My 65 has the clamps for the jack bungee cord riveted directly to the floor. I have seen pictures of restored cars that show the clamps riveted through the trunk mat. What is considered correct? On a related note is the number on the bottom of the mat a date code? Can any one decipher "55 C922"?
Thanks,
Paul
Quote from: PaulD on June 14, 2018, 10:36:57 AM
My 65 has the clamps for the jack bungee cord riveted directly to the floor. I have seen pictures of restored cars that show the clamps riveted through the trunk mat. What is considered correct? On a related note is the number on the bottom of the mat a date code? Can any one decipher "55 C922"?
Thanks,
Paul
Paul,
Most all originals that I have seen, including 5S162, have them riveted on top of the trunk mat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8a1JfhQr3YJo4t3Q2UlDV4rV1IBJn-ew7XxCxtSxzgudrKIAseglmHJCgFGzeuykDII7TM_YIsvfmrUOKCXFzwYY3lVL02tAp12fn_hcBASSS4gbQY3_YmFBt1Zg_MEoOweMvdlN7DkdwO41umtoNPzjGH7If5_GK7tVqALZLjSWhcUTLHk8jaa2sL8GM07DMIH4X5RamcsPZifWdvGM96cFk7eetjrY0agEgFUYRYM-Tu_QOCHTJXbAidZ5XHa6pxbHfQNjQ_Dmv3yNbdCYK19Tv6r6LktyBH2TsUC78TD0D8GZO_AZOyY5Wr844qSZSf-YAtifTiwnph5qu9yOK65iRXkVZOnbHXzjpmt6SqT4Rvp_JGc5KqACyqpcyZHj458fOcgFz66qAB2StV5gED1_ToudW2bNEK-xpMob-bb73qrBPVYTX5TKdNG1-y_W6PeRHGdqrKozsVXdSWNAd0-yCC1TmKVVY7briP-7C8xW5Vv6IM13RoJTccWTw9brGOQuGUtXG_2QRWJfo9LxMZF_HsnimKUSP-c1CDijlaVXvUf4SYAIR6bcVZFpXEX8LMN-zD9VyFahTCMY4yX6WVTNfiepdCAbV8EX8GSp=w600)
Quote from: Brant on June 14, 2018, 01:30:09 PM
Paul,
Most all originals that I have seen, including 5S162, have them riveted on top of the trunk mat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8a1JfhQr3YJo4t3Q2UlDV4rV1IBJn-ew7XxCxtSxzgudrKIAseglmHJCgFGzeuykDII7TM_YIsvfmrUOKCXFzwYY3lVL02tAp12fn_hcBASSS4gbQY3_YmFBt1Zg_MEoOweMvdlN7DkdwO41umtoNPzjGH7If5_GK7tVqALZLjSWhcUTLHk8jaa2sL8GM07DMIH4X5RamcsPZifWdvGM96cFk7eetjrY0agEgFUYRYM-Tu_QOCHTJXbAidZ5XHa6pxbHfQNjQ_Dmv3yNbdCYK19Tv6r6LktyBH2TsUC78TD0D8GZO_AZOyY5Wr844qSZSf-YAtifTiwnph5qu9yOK65iRXkVZOnbHXzjpmt6SqT4Rvp_JGc5KqACyqpcyZHj458fOcgFz66qAB2StV5gED1_ToudW2bNEK-xpMob-bb73qrBPVYTX5TKdNG1-y_W6PeRHGdqrKozsVXdSWNAd0-yCC1TmKVVY7briP-7C8xW5Vv6IM13RoJTccWTw9brGOQuGUtXG_2QRWJfo9LxMZF_HsnimKUSP-c1CDijlaVXvUf4SYAIR6bcVZFpXEX8LMN-zD9VyFahTCMY4yX6WVTNfiepdCAbV8EX8GSp=w600)
+1. riveted through trunk mat is most typical.
Does one know where I can buy the bungee or the clamps?
The clamps are the same ones used for the front to rear battery cable attaching to the chassis. Brant should have them.
Quote from: caspian65 on June 18, 2018, 11:25:23 PM
The clamps are the same ones used for the front to rear battery cable attaching to the chassis. Brant should have them.
So I'm assuming there are 2? One on the top, one on the bottom? How far apart should they be and any idea of the cord?
Look closely at the picture. You can see both ends of the bungee cord. There is only one clamp. Seems I recall a discussion on the old forum where there were a few cars with two clamps but most only had one.
p.s.: We ascertained that the early cars had no clamp/s.
So it was pointed out by Howard Pardee that the early Cars, had trunk mounted batteries and therefore no clamp as it would have gotten in the way! Duh! Therefore the jack and handle should be in the wheel well?
