I understand (unfortunately) that no one restores these. My set has very nice chrome, but the aluminum spokes need some light attention. Is there anything that could be done to improve the appearance of them? Mask the chrome and a light media blast??? Does any one have a picture of what they should look like?
Quote from: kasearch@ix.netcom.com on June 04, 2019, 04:48:00 PM
I understand (unfortunately) that no one restores these. My set has very nice chrome, but the aluminum spokes need some light attention. Is there anything that could be done to improve the appearance of them? Mask the chrome and a light media blast??? Does any one have a picture of what they should look like?
It depends on what your definition of restore is . I am not aware of anyone currently disassembling them and re chroming the original rim ,restoring the appearance of the center and then re riveting them together. That is to factory standards. Craig conley restores the centers and adds them to a new DOT approved rim which is slightly different then original and instead of riveting he glues and adds cap crews to hold them together. The repros I have seen have steel slugs cast into the aluminum centers which are then welded to the rim. I have known people myself included who had success doing just what you propose.masking and lightly blasting. The top flat edge of the spokes were lightly polished when new. The inside of the spoke surface was a porous as cast aluminum. The factory sprayed a clear coat over the aluminum to help with oxidation however the clear coat would sometimes darken giving a goldish hue to the aluminum. The clear would also flack off most noticeably on the top flat surface that was lightly polished . It wasn't too thick so it came off relatively easily or wore off. Most do not put any clear coat on them when restoring to eliminate the problem of the clear how ever there is on going maintenance to keep them fresh looking.
Media blast suggestion: First thing I would try is crushed walnut shell.
Bob and Roddster, thank you for the details on how to "improve" the looks of my wheel. I am going to follow through on this. They will, at the least, look better than they are now.
There is a "somewhat " new process called "vapor blasting" that is showing some merit. You may want to look at that. It does WONDERS for die cast valve covers that "were" extremely difficult to restore the proper finish to. I haven't used it myself put the pictures are showing superior results.
Randy
Quote from: gt350hr on June 05, 2019, 11:56:56 AM
There is a "somewhat " new process called "vapor blasting" that is showing some merit. You may want to look at that. It does WONDERS for die cast valve covers that "were" extremely difficult to restore the proper finish to. I haven't used it myself put the pictures are showing superior results.
Randy
Randy , I can't give a for sure comment because I have never seen a wheel done with the vapor blasting but it would be interesting to see. From the pictures of other items I have seen the vapor blasting may leave too shiny of a finish on a typically dull aluminum porous surface like the inside of the spokes of a 69/70 Shelby wheel. Better for smooth surface IMO it seems.
Yes Bob I have to admit the majority of pictures I have seen are from The Ansen sourced die cast aluminum covers (69-70 GT500s and other 428CJs, Boss 302/351, and 429 CJ/SCJ). It does have that somewhat shiny look so It may not be appropriate. I haven't seen it done to a sand cast finish.
Randy
Could someone please post a closeup picture of an original wheel?
I can blast wheels without masking the chrome as the process is too gentle to affect the chrome finish. It actually takes some patience to remove a zinc or zinc dichromate finish. The photo below shows an automatic shifter from a 1970 Mach 1 that I blasted fairly aggressively and the chrome was unaffected. The plastic dial was not masked either and you can see that the blasting did not 'frost' it. I've also included a photo of my Blue Thunder FE intake to give you an idea of the finish that vapor blasting gives to sand cast parts. I've also attached a photo of a '69/'70 plastic seatback during the blasting process.
https://youtu.be/7-DA-J6kbFo (https://youtu.be/7-DA-J6kbFo)
Let me ask a different version of this question for the wheels. Since these wheels can't be disassembled for restoration, and no one makes a correct replacement for the wheel, what is everyone doing for wheels on their Shelby's if they don't have a good set of original wheels?
Paradise Wheels in CA
Quote from: kasearch@ix.netcom.com on June 14, 2019, 11:35:01 AM
Let me ask a different version of this question for the wheels. Since these wheels can't be disassembled for restoration, and no one makes a correct replacement for the wheel, what is everyone doing for wheels on their Shelby's if they don't have a good set of original wheels?
The wheels can be disassembled for restoration. The problem is no one is willing to put the rivets back in for liability reasons currently. You have to study the various concours class's to understand the various qualifications. For example the better repro wheels are typically no deduction in all but the strictest class's of most venue's.
I don't know anyone that has even tried to restore an assembly line "no rivet, glued" wheel. Those wheels are REALLY dangerous. About ten years ago I saw a set STILL on a '69 GT500. I warned the owner and he replaced them quickly. One fell apart ( from aluminum corrosion in our salty beach climate) as the tire was being removed. He was lucky.
Randy