After searching for a long time without much success i decided to make up my own paxton gauges correct for a 66 gt-350, the only problem i had was sourcing out a 10 psi pressure gauge with the correct needle sweep to use a a base for the reproduction, so gauge is a 15 psi instead of 10, also couldnt reproduce the 2 screws as the was things behind the faceplate,
Since members here are shelby mustang i hope to get some input and comments good or bad
(http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/crxnug/20180109_211632.jpg)
(http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/crxnug/20180109_211703.jpg)
(http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/crxnug/20180109_212245.jpg)
Beautiful job on the gauges. My only question is didn't the supercharger gauge do both vacuum and pressure?
jim
They look very nice . Since you wanted input I am not sure if you are going to be selling them but if you are then I hope they will not be very expensive. A 500.00 plus gauge will be hard to sell unless closer to original IMO. The 15 pound gauge would be a non starter for me. It is a non original aspect that stands out. You probably already know this but for those that may not understand why it is hard to find a 10 pound gauge the older super charger systems had trouble building 10 pound which is why the old gauges only went that far. Today's superchargers commonly build over 10 pound which is probably why the 15 pound gauges where a alternative. They do look good just wish you could get them closer.Best of luck with them.
, the hardest thing was finding very detailed images of original gauges and with no original ones to look at closely it was somewhat tough , once they were finished i did find a 10 psi gauge that i will use in the future, any input on what can be done to make them perfect would be much appreciated.
I can only imagine how much trouble it was to get this far. Here are pics of Paxton gauges.
You guys probably already know this, but here's what the originals looked like.
Jamesfee,. looks like you were correct...
Not sure what year these were made or if these are Shelby correct but I got them with an SN-60 Paxton setup about 20 years ago in Houston.
I swapped a 66 LeMans Holley and cash for it.
Oh BTW Crxnug, that is a beautiful set of gauges... Great job having them reproduced.
(FYI: a sticker on the back says Marsh Instruments Skokie, IL)
I know it's a bit off topic, but:
Can 10 psi be squeezed out of these old units with an improved impeller?
Anyone running the 4100? I've got a 600 and a 670 (1.19) I'm considering...
Phil
Check with one of the special guru on this topic, Craig Conley at Paradise Wheels. Usually these units are putting out 6 to 7 PSI.
Don't know who's making gauges for you but they can be recalibrated. A 15# gauge can be made into 10#
We have a few original sets.
We ourselves thought about replicating them, as 3000. a set is pretty good money, and they sell for that money too.
My question, we could never find a set of gauges that were correct>>> the hole for the light socket was the deal killer.
Can you show the back of your gauges so it can be seen how the are illuminated?
With respect,
John
BTW, regular old McCulloch gauges are very correct, but lightening bolt script, no Paxton script>> and a few other incidentals are wrong.
Let alone, they are as expensive to buy also. Set on ebay at this time with extra's, $ 11,000
Looks good. Nice job on the gauges
The correct Paxton gauges for the Shelby cars are the ones that Bob pictured in a previous response (that is a pic of my gauges). These gauges were not lit from the backside and did not have a socket provision for a bulb. The original fuel pressure gauge does have the "Paxton" script and the 3 red birds (not lightening bolts). The blower pressure gauge did not have the "PAXTON" script, but it did have the 3 red birds. The needles and numbers on the face of the gauges actually glowed in the dark, which they likely used radium paint to achieve. I believe this style Paxton gauge hit the market in or around '65/'66. There have been a few different versions produced since the mid '60's version was introduced. Also, this may have been the last version that actually had fuel running through the line of the fuel gauge to measure pressure.
Earlier gauges (supplied to Studebaker) would have had the McCulloch and Studebaker script on the face. I'll try to post some more pics of the correct original Paxton gauges for the Shelby cars.
No luck in posting pics...I get a server full response.
George
Quote from: George Schalk on April 27, 2018, 04:39:48 PM
"......... Also, this may have been the last version that actually had fuel running through the line of the fuel gauge to measure pressure......"
George
You can use an isolator with these early gauges to avoid the fuel in the cockpit safety issues, just as you can with the late modern mechanical fuel pressure gauges.
Z
Are the Paxton/Shelby gauges recalibrated and if so and available for purchase, what is the price. I am interested in purchasing for 6S2045.
johnz66@outlook.com
Phil,
The most "I" ever made was 13 psi back in the '70's. I had all kinds of problems keeping the drive elements from failing. A bunch of extra heat was generated and I was cooking the oil which led to ball bearing failure until I went to B&M trick shift and added and a "snake oil" called Alaskan brand engine oil coolant. The double spring pressure plate helped to make the boost along with a special impeller and small blower pulley. That combination was able to "live" for about 6 months of weekly drag racing and very limited street use. Not worth the effort these days. Despite the suggestions of Vince granetelli to go to a "direct oiling" ( engine oil pressure fed) I stuck to the standard self contained ATF oiling.
Randy
a combination of the synthetic B&M Trick Shift and a fluid cooler via the special dipstick, will enable the ball drive Paxton's to be indefinitely long-lived, regardless of the output with the VR-4 impeller or other enhancements.
I put 85,000 miles on my last Paxton equipped GT-350. At the end of which, there was no measurable wear on the blower unit
Z
There is a very specialized "electronic vapor deposition" coating that could be applied to the drive elements and eliminate failure. This coating , known in the trades as "DLC" ( diamond like carbon) has been used on wrist pins , solid lifters , valves , rocker arm shafts , and other "problem areas". It leaves a black coating on steel that is virtually wear proof with minimal lubrication. If I were still running a Paxton , I would do this modification.
Randy
Quote from: gt350hr on October 19, 2018, 11:54:51 AM
There is a very specialized "electronic vapor deposition" coating that could be applied to the drive elements and eliminate failure. This coating , known in the trades as "DLC" ( diamond like carbon) has been used on wrist pins , solid lifters , valves , rocker arm shafts , and other "problem areas". It leaves a black coating on steel that is virtually wear proof with minimal lubrication. If I were still running a Paxton , I would do this modification.
Randy
^^^^^^^^. +1
Z