Ok I was now searching for 3 days for the correct paint for the Mustang 67/68 Engine Bay and Undercarriage here are my questions
1. Does somebody has some pictures where you can see the underccarriage+engine bay painted concours for san jose and nj plant
2. what kind of black did they used in the factorys? was it a normal paint or did they used hardener etc. I read so many stuff about it what people use which is close to original but nobody talk about it really what the factory was using and what is the closest you can buy. Also for the red primer what was that and what will be the closest to buy now?
3. Why do I dont found a book, website etc. where somebody show its concours restoration on a Shelby 1967 or 67 Mustang there are so many secrets and a lot of people ask the same questions over and over again. I think a book or website with detailed pictures and content would be so lovely for all of us Shelby and Mustang Guys.
I have a 68 1/2 CJ, a 67 Fastback Shelby Clone and a 67 Fastback I want to build in the winter and I want to make them close to factory/ concours with some smaller mods, but all I can do in concours style will be concours so that why I´m asking here. I know a lot of things but not that much like a lot of you guys so your help is appreciated, maybe we can start a guide to concours or a good factory looking restoration that can be used by everyone in the future.
Thanks Kent
Maybe you are not looking in the right places? :D
In most cases, the factory used enamel paint. Many places either do not carry enamel or you cant legally spray it. Enamel has become "old technology" . Thats why you are seeing threads about modern paints that look like the original paints. Primer and painting techniques varied extensively from plant to plant and year to year. Thats why your not finding "one source". I think people that have studied this area ( some for decades) realize it would be an effort that is monumental. Most are "old school" and dont subscribe in the theory that just because someone wants something, you should it hand it to them.
Here is a guide for 1968 New Jersey cars: (a 1967 might be different)
http://www.thecoralsnake.com/PAINT.HTML
I have seen similar threads on other forums, for other years and plants.
Lets clarify one other item, "concours" is historically correct as built. There is no such thing as a concours clone or concours with modifications. Its a very specific definition. Its not just about quality of workmanship. In my opinion, one does not have a "concours" car until it has been recognized by concours judges in a national venue. For Shelbys that would be MidAmerica, SAAC, MCA and maybe a couple others.
Im not cracking on you, but I am a reforming concours judge and dont want others to be confused.
You will find a lot of information (correct info) here. To clarify a lot of sources are not correct ( I'm not referring to Pete :) ) and do not take into account the different build dates, assembly plants and running changes.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/
TOB
I imagine you are familiar with: www.Concoursmustang.com The SAACforum www.vintage-mustang.com
and you have the Osbourne assembly manuals. Add in theMustang Club of America judging sheets...per each car. One of the best restoration illustrations, information and photos is in the GT/CS registry but that book is limited in volume and costs $100 plus. It does not illustrate the San Jose built cars but it sure is close.
Also, there is no substitute for looking at correctly restored and even original cars. And, I'll say it, most Concours cars seem to be over restored these days.
Quote from: roddster on November 16, 2018, 09:39:33 AM
Also, there is no substitute for looking at correctly restored and even original cars. And, I'll say it, most Concours cars seem to be over restored these days.
Well, I can understand the desire not to leave so much sheetmetal completely bare like was done in the factory. Like up under the dash or rear quarters.
I dont want to built the mustangs to concours only thing I want to do is a correct build, restoring the original parts like it should be, painting the engine bay etc correct, because when I do it I want it right for me. I want to build the cars how I will like them pretty much orignal with some senseful mods and drive them,thats the same like Shelby did with the mustangs. I want to build classic mustangs with no summit, cjpony crap on them but yes I will upgrade the control arms, steering etc. but at the end they should have the correct finish also when they have ball bearings etc. I want to optimize the stock parts and give them a finish like they would be from factory. Maybe call it sleeper or stock looking modified mustang I dont know ;-) I only know I love the Mustangs and Shelby´s and a normal concours restoration makes no sense for me because I drive them a lot. So I want to make all the bodyworks, paint etc. really nice and yes in concours quality, also finish of the parts should be concours quality etc. but it will be modified at the end of the day but very nice and charming. I think you guys will love the results. The cars I´m doing the next 6 months are pretty much original except for the shelby clone and so I want to keep their soul. I hope you understand now what I mean.
