I've recently viewed the rinseless car wash procedure on YouTube particularly involving a 65 G.T. 350 and wondered if anyone here has an opinion on its viability as an effective means of cleaning the paintwork without getting water in crevices and cracks where it would best be left dry. I am suitably intrigued by the procedure.
Here is the link: https://youtu.be/IuGs52ps7Yo
Wait, he said there was no orange peel. Are you sure that was a real Shelby GT350?
Either use a bucket of water and micro fiber towels if really dirty. If not, quick detailer. Never have used a hose on either Shelby I own.
Greek
Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash on everything from the Shelby's to my daily Truck...can even be used in place of a quick detailed. Can be had from abut serious detailing supply seller. One ounce makes 3 gallons of product so it's remarkably inexpensive and the best product of its nature on the market.
Finish with a lite coat of spray wax.
https://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang-uber-rinseless-wash.html
Will post more detailed info tonight but posting on my phone right now.
Kind regards,
Vern
All good advice everyone. I am going to look into the Wolfgang products. Thank you! And orange peel, BGlover67 LOL! I had to check peel versus peal incidentally. Peal meaning a loud sound like a peal of thunder. We got it right.
Anyway, sorry for the terrible grammar in the last post. I have actually pondered posting a similar thread to this in the past because every time I go to a car show I see people doing all sorts of things that, while good back in the day, are probably not the best way to care for your car in modern times.
I am not someone who gets obsessive about detailing, but I like to have the cars looking their cleanest and I dont want to damage the paint in the process.
Looking forward to reading more responses on this thread and I will also share some opinion as the thread matures. Looking forward to everyone sharing their experiences on this thread.
Kind regards,
Vern
Garden hose,simple green car wash,some towels...It's a driver,so......
Car wash type soap, water, towels and a shammy.
Simple green and water for the engine compartment.
A backpack leaf blower for drying the engine compartment ;D
Quote from: Vernon Estes on February 08, 2018, 05:37:18 PM
https://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang-uber-rinseless-wash.html
Thanks Vern, gonna try that out.
palmolive and water
once at any event it stays in its natural arrival state
I use the Griots Speed Shine.
And a micro fiber cloth.
And a big FYI is that you need to buy good quality micro cloths. Otherwise you are not really spending your money wisely. They are not all created equally.
Quote from: Bigfoot on February 09, 2018, 08:21:46 AM
And a big FYI is that you need to buy good quality micro cloths. Otherwise you are not really spending your money wisely. They are not all created equally.
That is no kidding.
https://www.theragcompany.com/
And there is only one way to wash them. Because you don't want and grit, lint and sh!t in the cloth.
1. Wash them alone
2. Moderate amount of soap
3. Any really "beat" cloths keep out. They are now for your daily d.
4. Once wash is over,..fluff them up etc with your hands.
5. Re-wash with no soap.
6. Air dry on rack
x2 (R Code hasn't seen water since the 80's)
Quote from: Bigfoot on February 09, 2018, 08:19:24 AM
I use the Griots Speed Shine.
And a micro fiber cloth.
I've found these two sites to be the best for explaining the detailing process, from washing to polishing, etc. The second series has a lot of information aimed at the professional detailer, but is invaluable to the individual doing his own cars as well.
I maintain my own cars, as for washing I use my compressor along with a foam cannon to pre soak the cars surface with soap. I then use the two bucket method (along with grit guards) to wash the cars. The exception being the CSX which I wash just using the two bucket method using Adam's or Chemical Guys car soap. For drying I use a electric leaf blower and a waffle weave MF towel. I often apply a quick detailer during the toweling off which adds additional gloss and seems to speed drying time.
I'll add additional if I think of anything relevant to this thread.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p8FOcHAFZA&app=desktop
https://www.ammonyc.com/videos/
Great question and great answers!
I only use waterless products. My fear in using regular water is that I'll introduce water into areas that will never allow the water to come out. Consequently, I'm concerned about inducing rust rich conditions during the process. So, I use all Jax Wax products (no sponsorship; although I'm open ;D) and I tailor what I'm doing to the needs of the car (i.e., do I need some paint correction from swirls, or do I just need a simple cleaning).
I'm certainly not a detailing connoisseur; however, I've grown much in my cleaning/detaling over the years.
It's funny - I can't stand to clean anything. But, when it comes to my cars, I could spend DAYS out there making them look their best. My wife loves that about me... ::)
Every spring, I have a guy that comes to my place and he spends the entire day detailing the outside of the car. He cleans the interior & engine bay as well. Because he does detailing for a living, he always seems to have the best/latest products and makes my car look fantastic! From there I use a light car cover when the car is put away, and I often use Meguiars detailer to touch it up once in a while.
