I have a question about a sand cast air cleaner base on a GT500. I was wondering, is the base flat on the bottom with just the elbow or does it have the ribs on it with part number like the aluminum one? Thanks for any help...Greg.
Quote from: Fast Fords on January 28, 2018, 12:28:48 PM
I have a question about a sand cast air cleaner base on a GT500. I was wondering, is the base flat on the bottom with just the elbow or does it have the ribs on it with part number like the aluminum one? Thanks for any help...Greg.
The early later sand cast base is thicker so it does not need the strengthening ribs like the thinner die cast base. The sand cast bottom is smooth relatively speaking. More important for identification however is the elbow in the front. The original type used on the GT500 had a steel elbow added later and is crimped in . It will swivel with a little persistence. The elbow is not cast in place as part of the base.Those are repros.
Thanks for the reply Bob.
The elbow on the one I have appears to be threaded into the base and it does feel heavier. Is that correct? Thanks...Greg.
anyone that can post pics of an original base?
Sand cast air cleaner base.
Edge view.
My base has an almost shiny appearance to it. it does have a part number, but I think it's missing the elbow. Do any of the factory bases have a "shine" to them?
I will post a pic when I am able.
Mike
Quote from: SFM5S159 on February 02, 2018, 04:44:44 PM
My base has an almost shiny appearance to it. it does have a part number, but I think it's missing the elbow. Do any of the factory bases have a "shine" to them?
I will post a pic when I am able.
Mike
The shiny could be the result of a previous restoration attempt. The shine more likely is a indication of a newer repro part. No elbow , sand cast elbow or added screw on, bolted on etc. elbow is the most visible and obvious "tell" for the sand cast base.
Here are two pics of my base and two pics of the top of the air cleaner I picked up. The top has curved leg on the R, the O appears wider than it is tall but I do not see any rectangle around COBRA and no casting circles on the bottom. The base has a nipple that is threaded in and appears to be reinforced where it comes through the base. What do you guys think,real or repro? Thanks....Greg.
Quote from: SFM5S159 on February 02, 2018, 04:44:44 PM
My base has an almost shiny appearance to it. it does have a part number, but I think it's missing the elbow. Do any of the factory bases have a "shine" to them?
I will post a pic when I am able.
Mike
Mike what is the part number? I have never seen a sand cast base with a part number. I have seen base plates with the elbow missing and just the hole before but those have always been the die cast ones . I have never seen a sand cast base where the elbow has been removed but i suppose it could happen. The shiny appearance bothers me. I have only seen that on newer repros.
Quote from: Fast Fords on February 02, 2018, 09:51:57 PM
Here are two pics of my base and two pics of the top of the air cleaner I picked up. The top has curved leg on the R, the O appears wider than it is tall but I do not see any rectangle around COBRA and no casting circles on the bottom. The base has a nipple that is threaded in and appears to be reinforced where it comes through the base. What do you guys think,real or repro? Thanks....Greg.
Sorry to report that it appears to be a repro mainly by the non original elbow.
Bob, could it be the elbow became loose and previos owner threaded in an elbow?
What about the top of the lid. Has curved leg and the correct looking O but is missing a couple of the other features? Thanks.
Most originals I have seen have the STRAIGHT leg R top and a curved 90 degree swedged nipple bottom, many have all types of nipples fabricated to work on the repros. Its almost impossible to replicate that original nipple that's why so many variations exist for the 67s.
I need a new elbow for mine. Does anyone make them?
The 66 and 67 R code Fairlanes shares the same air cleaner base with the 67 GT500. There are actually 2 types, one has a closed emissions and the other is open. If the car was bound for the West coast it had the closed emission with the elbow and the East coast did not.
Quote from: Greg on February 09, 2018, 08:49:46 AM
The 66 and 67 R code Fairlanes shares the same air cleaner base with the 67 GT500. There are actually 2 types, one has a closed emissions and the other is open. If the car was bound for the West coast it had the closed emission with the elbow and the East coast did not.
The 67 GT500's all used the elbow.
True but since the 427 and 428 cars were generally run harder than their small block cousins most all used the closed nipple system to prevent breathing noxious fumes and having oily residue all over your inner fender wells to clean up all the time. Weather your car came original with it or not its just a nice THING to have. :)
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2018, 09:25:42 AM
Quote from: Greg on February 09, 2018, 08:49:46 AM
The 66 and 67 R code Fairlanes shares the same air cleaner base with the 67 GT500. There are actually 2 types, one has a closed emissions and the other is open. If the car was bound for the West coast it had the closed emission with the elbow and the East coast did not.
The 67 GT500's all used the elbow.
+1 . Maybe 2 different on the Fairlane but not GT500. Just one type on the GT500. Even the GT500 with thermactor. It was connected to the oil fill tube on the intake in that case using a special oil fill tube.
Here are pics of what I have...
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143438.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143557.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143738.jpeg)
by the way what is the use of this elbow in front ? i see pcv hose connected to it but isn t on the intake that this hose goes to ?do i need to put a cap on it or let it opened ?? thx
Quote from: onelimegold on February 09, 2018, 06:20:54 PM
by the way what is the use of this elbow in front ? i see pcv hose connected to it but isn t on the intake that this hose goes to ?do i need to put a cap on it or let it opened ?? thx
Since it connects to the oil-fill tube, with a check valve, I would venture it is to create a small amount of crank case vacuum, which helps prevent foaming oil, but I think it was designed to capture excess fumes created by blow-by and suck them thru the combustion process.