Some great responses so far and there could be a ton more discussion on the subject as has been in the past
It seems fairly common to find people coming into this part of the "hobby" see the sharing of information and the discussions as the keeping or sharing of secrets since there is not a ton of easily accessible free information at their fingertips. This may be because the person asking the questions often sees or expects the answers to be "they were all " this way or that way, when (especially for 67) in real life the answer to just one question can be one of two to three different answers based on date the car was at the plant, how the car was equipped and the assembly plant. Change the assembly date a week or a month earlier or later and the answer may change. There have been a fair number of personal efforts over decades like Coralsnake's great site which focuses on mostly one plant during a specific time period and a handful of models but these take decades to assemble and grow there are not thousands of people who have access, the time or the knowledge to assemble them like there are in other fields. As one told me at one point " there are no government grants for this research".
This fact makes assembling any web site, book or other product is IMHO and my experience very difficult to produce with any accuracy. And at the moment it is shared or made public likely wrong or incorrect in some detail undiscovered when the publication/site was assembled.
Quote from: Kent on November 16, 2018, 05:16:24 AM
3. Why do I dont found a book, website etc. where somebody show its concours restoration on a Shelby 1967 or 67 Mustang there are so many secrets and a lot of people ask the same questions over and over again. I think a book or website with detailed pictures and content would be so lovely for all of us Shelby and Mustang Guys.
Like you (not a criticism just an observation) many think the best route is to look at restored examples but those that have been involved in showing understand that that route is full of issues. Each restoration is only as good as the restorer, his research and the available parts when the car was built, as well as the rules (if built to a judging standard) when the car was built. As knowledge increases, old understandings of what was correct get challenged and adjusted those restorations become dated.
And if pictures of individual restoration efforts are shared other owners or builders tend to copy exactly details shown without regards to the differences between the car being seen and their own car. On top of this it tends to produce exact carbon copies where originally they were not. Sites have assembled pictures of "restored" cars and shared hundreds of examples but just about every picture shown includes incorrect details so it can be a minefield for an owner since they likely don't know which detail is correct for their car and which isn't
As we say often. There is no easy button in restoration though a big check book (to pay someone else to research, build and detail) may be the next best choice for some ;)
Sorry for the winded response but we hope that by posting these responses it will help you and others who view it
We will continue to work to provide answers and assistance as best possible.
Quote from: Kent on November 16, 2018, 02:02:14 PM
I dont want to built the mustangs to concours only thing I want to do is a correct build, restoring the original parts like it should be, painting the engine bay etc correct, because when I do it I want it right for me. I want to build the cars how I will like them pretty much orignal with some senseful mods and drive them,thats the same like Shelby did with the mustangs. .............
Sounds like you looking to follow the original meaning of "resto-Mod"
Have a couple of similar cars and what allot of people choose to do with the cars though how far the modifications go can really affect IMHO and at a point not go well with the partial restored look but you car your choices. Just don't expect everyone to like or respect your choices ;)
I think some people also would say a shelby is a modded mustang and they would prefer a "normal" Fastback or coupe whatever, a resto-mod is a empty body with new parts from summit etc. What I want to do is to make a correct restoration or build with some upgrades on the original parts. I have a big stock of so many fomoco original parts from 67/68 and I love them all I think I know what the difference between scott drake and fomoco is and I love to take old original parts and to rebuild them also if the same part in new would cost me only 5$
Again I only want to build it right like factory did it and if it was enamel I will get here in germany. I found some sellers of enamel paint the only question is it a 1 component or 2 component paint so do I need hardener or was it really out of a big canister and sprayed on the cars.
Alkyd enamel paint is one component with reducer and takes forever to setup(air dry) or become what is referred to a 'tack free'. That is why assembly line used "bake ovens".
I started painting just as acrylic enamel paint was appearing so I only sprayed with enamel for a few years.
No plural component paint from the factory in the sixties.
Chris
Thank you all for the nice answers, that help me a lot. And you cant buy that paint anymore in the usa? Here I can buy enamel polyurethan paint with hardener and reducer and mix it so that would be good? Or was it not a pu enamel paint what Ford used was it acrylic enamel?
Quote from: Kent on November 16, 2018, 05:36:38 PM
Thank you all for the nice answers, that help me a lot. And you cant buy that paint anymore in the usa? Here I can buy enamel polyurethan paint with hardener and reducer and mix it so that would be good? Or was it not a pu enamel paint what Ford used was it acrylic enamel?
Polyurethane enamel was mainly used for fleet, trucks and buses. Ford used acrylic enamel on Mustangs.