One process of detailing I'd like to add is the use of a decontamination solution that removes imbedded contaminates like iron from the paint, glass, etc. You would be amazed at the amount of stuff, invisible to the naked eye, that is imbedded into the paint. These contaminates cannot be removed with a clay bar or simply washing the car. These iron removers loosens the debris, which appears as reddish streaks when it's working and then is simply washed off.
Your paint will appear smoother, shinier and have greater depth of color. You simply spray the body panels, glass and even metal surfaces and it goes to work in minutes removing the embedded iron and contaminates. This link has pictures of the results of using the product and some recommended products. This is probably the cheapest detailing product that has the biggest impact on the cars finish.
https://www.autogeek.net/iron-removers.html
One addition to my last post which I would like to make is that the Wolfgang Uber is best used when a car is not remarkably dirty. For example, during the winter when it is difficult to keep a daily driver clean in the midwest, I do a traditional power wash of my truck followed by a 2 bucket system wash using a microfibre wash mit and good ole fashioned meguiars gold standard car soap, spot free rinse/de-ionized water, followed by some spray wax spritzed over the wet truck to help with drying and to prevent water spots. From there, either a hand held leaf blower (mine a battery pack powered dewalt) or a quick wipe down with micro fibers and some Wolfgang Uber to add lubrication to the towels.
I'll also add that my truck has a ceramic coating on it which does wonders in making the truck much easier to clean and keeps it much cleaner between washes. That is a totally different topic though. I even put some more mild coatings on the Shelbys from time to time. Again, a conversation perhaps for another thread though...
Since this thread is about washing the Shelbys, though, I had only previously posted about using Wolfgang Uber because the Shelbys are kept clean enough that using a traditional car wash method is unnecessary for me. During the summer, spring, or even fall, I try to go over the truck once or twice a week which is frequent enough to only need to do a wipe down with Wolfgang Uber as opposed to going "all out" with a traditional wash.
Worth noting also though...everyone has their own way of doing things and taking care of their own belongings. Hopefully this thread will be of value to forum members though in improving the way they wash their cars, if they want that.
Kind regards,
Vern
A real game changer?
https://crspotless.com
And a leaf blower to dry.
All in all, I think there are a few important facts to note about washing cars, at least from what I've learned over the last few years. Also keep in mind, I am not an ultra anal-retentive personality type when it comes to detailing, but I like them to be clean and I like to know that (if im gonne put the effort into cleaning them and keeping them up) that I at least am doing it what I figure is the "right" way.
1. The best way to wash a car depends on how dirty it is. There's a big difference between what should be done to a car that needs dust and fingerprints removed vs. a car that has been driven for 3 days after 3 inches of snow in the midwest..
2. Good quality, clean microfibres are a must. When wiping a car down and a towel gets a little dirty (as in you can see any accumulation on the towel), just throw it in the wash pile and get a fresh one. A dirty towel will render every other point here useless...after all, this is the thing which you are rubbing directly on your paint.
3. A good lubricant (quick detailer, Wolfgang Uber or similar product) is a must when wiping a car down.
4. A good PH neutral (or close) soap is nice to have.
5. I've always found that spray wax is good for a number of things. Extra coat of protection, water beading, extending amount of times between washes, building up a protective layer for your paint from contaminants, and help in drying a car are some but not all of the benefits.
6. Since I started using coatings a few years ago, I've come to know the benefits. Some are hesitant to use a coating (as I was back then) but they really make cleaning and protecting any car a much easier task. Im personally not a big fan of clear bras (at least on the old cars) but i think a coating is a great addition to any Shelby Mustang's paint finish.
Anyway, some more of my thoughts. Have greatly enjoyed reading some of the other posters' thoughts.
Kind regards,
Vern
Despite what I said earlier I would still use a hose and a bucket but it's very efficient using the spray washes. For my truck or modern car it's the $8.99 drive threw.
Me too! The quality of urethane epoxy paints versus the quick fade enamels of old make the surfaces much more durable. In addition we are well past the "J-Wax" products of the sixties with remarkable modern detail products. It still takes a lot of hand wash work, though. The single use f microfiber towels and a quality non-synthetic chamois works fine for me as does any decent brand of automotive soap used sparingly as directed.
Quote from: Bigfoot on February 09, 2018, 07:59:23 PM
Despite what I said earlier I would still use a hose and a bucket but it's very efficient using the spray washes. For my truck or modern car it's the $8.99 drive threw.
Discount the fill up and you get a car wash. Works for me😍
I have never used water since I have owned my car.
