Has anyone ever had the motor continue to run when you turn the key off. I'm guessing it is the ignition switch. It's the original one that came on the car. Thanks for your input. Ron
Thank happened to my 69 GT350 convertible. It was the ignition switch in my case, and my starter solenoid kept the starter engaged after the engine started. Very bad day.
I had that with a later model car as well... yep - it was the ignition switch.
Fortunately the car was a 4-speed and I could stall it to shut down ???
Rocket also has a 4 speed. The article on your car and the two of you was great.
Terry
Ignition mechanismnot allowing key to fully return to "on" position after being turned to the "Start" position. Keeps starter energized and spinning with flywheel/flexplate. New ignition assembly should help.
Happened to my 66 several years ago, it was the solenoid.
When owner turns key from "on" to "Start", does it snap back to "on" or do you almost have to physically move key back to "on"? Could be key mechanism sticking. Hear these cars have had challenges in this area, after 50 plus years.... But then so do I...
Could be the solenoid....bang it with a wrench if it happens or just pop the clutch quickly if you need to.
IMHO I would say it's very likely your solenoid. As I recall, the solenoid is designed to energize the coil while the starter motor is engaged and turning, when the ignition switch is released from the start or crank position the power to the coil then switches back and comes from the ignition switch not the solenoid.
An internal problem in the solenoid can cause the coil to stay energized even after the ignition switch is turned to the off position, which of course would keep the ignition energized and the engine running when it is supposed to be off.
Hope this helps!
Thanks, Karl
I have the key and cylinder out. I have pushed the switch toward the dash, and turned it the 1/8 turn counter clockwise, like the manual says. Next the manual says to remove the bezel ,switch and spacer. How do I get the bezel off. Looking at it,, I'm wondering if it screws off of the switch. Thanks in advance for the help. Ron
Rocket
Yes the bezel screws on/off the switch.
I've got it all back together, except for hooking the speedometer cable back up to the speedometer. I took the instrument cluster out to get the ignition switch. I was able to get my hand in to unhook the cable, by unhooking wires on the temp. gage, and taking out some of the lights. I know that I used to unhook the speedometer, and hook it back up by putting my hand and arm in from the left side of the steering column. but can't seem to find any place to work my hand up there now. Maybe my hand is bigger than it was when I was younger. Any tips on how to get the cable hooked back up to the speedometer. Thanks in advance for your help. Ron
Maybe to late now, but there is usually enough cable that you can pull out far enough to hook the cable on before you put the instrument cluster back in the dash.
I tried to pull the cable out and didn't have any luck. I may have to get under the car and see if there are any clips around the transmission tunnel. Ron
if you drop the emergency brake handle (two big Phillip Screws hold it to the dash) then you can "wiggle" you hand up though the opening and get the cable back on
FYI: The solenoids that are available today are pretty bad. I went through two from NPD and I think the NAPA one is still in there. Cheap Chinese solenoids are the mainstay today.
I'm late to this thread,....but,.....are we talking about the car "dieseling" and burping or a vehicle that is idling perfectly after turning off key?
Quote from: Bigfoot on June 29, 2019, 10:00:22 PM
I'm late to this thread,....but,.....are we talking about the car "dieseling" and burping or a vehicle that is idling perfectly after turning off key?
I believe not "running on" but actually still running...idling perfect. I think it's the solenoid. That is the easiest and simplest to replace then I would look at the ignition switch. If that doesn't get it, I would sell the car.
If engine is running and not chugging after key is turned off, almost has to be solenoid. Not expensive and easy to replace.
power valve on the carb? Or just keep your foot on the brake and shift the car into 4th and let the clutch out. Assuming it's a stick
l got the speedometer hooked up, and everything back together, and now the motor won't run. It cranks over good but does not fire. I'm sure that I tried it after getting the ignition switch in, and it ran. I just took the tach out of the circuit, and no luck. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Ron
Quote from: Rocket on July 03, 2019, 05:08:17 PM
l got the speedometer hooked up, and everything back together, and now the motor won't run. It cranks over good but does not fire. I'm sure that I tried it after getting the ignition switch in, and it ran. I just took the tach out of the circuit, and no luck. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Ron
Make sure there is power to the coil with the key in the run position.
I can tell you last winter I did work on my 1968 GT350 dash and when I put things back together I had not hooked up the tach because I was just testing things out and found out the engine will not run with the tach disconnected. Engine turned over it just would not start. As soon as I connected the tach everything started fine.
12 + volts to coil. Just put tach back into the circuit, and same results. Ron
68 disconnected/bad tach, engine will not run...
12 Volts to coil, while cranking. Going to install a brand new dual point distributor and see if that cures it. Somehow may have fried the Petronix unit in the distributor that is in it now. Ron
It was the coil. Had it running with new dual point distributor. Trying to put the distributor with Petronix in now, and can't get it to go down all the way. Looks like the oil pump shaft isn't centered in the hole. Any help is greatly appreciated. Ron
Quote from: Rocket on July 08, 2019, 04:13:33 PM
It was the coil. Had it running with new dual point distributor. Trying to put the distributor with Petronix in now, and can't get it to go down all the way. Looks like the oil pump shaft isn't centered in the hole. Any help is greatly appreciated. Ron
If the distributor was in there before and you've got it back in the same position, just bump the starter and the distributor will usually fall in the rest of the way.
That's what I thought, but no luck. Ron
Had the one with the Pertronix in the car, and could not get it to fire, or run. Am putting the new one, with the points back in, but no luck getting it down over the oil pump shaft. I get it down to where the dist. gear and cam gear engage, but no luck getting it to go any further. Any help appreciated. Ron
Quote from: Rocket on July 09, 2019, 07:03:22 PM
Had the one with the Pertronix in the car, and could not get it to fire, or run. Am putting the new one, with the points back in, but no luck getting it down over the oil pump shaft. I get it down to where the dist. gear and cam gear engage, but no luck getting it to go any further. Any help appreciated. Ron
Use a oil pump priming shaft to turn the oil pump drive so that it is indexed the same as the end of the distributor. Sold at speed shops on line etc. you can also use a thin wall socket on a extension however that can be risky as they can separate and fall into the engine. I can't post picture but here is one on ebay . https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-PUMP-PRIMER-TOOL-1-4-Hex-FORD-Engine-289-302-390-428/372639484467
...or you can make one if you have an old distributor to use as a core. Just remove the guts from the housing, then weld a 3/8 socket to the top of the shaft. Great tool to use with a speed wrench to prime the oil pump, get oil to the rocker arms, etc.
Since the shaft turns when the gears engage, how do you know how to index the shaft to match the oil pump shaft? Ron
Quote from: Rocket on July 09, 2019, 08:42:23 PM
Since the shaft turns when the gears engage, how do you know how to index the shaft to match the oil pump shaft? Ron
Trail and error.If it doesn't engage then move it a little more etc. etc.
Just a note to let everyone know that I got the distributor in, finally, and 550 is back up and running. Thanks to everyone for the help, and thoughts. Ron