Chris
Quote from: Kent on November 16, 2018, 04:41:42 PM
Again I only want to build it right like factory did it and if it was enamel I will get here in germany. I found some sellers of enamel paint the only question is it a 1 component or 2 component paint so do I need hardener or was it really out of a big canister and sprayed on the cars.
Single stage from a large holder run to a different spray guns positioned at different location in the first section of the assembly process. Originally baked but don't think you want to build a booth for that. You might want to consider a hardener made for the paint I would
Oh for the drying process I have a booth here and everything I need I only want to be sure to have the right paint, I think I need to mix a little bit and paint some metal and then hold it on a original engine bay from a 67/68 mustang here. What paint are you guys using for your restorations to get it concours?
Was it now acrylic or alkyd enamel? Because I read both in this thread and its a difference between both.
Quote from: Kent on November 21, 2018, 05:50:07 PM
.......... What paint are you guys using for your restorations to get it concours?
Last couple of jobs I've used Hot Rod black. It's a little softer than some other choices. Single stage with a hardener but touches up very well if need be
Pretty restrictive here locally for what we can legally buy and apply
I think this paint thing will drive me crazy so was it now acrylic enamel or alkyd enamel? Becuase there are both answers here in the thread and we know there is a difference between acryl and alkyd.
Jeff, in reply #15 you state Hot Rod black. Which manufacturer are you referring to?
Thanks
Quote from: mustmore on November 21, 2018, 07:29:42 PM
Jeff, in reply #15 you state Hot Rod black. Which manufacturer are you referring to?
Thanks
SEMS
Just one place to pick some up
http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-HR010_5.html?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(roi)+product+listing+ads+-+tcp&utm_content=all+products&utm_term=automotive+paint&msclkid=8ef00444ca521c5431de5fbc4df0aa25 (http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-HR010_5.html?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(roi)+product+listing+ads+-+tcp&utm_content=all+products&utm_term=automotive+paint&msclkid=8ef00444ca521c5431de5fbc4df0aa25)
Jeff, would this (SEM) be appropriate for the hood blackout ?
was the original undercarriage and engine bay paint now acrylic enamel or alkyd enamel
Quote from: Kent on November 24, 2018, 05:09:35 AM
was the original undercarriage and engine bay paint now acrylic enamel or alkyd enamel
Undercarriage paint/primer was an epoxy primer sealer/paint according to Ford documents.reference.
Quote from: corbins on November 23, 2018, 07:35:04 PM
Jeff, would this (SEM) be appropriate for the hood blackout ?
Are you referring to the base black used on hoods that were painted body color on the top side and edges? If so I can see using it for that purpose though I would not use it for both engine compartment and bottom of the hood on the same car out of the can
Quote from: J_Speegle on November 25, 2018, 10:34:04 PM
Quote from: Kent on November 24, 2018, 05:09:35 AM
was the original undercarriage and engine bay paint now acrylic enamel or alkyd enamel
Undercarriage paint/primer was an epoxy primer sealer/paint according to Ford documents.reference.
So the undercarriage paint was different to the engine bay paint? What did they used for the engine bay? When they had the bare body what were the steps they did to paint it? And which type of colour did they used? Thanks Kent
See reply #1
I think its pretty straight forward. While every plant was not the same, the paint order was the same.
Primer, body color, blackout
If you are not getting the answers you need on the forum, try connecting with someone in your area that has done it before.
Undercarrige paint is primer
Body color was single stage (one component) enamel
You are asking about the chemical composition of the original paint. I dont think it matters what you use. Most concours cars do not use original paint systems, because of enviromental laws or the fact many of these paints are no longer manufactured. I would be surprised if you can buy single stage, acrylic enamel in Germany. I am pretty sure the original paint has lead in it and it is no longer available.
I think you are worrying too much about the exact type of paint. Pick a paint that you can have sprayed that looks good to you. No one is going to do a chemical analysis of your paint job.
This is like tryingto buy a light bulb. If you go the store and ask for a light bulb for your lamp, they are going to hand you one of theose squiggly things. It will still work.
I sprayed my car with original acrylic enamel and no one even knew. They all assumed it was a base coat, clear coat modern paint.
Even using original materials, replicating the assembly process of baking/curing the paint will not necessarily yield an exact replication. A good catalyzed paint system that you're (or your body/paint shop) familiar with is best and then mix accordingly to replicate finishes.
Agreed, its kind of like asking what oil was in the car originally.
You can use the same oil, but there are a lot of other choices and one could arugue, better choices. Things have changed and its about working with what is available.
