My Cobra has the usual clear bra "spats" protection on the front of the rear fenders. I'm considering having the front nose at least protected as well, so has anyone had their Cobra covered with XPEL, 3M or a similar product? Local installers to my area are reticent to install clear bra, I don't want a pre cut kit most offer. I would prefer a custom applied one that minimizes seams and I want the edges rolled.
I'd like to hear others experiences with a particular product line (XPEL, 3M, etc) and what issues did you experience with the install or over all longevity of the clear bra.
For them to custom install that on your Cobra, with all those Curves going in every direction, they will have to install a huge sheet of it and use a Razor Blade and cut it ON the Car. You might look into Plasti-dip in the Spray Can and do it yourself.
I've used PlastiDip for temporary protection on a track car, but for long term use I'd prefer a film. The higher end film installers do cut the film on the car, but lift the edges away from the paint and then cut it. Or they use a knifeless tape underneath the film to make their cut lines. Thank you tesgt350 for your thoughts.
Knife less tape demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfGGdESJDSs
Quote from: CSX 4133 on May 03, 2018, 08:36:45 AM
I've used PlastiDip for temporary protection on a track car, but for long term use I'd prefer a film. The higher end film installers do cut the film on the car, but lift the edges away from the paint and then cut it. Or they use a knifeless tape underneath the film to make their cut lines. Thank you tesgt350 for your thoughts.
Knife less tape demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfGGdESJDSs
I like that Knifeless Tape. I wonder if it will work with other Automotive Vinyl's.
Do research on the Ford GT forum. They all use film, XPEL being very popular.
I'll check the GT forum, the local XPEL installer to me in as much refused to even try to do my Cobra. They were going to use a precut kit which I told them I did not want as it left too many exposed edges.
Your best option is to have an installer do it the way they do it. No, you do not want the edges rolled. That is not the right way to do clear shield. We don't lift the edges to cut, we just do it without cutting through the paint. Any other way is for someone who can't 'cut it' doing clear bras. I have a guy who spends all day doing nothing but clear shields. They are one of the hardest processes to do correctly in automotive vinyl. Pre-Cut kits are horrible. The best thing to do is custom cut it on the car. If you insist on having the edges rolled then you either won't find anyone who will touch your car, or they won't give you any guarantee on the work.
Doesn't someone make a spray on clear protectant?
3M makes a spray on protectant, it's a temporary type application for short term use.
Quote from: Andrew@MagMustangs on May 03, 2018, 01:32:01 PM
Your best option is to have an installer do it the way they do it. No, you do not want the edges rolled. That is not the right way to do clear shield. We don't lift the edges to cut, we just do it without cutting through the paint. Any other way is for someone who can't 'cut it' doing clear bras. I have a guy who spends all day doing nothing but clear shields. They are one of the hardest processes to do correctly in automotive vinyl. Pre-Cut kits are horrible. The best thing to do is custom cut it on the car. If you insist on having the edges rolled then you either won't find anyone who will touch your car, or they won't give you any guarantee on the work.
I may not have described the process clearly. By rolling the edge, I mean rather than ending the material at the fenders edge you roll the material into the inner fender lip. This protects the inner fender lip and also hides the finished edge. By allowing for tucking the material you don't cut the material against a painted surface, you use the panel seams to cut or hold the material off the surface while cutting. The extra material is then trimmed to leave enough to form around the the edges of a panel. It takes for time, but the results are worth it.
Quote from: CSX 4133 on May 03, 2018, 03:51:07 PM
Quote from: Andrew@MagMustangs on May 03, 2018, 01:32:01 PM
Your best option is to have an installer do it the way they do it. No, you do not want the edges rolled. That is not the right way to do clear shield. We don't lift the edges to cut, we just do it without cutting through the paint. Any other way is for someone who can't 'cut it' doing clear bras. I have a guy who spends all day doing nothing but clear shields. They are one of the hardest processes to do correctly in automotive vinyl. Pre-Cut kits are horrible. The best thing to do is custom cut it on the car. If you insist on having the edges rolled then you either won't find anyone who will touch your car, or they won't give you any guarantee on the work.
I may not have described the process clearly. By rolling the edge, I mean rather than ending the material at the fenders edge you roll the material into the inner fender lip. This protects the inner fender lip and also hides the finished edge. By allowing for tucking the material you don't cut the material against a painted surface, you use the panel seams to cut or hold the material off the surface while cutting. The extra material is then trimmed to leave enough to form around the the edges of a panel. It takes for time, but the results are worth it.
I knew exactly what you meant. that is why I said what I said. What you are describing is not a common practice in clear shields, and so you will have a hard time finding someone to do that for you, IMHO.
I had the XPEL product applied (professionally) to my non-Ford daily driver — entire front clip, around rear wheel wells, on side mirrors and headlights, etc. — and have been quite pleased with the results. Really handles minor environmental debris, nearly invisible if installed correctly, and it has more than paid for itself by protecting the paint from minor abrasions. It's good stuff and I would recommend it for higher-end vehicles.
After googling CSX 4133 and seeing that it is a black car, You MUST use 3M brand. You don't have any other choice due to the color of your car if you want it to look even halfway decent.
Actually I'm leaning toward one of the STEK brand products. Better quality, warranty and appearance. The only issue will be I'll have to trailer the car to an authorized installer, which might be Esoteric Detailing in Ohio.
The big question I have is there a problem with color fade due to the film installed. Was just warned by a co-worker.
I've had XPEL on two dark blue cars for three years now with no issues. Prepping the surface, stripping the wax/sealant off and then doing a full paint correction was required before the film was applied. The film added glossiness to the cars if anything, my two cents, and the clarity of the film hasn't changed. I was warned to not use a cleaner wax on the film as it could micro scratch the film. Other than that I've used various waxes.sealants on it with no issues.
I think the problem might be that the paint UNDER the Film doesn't fade as fast as the Paint NOT covered by the Film. I have installed a LOT of Graphics on many of my Cars, I will design a complete package, install it and a few months later design something new and when I remove the first set of Graphics you can easily see a difference in the Paint and how it has faded all over BUT where the Graphics were. I started using Graphics for my Designs because it is cheaper than painting the designs on the Cars PLUS, I can get wild with my designs now.
I've had it installed on a few of my cars.....good results...Agree with Andrew best not to use a precut Kit. The last car I had it installed was done with an entire sheet over the entire hood....I hated seeing the line when its installed 1/4 of the way up the hood. A bit nerve racking as the cut it to fit....but this is where is pays to have someone who knows what they are doing.....As far as rolling the edges, it can be done, but sometimes it looses its adherence......