Hi, I bought a 1969 GT350 in parts. The wiring was cut, spliced and burnt. I bought all new wiring and have power to console through the Shelby wire feed. On Cobranda website there is an ammeter junction block wiring diagram. I have it wired as shown, but there is a red wire shown that was not in the wiring kit. My question is where do I get the power wire and where does it go as I assume it powers the fuse block which I have no power to. I can make the power wire if needed. Any help is appreciated. Wiring obviously not my thing. Thanks.
If it is like my 1967 Shelby it has a two-wire feed that is 10 Gauge Red and Black. One goes to the battery side of the solenoid, the other to the isolator block. The alternator wiring that would normally go to the battery side is attached to the block.
I am sure someone with a 69-70 car will be able to confirm the wiring.
This one ? The red one on the selenoid?
Not suppose to be red. They are both black.
https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-13525187779972/ammeter.pdf
Here a pic of my old original one
That wiring diagram doesnt apply to 69. You basically are removing the regular 69 Mustang feed (14290) that normally mounts to the starter solenoid and mounting it to the terminal block. And then using the Shelby specific harness (14290 AUX) - ie the Shelby wire feed as you call it - thick Black wire mounts to the starter solenoid, then the G/B return mounts to the terminal block.
You are now running all the current through the ammeter before distributing it to the rest of the car.
Surely, the place you bought this wiring from can help.
My issue is in the console then. I will trouble shoot there. I contacted the company that sold me the looms and they sent me to the manufacturer. The manufacturer/owner told me "I make the product I'm not a mechanic". Thanks for the help!
What company made your wiring?
I would also be interested to know where you are getting the great customer service.
Fuse box power is totally independent of any console wiring on the 1969 Shelby.
If you have new wiring there should be no need to "make" anything.
If you have no power, it could be the ampmeter itself. You can jump both amp 10 gages wires together to test.
Do you have your amp meter connected? the power need go through the meter before into the fuse block. Have to rewire a GT-350 the previous owner done. bought a diagram from www.classiccarwiring.com it shows in color and solved the mystery.
According to the Shelby supplement wiring book I have I believe I have everything connected right. I also have the ammeter junction block wires according to cobranda website I believe. I will take pictures of wires I can't find in book. All wiring is new except the plugs going to fog/interior switches. There is a what appears to be a black jumper wire at the gauges, blue/white wire that runs lighter and a female red/blue that comes out of male connection. I am including pictures. Thanks for the help!
I think a stud is missing behind your gauges for bulbs ground !!! As your third pic wire should go.
The blue/red wire come out of fuse box going to instr light, clock light, radio light, heater light if that helps
Quote from: dream car on March 30, 2020, 12:57:26 PM
The blue/red wire come out of fuse box going to instr light, clock light, radio light, heater light if that helps
+1 and ashtray light
I have power to most of it now. The ground wire that goes to the center stud on the oil gauge where does the mate go. Only 2 studs on the amp gauge. Thanks for the help.
Sulely someone here has pic of the back side of a Faria amp ?
I don't have a photo and don't have access to my diagrams but I have done this before. This is going from memory so I may be wrong. I think the original gauge cup for the alternator gauge had a threaded ground post on it, which is where one ground wire goes. The other ground goes to the oil pressure gauge itself. So you will need the original metal gauge cup(s) to ground it the way it was done at the factory.
The ground is for the light bulb only.
Thanks for the help. I found that I was being apparently overly cautious and did not have the main fuse block as tight as I should. Put some extra turns on it and it had power. Also once figured out I needed the 4plug that goes back into itself on the firewall I had ignition. Buying one in parts with cobbled back together wiring to go by has been interesting. Again thanks for the help and ideas.