Agreed it's about the final results and that is the fun/challenge for restorers. How ever you achieve the end goal (looking like an original finish) it up to you and if involved your painter.
Be careful if you choose a straight primer for a finished surface sine these are often porous (on purpose) and can rust through. Primer sealers as they were referred to as seal the surface
Quote from: J_Speegle on November 25, 2018, 10:34:53 PM
Quote from: corbins on November 23, 2018, 07:35:04 PM
Jeff, would this (SEM) be appropriate for the hood blackout ?
Are you referring to the base black used on hoods that were painted body color on the top side and edges? If so I can see using it for that purpose though I would not use it for both engine compartment and bottom of the hood on the same car out of the can
http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-HR010_5.html?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(roi)+product+listing+ads+-+tcp&utm_content=all+products&utm_term=automotive+paint&msclkid=8ef00444ca521c5431de5fbc4df0aa25
I was referring to a 69 hood blackout treatment. Would this SEM product be appropriate to the blackout ?
Thanks !
I sprayed my car with original acrylic enamel and no one even knew. They all assumed it was a base coat, clear coat modern paint.
Pete , that finish came out as close to the factory finished as far as gloss and texture is concerned as any car could be. Considering a real person with a spray gun in his hand applied it vs a factory spray machine, it was true blue for sure !
Quote from: corbins on November 26, 2018, 03:06:47 PM
I was referring to a 69 hood blackout treatment. Would this SEM product be appropriate to the blackout ?
IMHO having shot both. No
Quote from: corbins on November 26, 2018, 03:12:07 PM
Pete , that finish came out as close to the factory finished as far as gloss and texture is concerned as any car could be. Considering a real person with a spray gun in his hand applied it vs a factory spray machine, it was true blue for sure !
These cars were sprayed by hand also pretty much like they would have been at any body shop, with a high end booth of the time. Difference was that the paint was supplied through a series of hoses and large container of paint rather than in the gun (gravity feed).
Now comparing todays spray guns and methods are often very different from the 60's and often this can create a challenge. Great to hear you achieved an original like finish
Thanks, thanks, thanks I learned a bit arround the painting process at ford, but at the end it will never 100% clear how the mixture of chemicals for the paint and primer was. But to make sure
Painting Process @ Ford
1. Primer was an Epoxy Enamel Primer in red
2. Paint on the Car was Acrylic Enamel
3. Blackout for engine bay was Acrylic Enamel
I dont think there was any epoxy in the 1960s, but you have the rest correct
Quote from: Coralsnake on November 26, 2018, 06:08:03 PM
I dont think there was any epoxy in the 1960s, but you have the rest correct
Have to show you the info from Ford :) At least that is what they were calling it.
Interesting topic. I found this;
Epoxy has been around for over 100 years. In the early 1900's Russian chemists were the first to begin synthesizing epoxy compounds. The first commercial attempts to synthesize epoxy in the United States were made starting in 1927.
Initially epoxy was used in the marine and industrial industry. Often, epoxy coatings were (and still are) used as a primer to enhance the adhesion of paints that are applied as a final coating to hulls and decks. Epoxies are also used to protect and make repairs to the internal surface of hulls.
During the 1950's the use of epoxy expanded to include woodwork, building construction, and aerospace. Often in building construction and woodwork epoxy is used as a structural adhesive. Epoxies can be made flexible or rigid, transparent or opaque, or fast or slow setting. Compared to other adhesives, epoxies are more heat and chemical resistant. In aerospace applications epoxy is used as a structural matrix material that is then reinforced by fiber or as structural glue.
Today, epoxy has emerged as a residential material. Homeowners love epoxy flooring because it is long-lasting, easy to clean, and practically scratch-proof. 100% Solids epoxies have emerged as the best available epoxy flooring material available on the market" these are the most durable and long-lasting available.
Thanks for the clarification, I am sure that helps the OP.
I think the point was made earlier, is it really necessary to debate the chemical composition of the paint systems? If so, this might be helpful....
https://www.paint.org/article/brief-history-automotive-coatings-technology/
Now I think we got it all together so this thread will help people in the future.
Painting Process @ Ford
1. Primer was an Epoxy Enamel Primer in red
2. Paint on the Car was Acrylic Enamel
3. Blackout for engine bay was Acrylic Enamel
this thread went out very good I would say.
