great shop I can entrust my car to in San Francisco or San
Jose, Fremont, or near by Palo Alto? Maybe I should bite the bullet and look somewhere else in the state or out of state. I hear there is an expert in San Diego.

Thanks guys for. Any ideas.

Mark
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: deathsled on March 22, 2018, 08:01:43 AM
Replace the coil yourself as was suggested and see what happens. I had a similar problem and bought a new coil and the problem went away. I also replaced the little module in the Oertronix distributor.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on March 22, 2018, 10:31:38 AM

Does anyone have an ideas of a great shop I can entrust my car to in San Francisco or San
Jose, Fremont, or near by Palo Alto? Maybe I should bite the bullet and look somewhere else in the state or out of state. I hear there is an expert in San Diego.

Thanks guys for. Any ideas.

Mark

    Mostly Mustangs in Oakland is owned by Jack Schroll and is an excellent place to use . Jack is a long time SAAC member and former owner of 6S001. He can make your car run like it should.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Jimbc123 on March 23, 2018, 11:39:15 AM
Sent you a PM on a Bay Area mechanic. Good luck.

Jim
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Doug C on March 23, 2018, 02:05:35 PM
Tinface, please keep us posted when you have a resolution and you car is running correct.  Good luck
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: gt350hr on March 23, 2018, 02:54:18 PM
  Jack would have had it fixed by now. 8)
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: FL SAAC on March 23, 2018, 05:27:27 PM

Wow. That’s amazing. How am I supposed to get this stuff figured out when wizards like you guys swap so much stuff like it’s just another day.

I was pretty good with cars growing up with a car guy dad who I worshiped and always had me at his side. I remember when I was 18 on my way to Mazatlan Mexico in my 65 Ford Econolice. I started coughing right as I almost summiteers the Grapevine on HWY 5. I diagnosed it as a coil failure ad hitch hiked to a Ford dealer purchasedca coil and hitched back. Installed the coil and on I went.

 But I specialized at painting cars from 21 on then discovered college at 27 with all those pretty young girls everywhere. Good God was that not lost on me. I showed as much hospitality as possible to them and still got into Cal Berkeley. Wow, I never looked back until I was done with law school.

Now I open the hood of my GT350, pull the air cleaner off, and just stare at that beautiful engine. I don’t want to fuck it up and I don’t want to turn it over to someone else to do whatever they might do with my nice car when I leave it at their shop. What a conundrum.

I need a really good mechanic I can trust here in the San Francisco area.

There’s a couple guys but looking at the yelp photos, I just don’t know.

Does anyone have an ideas of a great shop I can entrust my car to in San Francisco or San
Jose, Fremont, or near by Palo Alto? Maybe I should bite the bullet and look somewhere else in the state or out of state. I hear there is an expert in San Diego.

Thanks guys for. Any ideas.

Mark

Dear Mark,

First and foremost, most of our time machines are close to or over 50 years old.

 Looking at all the reccomendations made on a vehicle that is not  available physically, they are hitting the nail right on the head. It's lack of fuel or ignition.

Fuel, look at or test ;

All fuel lines from tank all the way up to the carb.

Look at the rubber lines first, then look at the metal lines for cracks or pin holes. This could cause air being sucked in and cause surging or loss of power.

Fuel pump going bad, will cause surging or loss of power.  Rebuild or replace.

Carburetor, rebuild or replace.

Ignition, look at or test;

Coil, distributor internals , wiring and are all the grounds in place

These are relatively simple machines, but it is very challenging to diagnose through a forum via posts or emails

Best wishes
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on March 23, 2018, 06:03:37 PM
+1
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few mil
Post by: Tinface on March 24, 2018, 04:04:18 AM
UPDATE:

03/24/2018 update on 6S2148 sputtering stalling issue:

To each of you kind, funny and amazingly gifted Shelby gentleman—I wanted to update you on how things have progressed with 6S2148’s issues as regards;steve to your help.

