Found a good example of what happens when you skip the plastic bushings. Luckily the other connecting points were less worn and ok to re-assemble with bushings.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/397-311021203542.jpeg)
Looking for advice on replacing this.
-Is C7ZZ-7521-E the correct part number for the upper clutch rod on a 67 small block and GT350? Found the part number on the Coral Snake site for 68 GT350, but saw a post somewhere else that 67 and 68 might be different.
-I can't find any 67 small block upper clutch rods used or NOS, but see tons of postings for 69/70 rods that look the same, often labelled C9ZZ-7521-C. Both are 12.5in between pivot points. Would these work? Look appropriate for my car? I'm wondering if it is possible since there is no number on the part that every time someone finds one to sell they assume it is the C9 version?
The Assembly and Shop manuals list the part 7A516, which hasn't lead me anywhere.
Any advice appreciated. I just don't want the shiny repros. My car is #2246, May 1 Ford date. Not a concours show car, but I do my best to get it right whenever I touch something.
I got this form this forum, (might have been posted by Bob G) I added the text, others will chime-in. Hope this helps...
I have had good luck welding up the worn area and then grinding and filing.
Joe
Thanks JD and Joe. If the answer is all small block upper clutch rods 67-70 are the same, then I'm all set. I just haven't been able to find someone explicitly say that searching across this site, cmf and vmf.
Thought about welding. Successfully weld and ground the shoe pads on the backing plates, but have less confidence in my ability to end up with decent roundness in this case.
Quote from: T-Bone68 on November 01, 2021, 11:11:05 AM
Thanks JD and Joe. If the answer is all small block upper clutch rods 67-70 are the same, then I'm all set. I just haven't been able to find someone explicitly say that searching across this site, cmf and vmf.
Thought about welding. Successfully weld and ground the shoe pads on the backing plates, but have less confidence in my ability to end up with decent roundness in this case.
Yes they will interchange. I am not sure why the different engineering number but there had to be something regardless of how minor the change.
Quote from: SFM6S on November 01, 2021, 08:36:06 AM
I have had good luck welding up the worn area and then grinding and filing.
Joe
I've had good luck welding up the worn end of the clutch rod also. Make sure you examine the clutch equalizer "Z" Bar as well since the the clutch rod will not be the only part to wear like that. The "Z" bar can also be welded and re-drilled. The plastic bushing only lasts so long.
Thanks Bob and George! Answers my question. Z-bar hole fits the bushing tight, so doesn't seem too worn. Might need straightening, though. I'll see when I install the pedal set if everything is lining up.
I have the top rod in photo, always been there and works correctly, I've looked it over and it appears that the jog in one end gives the proper routing,
When I looked it up in MPC , I got a C7 number too
What can others report what they have on their 350 cars?
Quote from: rcgt350 on November 02, 2021, 01:31:26 AM
I have the top rod in photo, always been there and works correctly, I've looked it over and it appears that the jog in one end gives the proper routing,
When I looked it up in MPC , I got a C7 number too
What can others report what they have on their 350 cars?
67 -70 small block has the same geometry regardless of year in this area and so does 67-70 big block regardless of year. To make things more confusing you can get ether rod to work regardless of if bigblock or smallblock in a pinch. It is just that one configuration is meant for big block and the other meant for smallblock by the engineers at Ford.
I spoke with owner of 0024 today and his is also the big block version, original to his car, never been changed, same as 0031
My 67 small block had the top (big block) style when purchased. I changed it to the small block version and found the geometry to be much better, The big block style doesn't sit centered in the firewall hole through the full travel and can lead to rubbing and squeaking. The engine side of the rods enter on opposite sides of the equalizer bar which causes the big block rod to be off center to the firewall hole and tends to push at more of an angle. Small block style easier to install around brake booster and seems to have a smoother action.
The C9 version sold by vendors is same as original 67 small block in shape and length.
I found some brass bushings on EBay to replace the plastic ones and if you don't mind deviating a little from originality they are a great substitute for the cheesy plastic. The guy on EBay describes these as for a Bronco but they fit nicely.
If you can't find an original rod the aftermarket can of course be refinished (light phosphate or bare metal) to look right.
Not sure how or if this plays into any of this but there seems to be two versions of clutch pedal arms, one that has an "extra" tab and one that doesn't. Red lines show the two parts on the one style (left side image, extra tab to the left of the primary arm).
See attached...anyone else noticed this or have some knowledge of them?
I have a 65 clutch pedal right in front of me and it does not have the extra welded on piece like the 67. In JDs pic that's the red bar on the left.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on November 03, 2021, 08:53:25 AM
I found some brass bushings on EBay to replace the plastic ones and if you don't mind deviating a little from originality they are a great substitute for the cheesy plastic. The guy on EBay describes these as for a Bronco but they fit nicely.
Thank you for this by the way. Tried them and the clutch pedal feels real smooth. Used at both the pedal and z-bar ends. The thicker shoulder makes it a little tight to get the pin in the other side, especially when your z-bar is slightly bent. That's a small, reversible deviation I'm willing to make :)
JB Custom Fabrication
https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/early-bronco-clutch-pushrod-bushings?_pos=1&_sid=94f0a5868&_ss=r
You can also use a brass (bronze) bushing on the bottom push rod joint to the equalizer. Yeah works smoother and lasts a long time.
Have detailed previously. Clutch linkage wear is a universal problem with all, early Mustangs. During my build about 35 years ago was able to squirrel away all new, OEM parts. Since, have assembled a linkage made from stainless shaft tapped with RH & LH threads for matching, stainless rod ends. Can precisely adjust like a turn buckle. Pedal smoothness and effort reduction is a huge improvement. Now do it on all my classic Fords.