Quote from: Kent on November 27, 2018, 08:59:38 AM
1. Primer was an Epoxy Enamel Primer in red
2. Paint on the Car was Acrylic Enamel
3. Blackout for engine bay was Acrylic Enamel
Just being picky, but it wasn't always the same shade of red-oxide, sometimes it wasn't even red-oxide... the various sheet metal pieces could also be different color primers.
Also, there was usually a gray sealer primer used over the base primer on the outer facing panels of the body. Most likely to fill small blems and to give the same base for all the exterior paint to cover (in an attempt at consistency).
There is little consistency in the color of the primers in general. At least with a '67 you have a chance to being close with red oxide but then again it can be almost brown or almost Rustoleum "red"?
Try a '68 where it looks like they sprayed oxidized road debris on the rear and had a mix of red and white leaving pink around the bell housing hump?
Personally when I see this beautiful red oxide primer on a car a "warning light" goes off and screams "restored".
I think that the view of paint in general is going to continue to "evolve" over the coming years and what is acceptable today, won't be then.
So you would say the judging rules will be more picky in the next years that cars with a wrong looking finish etc. will loose points?
Quote from: Kent on November 27, 2018, 10:00:20 AM
So you would say the judging rules will be more picky in the next years that cars with a wrong looking finish etc. will loose points?
Ask the judges.
Quote from: Kent on November 27, 2018, 10:00:20 AM
So you would say the judging rules will be more picky in the next years that cars with a wrong looking finish etc. will loose points?
The judging rules are always evolving as new information surfaces and consensus changes . History shows things not getting more lax in various class's. The class that has the most entries which is concours class/DIV II which allows reproductions has been blessed with the aftermarket coming out with more authentic reproductions of original parts. Not all reproduction parts are the same there are still the inferior parts out there. These better alternatives along with better information allows expectations of higher authenticity to be obtainable in that class more so then in the past.
Quote from: Kent on November 27, 2018, 08:59:38 AM
Now I think we got it all together so this thread will help people in the future.
Painting Process @ Ford
1. Primer was an Epoxy Enamel Primer in red
2. Paint on the Car was Acrylic Enamel
3. Blackout for engine bay was Acrylic Enamel
this thread went out very good I would say.
Well this looks like it could use some fine turning :)
Was only referring to earlier of the coating used in 65-67 at San Jose on the floor section and likely 68 at NJ and on those cars coated at Dearborn with the red oxide version not the batch paint used during different production periods at Dearborn
The upper part of the car would have been a different product
There were two coats of different products applied to the exterior of the car. One a primer and one a primer surfacer. All of this is mentioned in the articles I shared in other threads
The chassis black was used on the wheel wells also (including radiator support) on 65-68 Shelbys
As far as "red oxide" I believe most of us use the name to describe a wide range of tone and tint. Rarely if at ever IMHO does it match exactly what some of might see straight out of a can that we see at the hardware store and for most cases we've found that there were two variations applied to to each car on at least the San Jose built cars.
One of the challenges we face in this discussion is the OP originally asked about two different years of production then mixed in "Mustang" rather than "Shelby" so we're either discussing here 6 different plants and possible cars or 2 of the same. Doing this is going to make the details difficult to impossible and the outcome likely confusing. This is the reason I produce my articles related to the subject by a single year and plant
This is not my area of expertise, but this is a photo I found on the net, supposed to be a restored '67 GT350 ? I saved it as reference for a model build.
Maybe it would be a good image for those more knowledgeable to point out what is right or wrong, always ready to learn something ;) before I put the model on the table at a show, and someone points out the inaccuracies ! model guys can be really anal !
Mike
Quote from: honker on November 27, 2018, 02:24:34 PM
This is not my area of expertise, but this is a photo I found on the net, supposed to be a restored '67 GT350 ? I saved it as reference for a model build.
Maybe it would be a good image for those more knowledgeable to point out what is right or wrong, always ready to learn something ;) before I put the model on the table at a show, and someone points out the inaccuracies ! model guys can be really anal !
Mike
For a model it would be fine given all finishes are painted faux finishes but on a real car many things can look better a natural finish appose to a faux painted finish. there are other detalls like wrong parts which on a model you have little control over. I will give a few examples but this car is so far off of the mark from a higher scoring SAAC DIV II entry that is hard to know where to start. Bellhousing looks fake painted,so does trans and trans pan,Starter has wrong finish and missing details, powersteering ram wrong faux finish,missing hardware on chassis side PS ram, wrong PS hose's,wrong inner and outer tie rods,wrong tie rod adjusters, wrong paint markings on drag link,wrong idler arm, wrong finishes on repro lower control arms ,wrong hardware on concentrics, wrong upper control arms, wrong paint marking on strut rods. Maybe wrong sway bar but can't be sure from this angle. Too much typing. I will let others finish.