Like my dad would say “son, I earn $1.00 to hit this thing with a hammer; but I earn $49.00 to know when and where and how hard to hit it.” RIP Dad (Earl Samson 04/28/1932 to 09/28/1995)

—I studied each of the posts that you each made.

—I reread them, considered them, and reread them, again and again.

—I opened the hood, stared and the engine, closed the hood.

—Opened my Snap On tool box. Opened the drawers. Closed them.

I wanted to take the car to a mechanic but I didn’t want to entrust my car to someone I don’t really know. So it began:

I stated with the easy stuff:
—I checked the little hose at the gas tank for age: fine—looks new—wasn’t potentially restricting the gas.I traced the metal line from the tank hose to the front looking for kinks-it is fine.

—I then pulled the air cleaner off, and and decided to clean out the filter as suggested: interestingly—the larger nut on the carborator was loose—finger tight. Would that have caused this issue?

—I removed the filter from the carb and blew it out using my mouth instead of the compressor (I didn’t want to plug it in). Some dark looking viscous gas came out and went on thief loot before I could really evaluate it. So I blew through it several times and found it clear—very  clear.

—Then I reinstalled in on the car using white pipe tape on the fittings to make sure they were air tight.

The result: I filled it up with greasy gas again. Because the fuel gauge is not working, I wanted to make sure I had a full tank of freaks get gas.

—Around town there were no sputters, no dying. All okay.

Had the weather not looked like rain, and the clock not indicating Bay Area freeway parking lots instead of free flowing lanes of traffic—I would have taken her for a nice 65 m p h drive to see if those issues have been resolved, or not.

I am going to drive it on the freeway tomorrow— weather permitting—to see if the fuel filter, lose fuel filter-in-let-nut, or perhaps both, were contributing to, or causing in sum, the, problem.



I also am planing to install a fuel filter before the fuel pump as suggested. That will hopefully lengthen the longevity of the fuel pump.

I’ll save all the thank you until I make sure I’m not sitting off a road by the Bay, ” watching the tide toll away”...
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: FL SAAC on March 24, 2018, 09:19:56 AM
Mark,
that's the spirit, I have a non factory big metal gas filter just before my carbs. Once a year no matter how many mikes, it gets replaced on all our cars. I know it's not correct but it traps the majority of STUFF before it becomes a problem. Try to find non ethanol fuel and if you can't purchase non ethanol fuel, purchase any brand ethanol stabilizer.
Again wishing you great success
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on March 24, 2018, 05:24:47 PM
Mark,
that's the spirit, I have a non factory big metal gas filter just before my carbs. Once a year no matter how many mikes, it gets replaced on all our cars. I know it's not correct but it traps the majority of STUFF before it becomes a problem. Try to find non ethanol fuel and if you can't purchase non ethanol fuel, purchase any brand ethanol stabilizer.
Again wishing you great success

Wow. That’s a big help. Thank you for that. I’ll be looking for nonethenol gas or the stabilizer. And I might consider larger fuel filter.

Mark
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: mark p on March 24, 2018, 08:12:28 PM
FWIW, we don't have non-ethanol stations near home... but for ALL "antique" cars it seems like a fuel treatment/stabilizer is the way to go. I put it in every tank.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Don Johnston on March 24, 2018, 11:49:31 PM
Luckily I have Non-E gas station a mile from my home.  There are usually near any major marina or recreational dock facility for boaters.  This site might help:
https://www.pure-gas.org/

 8)
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: FL SAAC on March 25, 2018, 09:21:51 AM
Luckily I have Non-E gas station a mile from my home.  There are usually near any major marina or recreational dock facility for boaters.  This site might help:
https://www.pure-gas.org/

 8)

this website is a great source
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: FL SAAC on March 25, 2018, 09:44:36 AM
unsightly to some but highly effective
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on March 25, 2018, 11:12:59 AM
Luckily I have Non-E gas station a mile from my home.  There are usually near any major marina or recreational dock facility for boaters.  This site might help:
https://www.pure-gas.org/

 8)

this website is a great source

The station closest to me charges $1 per gallon extra to have non-ethanol gas.

