So I just got my car out of the shop; it was in to rebuild the motor. While it was out I had the T10 built because it would jump out of 2nd gear when going down hill if I was backing out of it, letting the motor hold the car back a little. Now that I've got it back, it does the same thing. I don't think it would have anything to do with it, but it has had a balky Hurst shifter as long as I've had it-it makes the 1-2 shift harder than it should be but I just put up with it cause I thought it looked great and I kinda liked it. Could the shifter have anything to do with this??
Thanks
T10s are notorious for popping out of second gear. What you described is the classic problem.
The shift mechanism has nothing to do with it.
Usually this is a detent issue but to me it just means the original design of the detent was insufficient. If it was rebuilt with original parts, it would have the original issue.
Talk to Jim at Shelby Parts and Restoration in Greenbay, WI. I think that he mentioned that he had a fix for this issue.
I'm not sure what the fix is on them but it could just be needing a stronger spring in the detent plunger mechanism ?
The reality is that these t10s should have been all recalled and corrected under warranty.
Jim at Shelby parts and restoration has a transmission guy that can fix the problem. Contact him for information.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 27, 2019, 10:02:25 PM
Jim at Shelby parts and restoration has a transmission guy that can fix the problem. Contact him for information.
Good to know thanks Bob
Mine did the same, now has a five speed :-)
In a top loader, the transmission is held in gear with a "detent". What that is, is a spring loaded pin.
It is about the size of 9mm bullet, but machined in steel with a point rather then a round bullet head.
It is held into a dent in the fork by spring pressure.
Two things could have happened. The tip on the "bullet" could have worn down to where it won't sit in the dimple in the fork OR it's ok but the strength of the spring has weakened or was never strong enough to begin with.
The bullet should be a hardened part, not just tool steel.
On the top loader, these detents are accessible from the outside of the transmission. They are covered by a 3/8" bolt. The bullet can be fished out with a magnet.
I would presume that the T10's are accessible from the outside but if not, then you need to open the case to change them.
The solution is to change either the pin or the spring. Possibly both.
A stronger spring is going to be noticeable when shifting. It is going to make more of a positive click when in gear. That could have been the reason that seemingly so many do this, i.e., the engineer in charge decided there would be too many customer complaints about notchy shifting?
There is no question that this is the reason so many T10's were changed out for top loaders?
One way to have the 'pin' stay in the detent is to enlarge the detent recess. Notice the detent recess on the left, it has been enlarged to hold second gear. This one is 'set' to require about 11 lbs pressure to move out of second gear.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/thumb_15-280419161430.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/thumb_15-280419161518.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/15-280419161430.jpeg)
Have owned 550 since 1967, and have never experienced it jumping out of second gear, or any other gear. Ron
Quote from: A-Snake on April 28, 2019, 07:05:32 PM
One way to have the 'pin' stay in the detent is to enlarge the detent recess. Notice the detent recess on the left, it has been enlarged to hold second gear. This one is 'set' to require about 11 lbs pressure to move out of second gear.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/thumb_15-280419161430.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/thumb_15-280419161518.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/15-280419161430.jpeg)
How does that make the shifter feel?
Whoever rebuilds your trans ask them about reverse cut or torque lock sliders. These sliders taper to hold the slider (and shift fork) on the gear, unlike the standard slider which has straight engagement teeth. Using these hubs on both 1-2 and 3-4 along with deepened detent valley's will stop the popping out of gear.
There are also two different hub and slider detent styles. I have been "no popping" them for decades for my Southern California friends. I have only had to alter the "levers" in the side cover once on a Corvette trans.
Randy
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 28, 2019, 08:31:57 PM
Quote from: A-Snake on April 28, 2019, 07:05:32 PM
One way to have the 'pin' stay in the detent is to enlarge the detent recess. Notice the detent recess on the left, it has been enlarged to hold second gear. This one is 'set' to
Quote
How does that make the shifter feel?
There is a little more pressure that can be felt when shifting out of second.
gt350hr, Do you use the original T-10 sliders and key's or the super T-10's? I also find the stamped hollow keys shift better at higher RPM.
If the photos I uploaded do not
show correctly, look at
them in my gallery.
Quote from: kram350 on April 29, 2019, 09:47:10 PM
gt350hr, Do you use the original T-10 sliders and key's or the super T-10's? I also find the stamped hollow keys shift better at higher RPM.
I do not use original T10 sliders. I only use the "modern" hooked sliders even if the trans wasn't popping. Hollow keys are OK , but "some" drivers seem to like to break them. Other drivers never break anything.
Randy
I had this problem back in 1975 for a BW T-10. The output shaft moved too much and Ford sold a packet of different thickness snap rings that fixed it. Sorry I don't have that old Ford part #
+1 , minimal end play is another key factor to keep the transmission from popping out of gear. It is very tough to eliminate all end play as we are dealing with ball bearings that have inherent play in them. The large snap ring in the aluminum "mid plate" is most responsible for end play in the T-10 . Over time ( 50 + years) the receiver groove in the plate "hammers" a bit and end play increases. If the end play is extreme , the plate must be replaced as there isn't a sure fire way of reducing the play.
Randy
I had the problem and the excessive "end play" was caused by a cracked aluminum tail housing.