It never gets "filthy". When it does get dirtier than expected, i.e. sitting at a car show and travelling all day, I use a waterless car wash spray. I will use Adams Detail Spray in between washes, I use a California Duster to keep the dust off, and I keep the car covered when I can.
Water is the enemy
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 09, 2018, 07:59:11 AM
palmolive and water
once at any event it stays in its natural arrival state
+1 or Dawn
I will use dish detergent (very gently) if I want to strip all the wax/protective coating off.
Quote from: 2112 on February 10, 2018, 09:25:22 PM
I will use dish detergent (very gently) if I want to strip all the wax/protective coating off.
True, it will and is only useful for that purpose. A true automotive wash is a non-detergent that will not remove most polishes and holds dirt in suspension from the surface for it to be rinsed without leaving a residue. Never use a dishwasher detergent due to its harsh properties. 8)
All great advice gentlemen. I plan to try the rinseless car wash and see how that goes. When the snow disappears. Thank you all!
Richard E.
If you have a 69/70 your hood has 5 large drains straight to the engine compartment, therefore if you use water you must detail the engine compartment and and front suspension each time you wash it... ;D
TOB
Quote from: Vernon Estes on February 09, 2018, 07:17:26 PM...I am not an ultra anal-retentive personality type when it comes to detailing...
Yes you are Vern. ;D
- signed, everybody
Chadwicks is good stuff
Chadwick's Triple Play.com
QuoteChadwicks is good stuff
That is what I use and it seems to work well.
TOB
So if you do take a hose to your Shelby, or get caught in the rain, like I did 3 times, what is a good way to dry the car off to prevent rusting? I worry about rust in the rocker panel area of the convertible or down inside the doors. I took the glass out of my doors and painted the insides with chassis saver. I have a rust-free California car and would like to keep it that way, but as I get older, I am less afraid to drive it even if the weather is questionable.
Quote from: R Code on February 12, 2018, 11:28:23 AM
Quote from: Vernon Estes on February 09, 2018, 07:17:26 PM...I am not an ultra anal-retentive personality type when it comes to detailing...
Yes you are Vern. ;D
- signed, everybody
;D
I think this entire conversation depends on someone's frame of reference but I assure you that I am not anal retentive compared to some of the guys I know locally here in KC who are "into" high end detailing. Some of these guys aren't even "car guys" they just love detailing cars.
Those guys look at me and the way that I wash and detail my own stuff and think I am an absolute heathen... I just like hanging around them because they give me some good tips from time to time..though I ignore most of what they say because I think a lot of it is just going way farther than I would ever want to go....personal preference.
I drive all the cars that come through here and I am not afraid to get them dirty or wet. If I am going to go to all the effort of cleaning them, though, I just want to make sure I am doing no harm to the cars. Many guys harm the cosmetic finishes on their car when they are trying to clean the car. Most of the time its due to poor quality/dirty towels, bad products etc etc.
Anyway, like I said, it all depends on perspective when it comes to detailing and everyone can do things the way they want individually.
Kind regards,
Vern
;D
I think this entire conversation depends on someone's frame of reference but I assure you that I am not anal retentive compared to some of the guys I know locally here in KC who are "into" high end detailing. Some of these guys aren't even "car guys" they just love detailing cars.
[/quote]
+1 - Yes, that's why I stand back and let the "pros" handle it! ;D
Quote from: TOBKOB on February 12, 2018, 09:35:15 AM
If you have a 69/70 your hood has 5 large drains straight to the engine compartment, therefore if you use water you must detail the engine compartment and and front suspension each time you wash it... ;D
Yeah well 67s are no walk in the park either..Back when I used my 67 as a daily driver I had to stuff T-shirt's in the hoodscoop when it rained heavily...Also with a 69/70 you don't have to deal with upper extractor scoops "crying" for miles after every wash... ;D :o
TOB
This the way I seem to always wash it. Or at least it seems like it when I drive it
good one Steve
you are not a newbie
After washing, using the blower off the wet vac that was used to vac the interior is a great way to get the moisture out of the various hard to dry areas. I do the wheels and brakes, between all the seams, etc. to get the water displaced.
Quote from: Vernon Estes on February 12, 2018, 06:20:14 PM
...it all depends on perspective...
LOL, this is true. I've been called a little OCD about my vehicles too. Of course for me that means our daily drivers get the "full treatment" @ the drive through car wash a time or two during the winter.
It's good education, this thread & your posts, just couldn't resist breaking your stones a bit.
i'm a numbers matching sorta person. use ford carwash, ford paste wax on factory paint. worst problems are leftover water dripping from scoops. phred
Never heard of Fluid Film. Going to look it up!
An alternative to fluid film, Boeshield was developed by Boeing Aircraft and can be used over a myriad of materials to protect them.
https://boeshield.com