Yes, I pay it.

The whole ethanol fuel game is corrupt from the federal government down.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Don Johnston on March 25, 2018, 03:03:30 PM
Agreed.  I save my alcohol mixing for me when I am out of the car and not driving.  In the fuel in just messes up my classics and separates into a part water mix after a few weeks.  Stabilizer helps but for the extra cost, non-e at the pump is easier.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on March 25, 2018, 05:41:25 PM
Mark,
that's the spirit, I have a non factory big metal gas filter just before my carbs. Once a year no matter how many mikes, it gets replaced on all our cars. I know it's not correct but it traps the majority of STUFF before it becomes a problem. Try to find non ethanol fuel and if you can't purchase non ethanol fuel, purchase any brand ethanol stabilizer.
Again wishing you great success

Wow. That’s a big help. Thank you for that. I’ll be looking for off the gas or the stabilizer. And I might consider larger fuel filter.

Mark


The best fuel filter is the integrated one that comes on a '65 fuel pump. On non-concours cars I routinely put a '65 style pump on all '66's just for that fuel filter. It's much larger than the aftermarket ones, and does a superior job. The filter element is easily replaced without having to take off the pump.

regarding the ethanol vs. pure  gas discussion, I've worked on hundreds of vintage cars and vintage motorcycles since the introduction of the 10% ethanol, and have observed the following to be completely  accurate:

1)    when driven regularly, the use of the 10% blend has zero adverse effects. none. zip. nada. But if you let it sit in the fuel system for over 6 to 8 weeks, it begins to separate into the individual components. That is when it becomes an issue.  Since many people do not go thru a tankful of fuel in a 6 to 8 week time frame, they are seeing the usual typically described ethanol blend maladies of carb deposits, old compound rubber deteriorating, and poor performance.

2)  on the other hand, those engines that see  regular and frequent use, none of these adverse effects are ever present.  Many people use a vintage car or motorcycle as a daily driver, or at least a daily escape valve, and they are never having any issues with the 10% blended fuel.  These observations are based on what I have seen in the southwest USA.  If the ethanol blend is more than 10% elsewhere, then there may be a different outcome. But I suspect the outcome would still be one dependent on how often a tank of fuel is consumed.

3)  if your car is going to be stored for any length of time, there is no substitute for a complete draining of the fuel system.  It's not that difficult, and will save you a lot of grief when spring rolls around. Having a short checklist of things to do when mothballing a vehicle is part and parcel of vintage ownership.  A little preventative maintenance will extend the life of the car dramatically.

Using an additive to stabilize the fuel, like StaBil, etc. is better than doing nothing, but your car deserves a more comprehensive approach, imho.

Here are a couple of photos that can illustrate   better than a 1000 words what happens when ANY type of fuel is left too long in a carburetor.

In these photos the motorcycle, a Yamaha XS-1100,  had pure gasoline in it, and was parked for period of not less than 5 years but no more than 7 years while the owner was a guest of the Federal government. The carburetor assembly shown has been flipped, so the left carb in the photo is really the right side carb, etc.  The owner parked it in a shed, and leaned it over to the right side against a wall.  All the gas ran out of the higher left 2 carbs and they are as clean as a whistle.  On the other hand, the two lower carbs on the right side were full of gas until it evaporated, leaving behind the mess you see here. The deposits not only plugged up every orifice , but also corroded them to the point that the jets were useless even when cleaned up.

Granted, this is an extreme example. But goes to the point, that even pure gasoline has limits as to how long you can expect it to last, it's not just an ethanol issue. I've seen numerous carburetor issues that were related to old pure gas after just a few months.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Tinface on April 07, 2018, 02:18:58 AM
Tinface, please keep us posted when you have a resolution and you car is running correct.  Good luck

Fellow Members—I want to thank each one of you again, for reaching out to me during my crisis.

