My 513 dated 3259 carburetor is acting up. Car doesn't start if I don't pour gas directly into the carb and it just runs until
that fuel is used and then it stops. Tested the pump and it pumps fuel as well as tested if fuel is in the bowls and it is.
It seems like the accelerator lever is stuck as it doesn't move when opening the throttles. just compress the spring.
What can be wrong? Also, does anybody have the Holley part# for the diaphragm that works with ethanol mixed gas.
Texas Swede
Quote from: texas swede on August 09, 2021, 06:35:55 PM
My 513 dated 3259 carburetor is acting up. Car doesn't start if I don't pour gas directly into the carb and it just runs until
that fuel is used and then it stops. Tested the pump and it pumps fuel as well as tested if fuel is in the bowls and it is.
It seems like the accelerator lever is stuck as it doesn't move when opening the throttles. just compress the spring.
What can be wrong? Also, does anybody have the Holley part# for the diaphragm that works with ethanol mixed gas.
Texas Swede
I can think of all kinds of problems. Diagnosing in little text boxes is a hit or miss game.
I use Holley® 135-10, 30 cc diaphragms but sounds like the carburetor needs to come off and get a complete functional inspection.
Agreed
I'll bet rubber on accelerator pump has dried out and stiff. Happened to me.
Jon
I sent my 3259 to Drew to go through. Was leaking, ran like a dog, bucked and burped and was hard to start. He took it apart and when I got it back, all I had to adjust was the curb idle. Now it runs like a banshee, no bucking or burping and not one leak. Drew knows these carbs and does outstanding work on expensive eye candy, like these.
Martin
Hi Bo,
Have you removed the primary bowl to check the float and needle/seat? Even if the accelerator pump is shot the car should still idle if the bowl is filling properly.
Dave
I loosened up the passenger side lower fuel bowl screw and gas came out so I believe the
bowl is full. I will take it apart and see what's wrong with both the needle and seat as well as the accelerator
and fix both. The car ran very well last fall but when I started it 2 weeks ago by pouring gas into the carb and took it for a spin
it hesitated (almost stalled) when going from the idle system to the main system by pressing the gas pedal.
Thanks for all your help guys. I'll keep you posted.
Texas Swede
Just checked the Daytona Parts 3259 rebuild kit I have, kit #442, it has an etoh resistant accelerator pump with part number 64-1625A on the bag.
Hi again,
Just ordered the acc. pump diaphragm 135-10 from Summit.
Thanks again
Texas Swede
Also take a very close look at the accel pump discharge check valve under nozzle attaching screw. Best to remove carb to prevent parts from falling into engine,but can be done on engine with care. I have numerous Holley equipped cars and after sitting for a few months and dried fuel at that point has caused many of my issues. Just trying to help.
Common the check needle get stuck as mentioned above.
Will create the exact symptom.
I have to drop some oil on the needle during assembly or the cleaned parts like to flash rust and get stuck.
Procedure:
-Remove carb
-remove pump nozzle
-try to use a small pointy object like a scribe or small screwdriver to wiggle check needle back and forth.
-try to push fuel through (use care as needle can shoot out)
-spray carb cleaner in nozzle hole, try again to dislodge
-if that doesn't work, remove bowl and metering block. Use air to dislodge
-if that doesn't work, pack grease into pump channel and force a pin gauge or back of a drill into hole
-if that doesn't work, drill check needle, if bit is sharp it should spin out.
The last two options really stink btw.
Thanks,
My friend Rusty suggested the same thing as regards the check needle.
Will look at that as well.
Texas Swede
Possibly stuck needle in the seat. I had one do that. Happens when they sit dry for too long.
Also for folks in Texas. Buc-ee's sells ethanol free fuel! I'm close to Denton where there is a new Buc-ee's. I fill my 6 gallon can and use it in the mowers and the old cars.
My friend Rusty and I rebuilt my carburetor. The accelerator pump diaphragm had dried up so it was replaced by a
Holley 135-10. There didn't appear any fuel in the secondary bowl due to a stuck needle. Yesterday I siphoned all
the old fuel in the tank and took it to our hazardous material company run by several cities in the Dallas area.
Now I have another problem. can't remove the fuel filter bowl to clean it and replace the filter. Don't want the NOS bowl
destroyed and after my health issues the last few years I am to weak to be able to get it loose by arm strength.
Any suggestions how to remove the bowl?
On Friday I am going to Denton to buy ethanol free fuel. Hope the car will running as it used to after that.
