I've decided this is finally the year to put my original, restored hood on my car.
Is it feasible to weld some fold-over tabs on to an older, reproduction peak molding? The one I have is currently screwed to the underside of my repro hood and the screws are not in the original locations. I also have a dented original peak molding that is missing the tabs (broken off). I would rather not buy the newer, incorrect repro peak molding with screws for $300.
Also, what type of adhesive should I use to glue the rear grates on the 2 rear hood scoops? Was this adhesive painted black along with the underside of the hood? If not, what color was the original adhesive?
Thanks.
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on February 09, 2019, 01:26:10 PM
I've decided this is finally the year to put my original, restored hood on my car.
Is it feasible to weld some fold-over tabs on to an older, reproduction peak molding? The one I have is currently screwed to the underside of my repro hood and the screws are not in the original locations. I also have a dented original peak molding that is missing the tabs (broken off). I would rather not buy the newer, incorrect repro peak molding with screws for $300.
Also, what type of adhesive should I use to glue the rear grates on the 2 rear hood scoops? Was this adhesive painted black along with the underside of the hood? If not, what color was the original adhesive?
Thanks.
Originally it appeared to be a epoxy type product. I have used JB weld the grills. They were put on after the hood was painted so there was no overspray on them when new.
Thanks for the reply Bob.
What color should the 4 hood grills be painted? Is it the same color as the front grill and top side of fog light support (argent) ?
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on February 13, 2019, 11:05:33 AM
Thanks for the reply Bob.
What color should the 4 hood grills be painted? Is it the same color as the front grill and top side of fog light support (argent) ?
Technically they were not painted but the mesh material they were cut from had a electro applied finish . With that said if yours are in need of cosmetic attention then a satin black finish is what they looked like new so make them look like that however you do it.
Upon further review, I think I will buy a new hood peak molding for my original hood that will be getting painted soon. My old repro molding is in rougher shape than I thought. Has anyone used one of Branda's newer style peak moldings with the threaded screws instead of fold over tabs? Were you happy with the fit and finish?
Also, I need to buy 4 hood grates. Who makes the best looking reproductions?
Thanks.
Something to remember when installing is that it was not uncommon for A O Smith to use a thin double sided tape to help hold down the hood peak molding besides the fold over tab's.
QuoteSomething to remember when installing is that it was not uncommon for A O Smith to use a thin double sided tape to help hold down the hood peak molding besides the fold over tab's.
I used 3M outdoor double faced tape on mine...So far so good... :) I installed several peak moldings (Ford) back in the 70's and they came with double sided tape attached.
TOB
Quote from: TOBKOB on April 02, 2019, 09:56:08 PM
QuoteSomething to remember when installing is that it was not uncommon for A O Smith to use a thin double sided tape to help hold down the hood peak molding besides the fold over tab's.
I used 3M outdoor double faced tape on mine...So far so good... :) I installed several peak moldings (Ford) back in the 70's and they came with double sided tape attached.
TOB
The Branda peak molding comes with screws, which hopefully would match up to the slots in OEM hood for securing the molding. Do you think I could get away with only double sided tape and eliminate the screws?
How about weld tabs with tig welder ?
Or make screwin tabs ?
What is the screws size ?
Good questions. I don't know what the screw size is of the branda part. I will ask the shop about tig welding.
I have some of the older SHelby Parts and Restoration hood molding with the tabs.