I don’t have to explain why it sucks to purchase a car for a bunch of money then Discover it has intermittent problems mechanical. Especially so when you discover same while taking your best friend for that first ride together after years of telling and it dies on the side of the busy 6 lane freeway.

I ended up replacing
—-the coil,
— the fuel pump,
——checking
———the gas cap vent (fine)
———checked the gas lines front to back (no kinks)
———pressure checked the tank to see if the gas flowed through the line tank to carb,
———checked the gas to make sure it wasn’t cloudy or had water in it (clear).
———cleaned the fuel filter (dirty viscous liquid blew out)
———checked the wires to the distributor (securely plugged in)
———checked the coil wire (THE COIL WIRE WAS NOT PLUGGED DOWN IN THE COIL AND WAS SHOWING SIGNS OF ARCING) plugged the coil wire securely into the coil.
————Checked the distributor pulled cap (Electronic ignition replacement for points).

The upshot:
We drove the car after all that and no more stalling out. Lots of other \little things wrong with it became apparent
—(Temp guage show almost at hot when the temp is 170,
—the oil guage doesn’t work,
—the amp guage doesn’t work,
—the emergency brake doesn’t work Handel is broken off),
— radio doesn’t work,
—no battery hold down,
—no spare wheel hold down,
—wrong gear ration (411) so speedo is wrong.

Conclusion— I have to continue to sort out—but over all—I am hopeful that it is a solid car a solid investment grade car. Only time will tell now. I’m counting on it.

Thank you all very much,

Tinface
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on April 07, 2018, 05:36:00 AM
You are finding out firsthand that classic cars that don't get driven much are going to need a lot of sorting out to become reliable. The last "pretty" car I bought needed 2 years of constant sorting to become reliable.

Classic cars are not for the faint of heart, not for everybody, not for anyone who gets discouraged and  gives up. Not for whiners

Welcome to the few, the brave, and the crazy,

Z

PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: NC TRACKRAT on April 07, 2018, 07:46:06 AM
"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: corbins on April 07, 2018, 10:38:06 AM
"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.

+1- in fact , I would pull the tank, pressure wash it inside thoroughly and add a hidden , replaceable in-line filter ahead of the carb filter. And I always run some fuel system cleaner during the season. Glad you're getting it sorted out !
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on April 07, 2018, 12:46:20 PM
"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.

+1- in fact , I would pull the tank, pressure wash it inside thoroughly and add a hidden , replaceable in-line filter ahead of the carb filter. And I always run some fuel system cleaner during the season. Glad you're getting it sorted out !

that's exactly what I was meaning, but neglected to provide the crucial details, thanks corbins !!! 

when you have the tank off, and the fuel sending unit OUT, check it for rust on the inside. If you find ANY, just get a new tank. The Canadian made tanks are inexpensive and well made. With just a little care , one of those will last you 25 years, at least.  Once a  fuel tank starts rusting inside, it never will stop. And the liner kits you can buy to coat the inside of a tank are no picnic either. Eventually they WILL de-laminate and then you will REALLY have some fuel delivery issues to contend with.  I've seen numerous motorcycles and vintage cars with issues from coated tanks. Despite what the manufacturers of those products promise, they are a time bomb waiting to ruin your day, and your fuel system.

Z

Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on April 07, 2018, 06:35:46 PM
Who is the source for Canadian tanks?

I assumed they are all galvanized now. No?

I thought someone sold perfect replicas too.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Ldouble619 on April 07, 2018, 06:52:46 PM
Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

 https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on April 07, 2018, 07:15:20 PM
Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

 https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: Bob Gaines on April 07, 2018, 07:26:01 PM
Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

 https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?
The tanks were galvanized originally . So are the reproduction tanks . I have never seen or heard of a reproduction gas tank that is made in bare untreated steel. It would flash rust if it was.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on April 07, 2018, 07:30:42 PM
Who is the source for Canadian tanks?

I assumed they are all galvanized now. No?

I thought someone sold perfect replicas too.

NPD has a wide selection. 

