My passenger side window is stuck in the (luckily)up position.Crank is frozen and won't spin ..Any ideas?Also, I am assuming I will need to take off the door panel,how hard are these to remove without breaking them?original part...Thanks, Trent
Hey Trent, it sounds like the window regulator inside the door has worn out and jammed (fairly common after this many years). You will need to remove the door panel. There are some pretty good videos on You Tube showing how to replace the regulator on '67-'68 Mustangs. If you have not removed the door panel before, remove the window crank and inner door handle by loosening the screw on each and pulling them straight off. On your Deluxe Interior door panel, you will also need to pry up the little pad that sits down inside the hand-hold area on the door panel (this is the area you grab to close the door.) Under this little pad are screws that need to be removed. I would recommend picking up a tool similar to this to help remove the panel as it is fastened to the door with spring clips and needs to be carefully and patiently pried away. Cover this tool or whatever tool you choose to use with a soft cloth to keep from scratching the paint on your door.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-door-upholstery-remover-ac529/9020365-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=9020365-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjcrQXwIS2xT5-idBMjrZJzpv1WUFyVeSTLNLWLSQ8bh-pl7L-tIkWQaAihgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
When ordering the new regulator, I would definitely order a new set of clips to reattach the door panel. Make sure you order the clips for the Deluxe interior door panel as IIRC, they are different from the clips for the Standard interior panels. Important **remove any damaged old clips one-by-one from the panel and replace with a new clip trying to orient the new clip in exactly the same position as the old clip. This will help save time and frustration when lining up the clips with the holes in the door when installing.
This is not a hard project but it does take some patience so take your time.
Best,
Jeff
1967 and 1968 door regulators are different
Quote from: Coralsnake on December 29, 2018, 11:09:07 AM
1967 and 1968 door regulators are different
And therefore not functionally interchangeable?
Pete, is the installation different on the '67 and '68? Not being a jerk, just asking for education.
Jeff
Here is a video put together by West Coast Cougar. He is working on a Cougar with very different door panels, but at about 4:30, he gets inside the door and gets to the regulator itself. He has some good "while you are at it," suggestions too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9uBLsG8p00
Quote from: JWH on December 29, 2018, 12:24:17 PM
Pete, is the installation different on the '67 and '68? Not being a jerk, just asking for education.
Jeff
Installation is the same but the regulator where the crank handle attaches is not.
Thats correct , they are interchangeable, but there are some differences. Its been awhile, so I cant pin point them. The clocking is off on most reproductions and that may be it. If you can get over that you will be fine
Window crank shafts different 67 to 68.
67-8 have a different shaft length, otherwise they are the same. There is no set screw. There is a plug dead-center on the handle area of the armrest. You'll have to un-screw both handles. You may have to move the door panel away from the door to get the handle off the shaft in the arm rest. Be sure to also remove the nut on your remote mirror. The clip set needs to come from AMK. Many of the clips are padded. Be sure to use plastic pry tools and/or a towel to protect the door surface. It is VERY easy to damage the door or panel.
I can walk you through in PM if you need it. I just re-assembled my '67 Shelby over the summer.
-Keith
Guessing the '68 shaft is longer?
By much? 1/8", 1/4"?
About .225 difference.
Here is an illustration:
They do a very good job. Too many vendors are lazy and don't do (or cant do) their own research!
Cheers to WCCC
Quote from: 67350#1242 on December 30, 2018, 10:13:38 AM
Here is an illustration:
Great visual aid, thank you
I am assuming that the over the counter service part was commonly the '68 version?
Is there any hope of refurbishing the original regulators or is it just best to buy new repro units? Watching the WCCC video it seems the gears wear out which I assume is impossible to refurbish?
I don't know of anyone that restores them. There are still NOS regulators floating around. They were a common failure. However, in all honesty I don't see a reason to justify that expenditure unless you're competing in a class that requires it.
Drake makes a nice reproduction and compared well with my Ford service parts purchased in the 90's.
Be sure to clean up all your guides and tracks. Lubricate all the metal contact points with white lithium and those with felt/rubber contact with a graphite stick during reassembly.
-Keith
I recently scored NOS service part regulators. The arms have a C7 #, the chassis body has C6 # stamping. Passenger side is galvanized, I assume it is much newer even though the boxes looked about the same vintage.
I dug them out to make sure they had the '67 shafts on both sides.
They were expensive. Worth it vs. the reproductions? For a part you might never see? Not sure I can answer that.
.
There are still a lot of nice used ones still available from donor cars.I would do that first over a repro. Unless things have changed the repros do not work as smooth as the Ford ones.
There are still a lot of NOS units out there. They were offered by ford into the late 90's. The grease hardened and destroys the regulator from the stresses put on the units when the regulators aren't kept lubricated.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on December 30, 2018, 06:09:34 PM
Is there any hope of refurbishing the original regulators or is it just best to buy new repro units? Watching the WCCC video it seems the gears wear out which I assume is impossible to refurbish?
They can be done but ill advised for the beginner. You use the crank gear from a passenger side unit (drivers side used 10:1)
We made special tools to remove/install springs and have correct rivets. Very dangerous without