Quote from: honker on November 27, 2018, 02:24:34 PM
This is not my area of expertise, but this is a photo I found on the net, supposed to be a restored '67 GT350 ? I saved it as reference for a model build.
Maybe it would be a good image for those more knowledgeable to point out what is right or wrong, always ready to learn something ;) before I put the model on the table at a show, and someone points out the inaccuracies ! model guys can be really anal !
Think we're getting WAY off thread as we move into details for other things other than paint. Picture (as Bob wrote) has a a ton of incorrect details as far as parts used, finishes, paint marks .... so best to say its not a good choice IMHO for someone to copy if their looking to reproduce the original look of an original 67 Shelby. This does work as a good example of why its not the best idea to copy what you find on the web in general.
As for paint details it appears that the restorer used a flat red oxide primer rather than a primer sealer which produced a much flatter in finish than typically found on original cars from the firewall forward it appears. They also forgot the dolly marks/bare spots and possibly a couple of other details
ok now we need a pic of a GT350 and GT500 that is correct ;D
Quote from: Kent on November 27, 2018, 04:54:05 PM
ok now we need a pic of a GT350 and GT500 that is correct ;D
For the paint details? Remembering your subject title. IF so then the engine size would not matter.
The challenge is that if we posted one for the paint details allot of owners would copy it exactly where in reality there was a typical range and that is where the challenge is - showing that range.
Jeff, Do you still plan your "White Papers" for the '67 model year?
If so, I would like to purchase a copy.
Quote from: 2112 on November 27, 2018, 05:32:48 PM
Jeff, Do you still plan your "White Papers" for the '67 model year?
If so, I would like to purchase a copy.
Yes its on it's third editorial review - not the best writer but want to be as clear and exact in my descriptions and have to fight the urge of covering too much slightly on the edge of the subject being focused on. Maybe, got allot of things going on currently, right after the Holidays then I can move the focus on to the only Shelby year and plant I've not covered yet. - 1968's
They are always offered for free either through membership at CMF or for articles like the undercarriage ones offered freely through one or more other good forums that the subject matter relates to.
Changing might temp a few who could use the information out or tempt them to use the information from another year and or plant, plus I would not know how to set a price on the effort and years spent accumulating the information.
Quote from: J_Speegle on November 26, 2018, 03:19:20 PM
Quote from: corbins on November 26, 2018, 03:06:47 PM
I was referring to a 69 hood blackout treatment. Would this SEM product be appropriate to the blackout ?
IMHO having shot both. No
Quote from: corbins on November 26, 2018, 03:12:07 PM
Pete , that finish came out as close to the factory finished as far as gloss and texture is concerned as any car could be. Considering a real person with a spray gun in his hand applied it vs a factory spray machine, it was true blue for sure !
These cars were sprayed by hand also pretty much like they would have been at any body shop, with a high end booth of the time. Difference was that the paint was supplied through a series of hoses and large container of paint rather than in the gun (gravity feed).
Now comparing todays spray guns and methods are often very different from the 60's and often this can create a challenge. Great to hear you achieved an original like finish
Ok , thanks... so as you have sprayed both.. what exactly do you use for the 69 hood blackout ???
Quote from: J_Speegle on November 27, 2018, 05:44:10 PM
Yes its on it's third editorial review - not the best writer but want to be as clear and exact in my descriptions and have to fight the urge of covering too much slightly on the edge of the subject being focused on. Maybe, got allot of things going on currently, right after the Holidays then I can move the focus on to the only Shelby year and plant I've not covered yet. - 1968's
They are always offered for free either through membership at CMF or for articles like the undercarriage ones offered freely through one or more other good forums that the subject matter relates to.
Changing might temp a few who could use the information out or tempt them to use the information from another year and or plant, plus I would not know how to set a price on the effort and years spent accumulating the information.
Well, that is a heck of a contribution to the hobby considering just how much work it had to have taken.
Thank you.
You deserve more than just a thank you tho.
Quote from: 2112 on November 27, 2018, 10:03:39 PM
You deserve more than just a thank you tho.
Donations to the site never hurt and keep the wolves away from the front door LOL But this is not required