Quote from: sfm5s081 on June 26, 2018, 03:55:37 PM
So it was pointed out by Howard Pardee that the early Cars, had trunk mounted batteries and therefore no clamp as it would have gotten in the way! Duh! Therefore the jack and handle should be in the wheel well?
The clamps mounted in one of the typical locations with the jack stowed do not interfere with a trunk mount battery. (http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/66-260618161640.jpeg)
Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 26, 2018, 04:12:23 PM
Quote from: sfm5s081 on June 26, 2018, 03:55:37 PM
So it was pointed out by Howard Pardee that the early Cars, had trunk mounted batteries and therefore no clamp as it would have gotten in the way! Duh! Therefore the jack and handle should be in the wheel well?
The clamps mounted in one of the typical locations with the jack stowed do not interfere with a trunk mount battery.
Just to be clear I agree some early rear battery cars did not have the clips riveted to the floor to hold the jack and the handle/handles. I don't believe all were done that way without .
Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 26, 2018, 04:25:24 PM
Just to be clear I agree some early rear battery cars did not have the clips riveted to the floor to hold the jack and the handle/handles. I don't believe all were done that way without .
+1 :)
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on June 19, 2018, 05:13:10 PM
Look closely at the picture. You can see both ends of the bungee cord. There is only one clamp. Seems I recall a discussion on the old forum where there were a few cars with two clamps but most only had one.
p.s.: We ascertained that the early cars had no clamp/s.
Stan,
No, there are two.
O.K. Brant...Then what's going on in the picture? I clearly see two bungee cord ends around the one clamp. Since we don't have the benefit of going back to the old forum, we only have our memories. I know mine is failing but I do seem to remember the discussion that some had only one clamp and some had two.
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on June 28, 2018, 07:47:16 AM
O.K. Brant...Then what's going on in the picture? I clearly see two bungee cord ends around the one clamp. Since we don't have the benefit of going back to the old forum, we only have our memories. I know mine is failing but I do seem to remember the discussion that some had only one clamp and some had two.
Look at reply #8 . The clamp goes around and holds the bungee cord. The cord wraps around the jack and is secured to the clamp farthest forward. Brant's picture appears to be the same.
Almost there....
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-GT350-Battery-Cable-Bungee-Cord-Clamp-P482363.aspx
Any indea when you might have some more Brant? I'll take a set for sure.
Quote from: sfm5s081 on July 16, 2018, 02:03:03 PM
Almost there....
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-GT350-Battery-Cable-Bungee-Cord-Clamp-P482363.aspx
Any indea when you might have some more Brant? I'll take a set for sure.
Try Jim at Shelby Parts. They are typically the same as SA added rear battery cable clamps.
What size are they? I have seen these at the hardware store.
Quote from: sfm5s081 on July 16, 2018, 02:03:03 PM
Almost there....
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-GT350-Battery-Cable-Bungee-Cord-Clamp-P482363.aspx
Any indea when you might have some more Brant? I'll take a set for sure.
I plan to work on this project, but I don't have a date yet.
Here is the one in my car, 5S275. Original clips and bungee cord. I restored the clips and
dipped them.
Texas Swede
Texas Suede... Awesome pict! You are the hero of this thread!
Quote from: sfm5s081 on July 29, 2018, 11:08:59 PM
Texas Suede... Awesome pict! You are the hero of this thread!
He is as smooth as suede! Champion 8)
Thanks guys. One observation I have made is that the original clips have slightly thinner metal
than the repos I have seen.
Texas Swede
so where does the handle go?
Two handles if you have Cragers and the jack are held down by the bungee cord.
I don't dare to stretch the original more than 50 year old bungee cord and taking the
risk to destroy it.
Texas Swede
Quote from: sfm5s081 on July 30, 2018, 06:01:28 PM
so where does the handle go?
The Ford lug wrench slides into the base of the jack .It is illustrated although not well in the jacking instruction sticker. Disregard the way the bungee is wrapped . The picture is to show how the lug wrench fits into the jack. The Crager lug wrench is ether loose of held done by the bungee. See pictures
Looka like these clamps have been unavailable for quite some time. Can someone provide some accurate dimensions so that I can fabricate my own? I'd be glad to make a few extras once I get them figured out. Would it be sacrilege to make them from stainless strap and media blast them to simulate the original zinc finish?