Thanks for your help,
Texas Swede
Bo, get Paul over there to help. Or I can come by in a couple of weeks and get that fuel pump bowl off. Call me if you want some help. And I told you so about that fuel lol! I buy VP in 5 gallon cans at my local Aline Auto Parts store. They get VP Vintage leaded fuel for me. It is 95 octane and is very stable.
Quote from: texas swede on August 18, 2021, 10:24:01 PM
My friend Rusty and I rebuilt my carburetor. The accelerator pump diaphragm had dried up so it was replaced by a
Holley 135-10. There didn't appear any fuel in the secondary bowl due to a stuck needle. Yesterday I siphoned all
the old fuel in the tank and took it to our hazardous material company run by several cities in the Dallas area.
Now I have another problem. can't remove the fuel filter bowl to clean it and replace the filter. Don't want the NOS bowl
destroyed and after my health issues the last few years I am to weak to be able to get it loose by arm strength.
Any suggestions how to remove the bowl?
On Friday I am going to Denton to buy ethanol free fuel. Hope the car will running as it used to after that.
Thanks for your help,
Texas Swede
I use a tool that looks like the oil filter tool that has a metal band that tightens around the filter and once tight the tightening arm acts like a lever to tighten or un tighten . The fuel filter can/bowl tool is the same thing only smaller diameter band. I think I got it about ten years ago .Sorry but I don't remember particulars about where I got it. I would be surprise if you couldn't find one on amazon. I use electrical tape to wrap around filter so the band grabs that so that it will not scratch the paint on the filter .
Thanks Bob,
Will investigate if an oil filter remover for a motorcycle may work as it should be smaller.
Thanks Rick for your offer to help me. Will try to fix it myself first. It's a drag getting old and weak.
Texas Swede
Quote from: texas swede on August 19, 2021, 07:23:45 AM
Thanks Bob,
Will investigate if an oil filter remover for a motorcycle may work as it should be smaller.
Thanks Rick for your offer to help me. Will try to fix it myself first. It's a drag getting old and weak.
Texas Swede
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Strap-Wrench-5-Ribbed/dp/B012RPKM8A/ref=asc_df_B012RPKM8A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475715995816&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6159320082739061247&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023256&hvtargid=pla-1089843792398&psc=1
This could work.
Good idea on motorcycle tools.
I picked up the smallest oil filter strap tool I could find at an auto parts store. It's still a bit large for the Honda filter. I have some thick (1/8 inch) neoprene rubber cut to a strip and I can place that inside the strap and work that onto the filter I'm dealing with. The rubber also has the advantage of not marring the item I'm getting unstuck, and it grabs better than the metal strap. Just an idea.
On my 64 Galaxie, which had the same style canister filter, I used one of these which worked great:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/170281249855 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/170281249855)
Thanks guys,
Bought a wrench with a rubber band at Amazon. Hopefully this will work.
Texas Swede
Hey Bo, let me know how it goes. David has done a couple for me over the years. We can always pull it and see if he could help.
Sometimes an old leather belt wrapped around the housing and the a filter wrench will work.
Joe
How long did it sit? New gas is terrible at gumming up quick. If the accelerator pump isn't working the little ball (79) under the nozzle (78) is probably stuck. You can remove the nozzle and fill the hole with carb cleaner and wait. I had one stuck so bad one time I ended up taking the carb apart and using compressed air after if soaked for awhile.
(https://i.imgur.com/o5ut4imm.jpg)
This the type of tool I used to get a stubborn fuel filter can loose. It is made for the smaller diameter filters. you can put electrical tape, inner tube rubber, etc. to insulate between the strap and the filter so as to keep from marring the surface . https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57020-Filter-Swivel-Wrench/dp/B003969PKS/ref=asc_df_B003969PKS/
Thanks guys,
The car now runs very well but it doesn't start without tuning the starter over for a long time.
Emptied the old gas and filled it up with 92 Octane non-alcohol fuel. Also used Sea Foam
additive. Throttle response is great.
Well, there is always something.
Texas Swede
Quote from: texas swede on October 06, 2021, 11:32:21 AM
Thanks guys,
The car now runs very well but it doesn't start without tuning the starter over for a long time.
Emptied the old gas and filled it up with 92 Octane non-alcohol fuel. Also used Sea Foam
additive. Throttle response is great.
Well, there is always something.
Texas Swede
Try two pumps of the gas peddle when starting if sitting over night . That is all that it should take in a perfect world. More pumps initially and it is typically harder to start.
This may be too late but Snap On sells a Blue Point wrench with a rubber strap that I used to get mine apart the other day. No sweat and no damage to the bowl.
2 different sizes for $4.99
https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
I have used these for lots of things including using the large one to get my pool pump cover off.
Roy