Quote from: SFM5S159 on February 09, 2018, 02:39:54 PM
Here are pics of what I have...
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143438.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143557.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/480-090218143738.jpeg)
What you have is a repro top and a original base that someone has taken the crimped in sheet metal elbow out of. The elbow was routed by way of hose to the PCV valve on the standard set up from the factory . The thermactor system had a short hose going to the special for thermactor oil fill tube with a check valve in between. With that said if you are going to pleasure drive your car then on the standard set up instead of running the PCV valve hose to the elbow , you run the PCV valve hose to a hose fitting (brass like on GT350 PCV) fitted to the forward most plug on the C7ZX intake (of course pass side). This allows the PCV to work like it is supposed to. If you are concerned about looking the assemblyline way then run to the elbow on the air cleaner base. If not that concerned about assemblyline look and more concerned about function to run to the forward ported fitting. You choose. PS if not going to put a elbow back in and run to ported fitting then use a plug for the hole . A electrical box plug works well for this.
My base needs the tube also. Someone must make them somewhere?
Here is an original for a 66 R code Fairlane
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2018, 09:49:11 PM
My base needs the tube also. Someone must make them somewhere?
FYI the sand cast base elbow is a different shape then the the diecast base elbow pictured . The elbow is curved on the diecast base.
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2018, 09:49:11 PM
My base needs the tube also. Someone must make them somewhere?
Not every part for our cars is available but that is part of the enjoyment of the process of restoration. Had to make the last one I needed.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 09, 2018, 10:45:17 PM
FYI the sand cast base elbow is a different shape then the the diecast base elbow pictured . The elbow is curved on the diecast base.
Does this help?
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-100218033003.jpeg)
Well looks like I need to buy a bead roller and tubing bender. Should it be galvanized steel tubing?
Since I don't have one to copy, what od tubing is this thing?
I'm just enjoying the heck out of making these parts! Thanks for sharing Jeff! 8)
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 07:59:15 AM
Well looks like I need to buy a bead roller and tubing bender. Should it be galvanized steel tubing?
Since I don't have one to copy, what od tubing is this thing?
I'm just enjoying the heck out of making these parts! Thanks for sharing Jeff! 8)
Using the picture Jeff provided as a reference I would try and salvage one from a 68 or 69 smallblock Mustang air cleaner assembly ;) .
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 10, 2018, 12:17:47 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 07:59:15 AM
Well looks like I need to buy a bead roller and tubing bender. Should it be galvanized steel tubing?
Since I don't have one to copy, what od tubing is this thing?
I'm just enjoying the heck out of making these parts! Thanks for sharing Jeff! 8)
Using the picture Jeff provided as a reference I would try and salvage one from a 68 or 69 smallblock Mustang air cleaner assembly ;) .
I already tried that. I bought a regular air cleaner base.
What happens is the end that has to go through the casting base isn't long enough.
Remember that nipple was made to be just long enough for the sheet metal. The aluminum is at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest and if I remember correctly, is more then 3/8" thick at that point because of the cast in mounting boss.
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 12:56:24 PM
Remember that nipple was made to be just long enough for the sheet metal. The aluminum is at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest and if I remember correctly, is more then 3/8" thick at that point because of the cast in mounting boss.
Since it will not be seen from inside the air cleaner sure you can come up with a creative way to make it work (using one from a donor Mustang air cleaner)
Quote from: J_Speegle on February 10, 2018, 03:41:51 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 12:56:24 PM
Remember that nipple was made to be just long enough for the sheet metal. The aluminum is at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest and if I remember correctly, is more then 3/8" thick at that point because of the cast in mounting boss.
Since it will not be seen from inside the air cleaner sure you can come up with a creative way to make it work (using one from a donor Mustang air cleaner)
The way to make it work is to use an elbow that will fit and can be peened over like the original.
Dude! The regular mustang elbow doesn't work. Been there. Done that. ;D
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 05:52:56 PM
The way to make it work is to use an elbow that will fit and can be peened over like the original.
Dude! The regular mustang elbow doesn't work. Been there. Done that. ;D
Been there too but guess we have had different experiences and outcomes.
No problem with that. There are often many different routes to the same destination :)
Quote from: J_Speegle on February 10, 2018, 03:41:51 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 10, 2018, 12:56:24 PM
Remember that nipple was made to be just long enough for the sheet metal. The aluminum is at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest and if I remember correctly, is more then 3/8" thick at that point because of the cast in mounting boss.
Since it will not be seen from inside the air cleaner sure you can come up with a creative way to make it work (using one from a donor Mustang air cleaner)
+1 . Where there is a will there is a way. At the very least I known of people that have succeeded. The ones I have known about added a section to the elbow (past the expanded base of elbow) enough to go through the base and crimp over on the other side. I am not sure what process was used to solder ,weld,or brazed the section because It was already doctored up. I just saw the finished product during a impromptu to show and tell at a car show. The one I saw wasn't too pretty on the filter side of the base but that is not seen when installed. I supposed you can mandrel bend a new elbow like you said (regular tube bender will look different) . Best of luck with that approach. I may be wrong but I think that process will be even harder given the equipment needed etc. At least you have input so you can make a informed decision on how to proceed next .
Yes, thank you to all who responded.