I have them made already $25 each
I've made some. It's a rather tedious job. Requires finding flat stock and shearing strips to the proper width, then figuring out the required total length of each bracket, then use a bending fixture to make the correct size "hoop", clamping together to drill the holes at the same time so that they'll match up when compressed to apply the pop rivet, then dipping the "hoop" portion in black "Plasti-Dip" or similar black rubber coating. Approximate dimensions of original brackets: .056" thick steel; 1.7" overall length; .625" width; .625 length of top flat portion; 3/16" dia. holes drilled approx. .325 from ends of flat portions. If you're not a masochist, buy 'em from Jim or Brant. :)
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on January 29, 2020, 05:31:45 PM
I've made some. It's a rather tedious job. Requires finding flat stock and shearing strips to the proper width, then figuring out the required total length of each bracket, then use a bending fixture to make the correct size "hoop", clamping together to drill the holes at the same time so that they'll match up when compressed to apply the pop rivet, then dipping the "hoop" portion in black "Plasti-Dip" or similar black rubber coating. Approximate dimensions of original brackets: .056" thick steel; 1.7" overall length; .625" width; .625 length of top flat portion; 3/16" dia. holes drilled approx. .325 from ends of flat portions. If you're not a masochist, buy 'em from Jim or Brant. :)
Kudos on your effort . 8)
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on January 29, 2020, 05:31:45 PM
I've made some. It's a rather tedious job. Requires finding flat stock and shearing strips to the proper width, then figuring out the required total length of each bracket, then use a bending fixture to make the correct size "hoop", clamping together to drill the holes at the same time so that they'll match up when compressed to apply the pop rivet, then dipping the "hoop" portion in black "Plasti-Dip" or similar black rubber coating. Approximate dimensions of original brackets: .056" thick steel; 1.7" overall length; .625" width; .625 length of top flat portion; 3/16" dia. holes drilled approx. .325 from ends of flat portions. If you're not a masochist, buy 'em from Jim or Brant. :)
That's good info. I might give it a try just for the satisfaction of doing it myself. Thanks.
May i ask here for the groomet going around the positive cable , i ll need to replace the one in the front on 241 , Any source for it please ?
Quote from: NC TRACKRAT on January 29, 2020, 05:31:45 PM
I've made some. It's a rather tedious job. Requires finding flat stock and shearing strips to the proper width, then figuring out the required total length of each bracket, then use a bending fixture to make the correct size "hoop", clamping together to drill the holes at the same time so that they'll match up when compressed to apply the pop rivet, then dipping the "hoop" portion in black "Plasti-Dip" or similar black rubber coating. Approximate dimensions of original brackets: .056" thick steel; 1.7" overall length; .625" width; .625 length of top flat portion; 3/16" dia. holes drilled approx. .325 from ends of flat portions. If you're not a masochist, buy 'em from Jim or Brant. :)
Thanks for the dimensions. It took about 2 hours to make a dozen and I spent about $15 including a new drill bit and enough plastic dip to make a thousand of these things so maybe masochist is a little strong. I found that a 4" long strip was just right for each bracket.
Chris,
Many years ago (25) I found a bag with 3 grommets at a Dallas Car Show/Swap Meet. I will check if I can find
the 3rd one in my garage. If so, I send it to you.
Texas Swede
Quote from: chris NOS on January 30, 2020, 06:44:27 AM
May i ask here for the groomet going around the positive cable , i ll need to replace the one in the front on 241 , Any source for it please ?
Im having more made for my trunk mount kits
Chris,
I found the 3rd grommet and took some pictures and measurements. Experts like Bob and Jim can
check if these are like originals. As I said I bought them in a small plastic bag with handwritten
3 pcs of Battery Cable grommets for 65 Shelby and I still have the bag. Believe it was Max Kotlowski
who sold them and if my memory serves me right he had bought them from a guy in CA who had bought a lot of
parts from Shelby.
The measurements are: (estimated)
Diameter: 1.4768" or 37.5 millimeter.
Thickness: 0,1968" or 5 millimeter
Hole diameter: 0.63" or 16 millimeter. They fit in a hole 1" in diameter front and back.
Texas Swede
These seem to be selling quite well! I know I'm ordering some
Quote from: texas swede on February 07, 2020, 12:33:01 PM
Chris,
I found the 3rd grommet and took some pictures and measurements. Experts like Bob and Jim can
check if these are like originals. As I said I bought them in a small plastic bag with handwritten
3 pcs of Battery Cable grommets for 65 Shelby and I still have the bag. Believe it was Max Kotlowski
who sold them and if my memory serves me right he had bought them from a guy in CA who had bought a lot of
parts from Shelby.
The measurements are: (estimated)
Diameter: 1.4768" or 37.5 millimeter.
Thickness: 0,1968" or 5 millimeter
Hole diameter: 0.63" or 16 millimeter. They fit in a hole 1" in diameter front and back.
Texas Swede
Hi , thank you , i took a picture o the one on 5S070 , it looks original to the car , really dry plastic , looks like yours !
i m sending you an email ;)
Got my cable clamps from Jim! They look awesome!
Thanks!