Z
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: zray on April 07, 2018, 07:34:31 PM
Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

 https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?
The tanks were galvanized originally . So are the reproduction tanks . I have never seen or heard of a reproduction gas tank that is made in bare untreated steel. It would flash rust if it was.

NPD is selling tanks that aren't galvanized, but they're not bare steel either. They have tanks (not this one) they are calling concours, don't know what that means to them.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/tank_assy_fuel_repro-106633-1.html

"......Mustang TANK ASSY, FUEL, REPRO, 16 GALLON, W/O DRAIN PLUG, INCL LOCK RING AND SEAL, Made in Canada from rust resistant Ni-terne coated steel, Spectra Premium Industries fuel tanks are made in Canada from U.S. Steels Ni-Terne material, The annealed cold-rolled steel sheet is first processed to apply a thin flash coating of electrodeposited nickel and then its given a hot-dip tin alloy coating, The nickel base coat gives Ni-Terne steel an extra measure of corrosion resistance compared to U.S. Steels regular Terne steel sheet and also compared to traditional galvanizing, which isn't readily available anymore, The Ni-Terne coating protects both interior and exterior surfaces of the fuel tank from surface corrosion, These tanks are precision engineered and tooled to OE specs and all models are validated for fit, form and function before they are released into the market, Manufactured under ISO 9001/ TS 16949 quality system, 100% tested, Transit tested packaging to protect the part and the finish so you receive a great looking part! Three year manufacturer warranty, For use with gasoline containing up to 20% Ethanol (E20), C5ZZ-9002-A, C5ZZ-9002-B, C5ZZ-9002-C, C5ZZ-9002-D....."


Z
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: NC TRACKRAT on April 07, 2018, 07:47:43 PM
While we're at it, don't forget to keep your tank topped up with ETHANOL-Free premium fuel.  The less air in a tank, the less room for moisture which condensates and then settles to the bottom of the tank.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: 2112 on April 08, 2018, 12:04:22 AM

NPD is selling tanks that aren't galvanized, but they're not bare steel either. They have tanks (not this one) they are calling concours, don't know what that means to them.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/tank_assy_fuel_repro-106633-1.html

"......Mustang TANK ASSY, FUEL, REPRO, 16 GALLON, W/O DRAIN PLUG, INCL LOCK RING AND SEAL, Made in Canada from rust resistant Ni-terne coated steel, Spectra Premium Industries fuel tanks are made in Canada from U.S. Steels Ni-Terne material, The annealed cold-rolled steel sheet is first processed to apply a thin flash coating of electrodeposited nickel and then its given a hot-dip tin alloy coating, The nickel base coat gives Ni-Terne steel an extra measure of corrosion resistance compared to U.S. Steels regular Terne steel sheet and also compared to traditional galvanizing, which isn't readily available anymore, The Ni-Terne coating protects both interior and exterior surfaces of the fuel tank from surface corrosion, These tanks are precision engineered and tooled to OE specs and all models are validated for fit, form and function before they are released into the market, Manufactured under ISO 9001/ TS 16949 quality system, 100% tested, Transit tested packaging to protect the part and the finish so you receive a great looking part! Three year manufacturer warranty, For use with gasoline containing up to 20% Ethanol (E20), C5ZZ-9002-A, C5ZZ-9002-B, C5ZZ-9002-C, C5ZZ-9002-D....."


Z

 Aren't there at least 2 capacities for the 65-'73 model run? I thought there was a 19 Gallon tank too?
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: KR Convertible on April 08, 2018, 11:28:49 AM
The OE tanks were 16 gallons.  They make replacement tanks, that have a raised top that hold more (22 gallons I think).  They require
a shorter fill tube.  If you're not worried about originality, you could go that way or even order a stainless tank.  I have one in my
current project. It's much more shiny than the original, but will never rust.
Title: Re: Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.
Post by: gt350t on April 08, 2018, 03:01:24 PM
I had a similar problem and it ended up being the Ignition Condenser.