68 302. Went to time it and the darn thing is frozen in there. Hold down removed I cannot get it to even budge. Thoughts? Heat? WD 40 is on there now. Thanks
I had one that got stuck like that in a J code 302. I took the vacuum advance off, put Aerocroil on it and then used a strap wrench. It came loose no problem.
thanks... we will see.........
Get some PB Blaster instead of the WD-40. Spray that on the joint and let it sit overnight. Then the strap wrench is a great idea.
That engine more then others for some strange reason seems to be susceptible to oil getting on the o-ring/distributor gasket and drying to the point that it becomes like an adhesive.
I've seen the o-ring dry up and crumble after this so I'd recommend replacing it and putting a little grease on it. Perhaps anti-seeze would work on it but I honestly have never tried it there before. Necessity is the mother of invention.
I've seen it where you need to use the claw end of a flat bar to pry it up to get it out as well. So don't be surprised if you need to go to that extent to get it out.
I said Aerocroil, not WD-40. Far different product. Way better than PB Blaster.
(https://3ekc5u2wt71h19t25m10gt7h-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/themes/kroil/assets/img/bottle-original-128.png)
https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-original-penetrant-best-penetrating-oil/ (https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-original-penetrant-best-penetrating-oil/)
Quote from: rhjanes on September 01, 2021, 11:32:58 PM
Get some PB Blaster instead of the WD-40. Spray that on the joint and let it sit overnight. Then the strap wrench is a great idea.
+1 for the KROIL. It's amazing stuff.
thanks.. WD aint showing me much so far! :)
WD is good for things like drying out a distributor that gets soaked with water. It's not great as a penetrant or a lubricant.
Quote from: hurlbird on September 02, 2021, 09:39:13 AM
thanks.. WD aint showing me much so far! :)
+2 Kroil will get the job done. A little smelly but nothing better in my book.
When I took my distributor out in 1996 it had not been loosened since aprox. 1973 and had over 120,000 miles in that position. It took an acetylene torch to get it loose. Recently we also recently used a tool called "Bolt Buster" ( an induction heater) to loosen nuts, bolts, distributors, engine block sending units and fasteners We were able to free up a frozen top frame on a 1965 Galaxie that had been sitting outside for 9 years uncovered. It took a lot of PB Blaster, Kroll and even WD40, but the heat seemed to get it loose the best. Be careful prying on the distributor as they tend to break at just above the manifold level if the pressure is too great and with the aluminum construction its easy to apply too much pressure.
They are also right about the O Ring, it gets rock hard and seizes to the block, extremely had to break loose and even then its doesn't move well.
This is an item you need to take you time with to avoid damaging or destroying the distributor. The strap wrench idea seems to be the best for attempting to move it
Good Luck
Kroil looks interesting. I tried a few auto supplies near me, none have it or it's a few days to get it. Seafoam Deep Creep is also a decent penetrating oil.
Steve McDonas makes a comment I would like to second and that is heat is a big help. I recently had some bolts snap when removing an old water pump. I soaked them for days with no luck. I finally pulled out the Wagner Heat gun and heated the area around the bolt (but not the bolt itself) and they finally broke free. Try heating the intake manifold around the distributor and then immediately try to break free using the strap wrench.
Jeff
Tried heat. Soaking now. Will try strap.. thanks
Speaking from experience, patience is a virtue. Don't push your luck. It will come free in due time.
finally!!! Heat and the strap wrench. thanks all!!!
I believe this is a perfect example of "dissimilar metals corrosion" and could have been minimized with the careful use of one of the many corrosion preventative compounds on the distributor contact flange and o-ring upon installation or regular maintenance. It's amazing what a bit of preventative maintenance can do.
PL
Quote from: JWH on September 02, 2021, 05:10:14 PM
Steve McDonas makes a comment I would like to second and that is heat is a big help. I recently had some bolts snap when removing an old water pump. I soaked them for days with no luck. I finally pulled out the Wagner Heat gun and heated the area around the bolt (but not the bolt itself) and they finally broke free. Try heating the intake manifold around the distributor and then immediately try to break free using the strap wrench.
Jeff
I also have had similar situations with "stuck" fasteners and components, some on vehicles not nearly as old as 1960's cars.
I have found carefully using heat (often propane torch), applying penetrant material (even have used bee's wax), and doing this multiple cycles, the heat cycle helps the penetrating material to wick into the seized joint more each cycle.
Then when attempting to turn, the torque required is much lower because the joint has the penetrating material modifying the "friction" in the joint.
If you've ever tried to replace front shocks on an early VW beetle, you've likely learned this lesson ;D
jim p