Besides the fact Shelby deleted the oil pressure sender and had clipped the lead as delivered I elected to locate a brass fitting so I could maintain not only the mechanical oil pressure gauge. I like the idea of redundancy when it comes to instrumentation. Perhaps because I am used to it on aircraft.
I find a big red light in the bottom of the tach also tends to get your attention at a quick glance.
Did anyone else elect to install the sender during their restoration?
-Keith
I did not install the standard oil pressure switch during my restoration in 1990. Have not had any problems, but I did replace the tubing in 2010. After 20 years it seemed like it was a good thing to do.
Greek
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on September 26, 2019, 06:14:07 PM
Besides the fact Shelby deleted the oil pressure sender and had clipped the lead as delivered I elected to locate a brass fitting so I could maintain not only the mechanical oil pressure gauge. I like the idea of redundancy when it comes to instrumentation. Perhaps because I am used to it on aircraft.
I find a big red light in the bottom of the tach also tends to get your attention at a quick glance.
Did anyone else elect to install the sender during their restoration?
-Keith
It is something that is occasionally done on 65-67 Shelby's given the mechanical gauges used in those cars. FYI the idiot light functions or lights up when there is virtually zero pressure. Typically the possible damage is already done especially at anything over idle. I myself think it is wasted effort because of that . Just me.
I've run different OP switches in race cars when I wanted a different threshold than 3-7 PSI for switch closing.
Here is one from Jegs that has a 20 psi threshold:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar-Performance/049/ALL99059/10002/-1
The light would then alert you to look at the gauge to see what's really going on.
Here is the mother of all oil pressure switch sites:
https://wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php
I really like the AIM dashes where you can set an alert to ANY desired oil temp, pressure, water, etc. Ok, I've wandered off the pier...
Bob: They are set at 5-7 PSI. If you're turning high RPMs you're right. However, the mechanical gauge requires more than just a quick glance in daylight.
It was 15.00 to put it in place. I went ahead and did it.
-Keith
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on September 26, 2019, 09:41:40 PM
Bob: They are set at 5-7 PSI. If you're turning high RPMs you're right. However, the mechanical gauge requires more than just a quick glance in daylight.
It was 15.00 to put it in place. I went ahead and did it.
-Keith
I am aware that it lights up at approximately 5-7 lbs of pressure which is too low to make much of a difference IMO. That is why I said it was virtually zero
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 26, 2019, 08:07:04 PM
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FYI the idiot light functions or lights up when there is virtually zero pressure.
Like I said previously, I think it is a waste of time but that is just me . It is your car so if it gives you piece of mind then by all means do it.
10 psi per 1,000 rpm is what is thought necessary, so 7 psi at 700 rpm idle would be marginally safe. Enough to let you move the car.
Race cars typically use warning lights to get the driver's attention. I think the warning light is a good idea on everything.