SAAC Forum

Quote from: Richstang on December 09, 2020, 11:24:46 PM
The '67 K code Mustangs have always had my attention. It's hard to believe there is no registry already underway.

Recently I started gathering Marti ELITE Reports. (The DELUXE reports don't offer enough info for these cars)
It's an attempt to get a breakdown in the numbers past the body styles and transmissions, into the paint and trim.
It's going to be a long time before I can fill in the blanks on such a low production Mustang with only 489 produced.

I have the Elite report on my 67 K. Would be happy to share the breakdown numbers on mine. Please send me a PM. Thanks!

Quote from: Shawn on December 09, 2020, 07:34:56 PM
If I'm reading it correctly "The 289 high Performance Mustang"  by Tony Gregory Fourth Edition - Print 2006 has the following statistics:

73 Known to exist 1967 K Code Mustangs

Purchased a 67 K last year, first Mustang I've owned and enjoyed finding out how rare it is. Curious if this number is correct? A registry for these cars would be a great idea.

Quote from: sg66 on September 29, 2020, 09:28:55 AM

Quote from: Horsman on September 28, 2020, 10:06:31 PM

Quote from: sg66 on September 27, 2020, 02:18:39 PM

Quote from: Horsman on September 27, 2020, 10:43:19 AM
Thanks for the information.

Any ideas why the second install is still leaking oil?

Two guesses:

1. There is a nic in the area of the block that the plug goes into maybe from when a previous one was removed
2. The plugs are out of tolerance. Are they made in the US or are they off-shored where close enough is good enough

Checked for a nic when I installed the first plug, all looked good.

Engine builder provided the plugs both times, I feel they are probably not US made. Any recommendations for a good US product?

I've always had good luck with Dorman. I checked their website and they recommend two cam expansion plugs for a 289 which seems strange:

1. 555-051 which is 2 3/16
2. 555-070 which is 2 1/8

Their site says both are 0.060" oversized

I would go with the 555-051 but you may want to first call their tech support line to see why they list 2 different sizes 1-866-933-2911

Thanks for the information. Much appreciated!

Quote from: sg66 on September 27, 2020, 02:18:39 PM

Quote from: Horsman on September 27, 2020, 10:43:19 AM
Thanks for the information.

Any ideas why the second install is still leaking oil?

Two guesses:

1. There is a nic in the area of the block that the plug goes into maybe from when a previous one was removed
2. The plugs are out of tolerance. Are they made in the US or are they off-shored where close enough is good enough

Checked for a nic when I installed the first plug, all looked good.

Engine builder provided the plugs both times, I feel they are probably not US made. Any recommendations for a good US product?

Thanks for the information.

Any ideas why the second install is still leaking oil?

I had an oil leak at the rear cam plug, then installed a new cam plug with sealant and it still is leaking, see pics.

My engine builder used a 2 5/32 inch plug, wondering if it is the wrong size.

Thanks in advance.

Quote from: shelbydoug on August 08, 2020, 08:36:39 PM

Quote from: Horsman on August 08, 2020, 08:35:02 PM
Better pic. 

I have 12V going directly to the Pertronix, made a jumper harness that plugs in between the ignition switch and the tachometer connector.

Sure but the tach has to be all by itself without anything spliced or attached to it.

The pink wire needs to be by itself also since it now is the tach sensor wire. You can't splice anything into it.

Please take a look at my first picture. The bottom left corner of the picture shows the male end of the resistance wire. That wire goes directly to the tachometer on the opposite end. The original resistance wire has never been cut. The added orange wire with the female bullet connector end was soldered to that red wire for some reason, my resistance wire was plugged into that orange wires female end.  If you look close you can see a small portion of pink wire that has been cut off the black connector in the pic. I guess I'm trying to figure out how the male side of the resistance wire plugged in somewhere in the kick panel on the driver side. Was there a female bullet connector that was chopped off at that small nub that was accepting the male end of the resistance wire?

Better pic.  Trying to figure out what happened here.

I have 12V going directly to the Pertronix, made a jumper harness that plugs in between the ignition switch and the tachometer connector.

Thanks for the help. This is my first Ford so I am learning a lot. Prior to my ownership of the car it had been sitting for over 40 years in storage but only has 20,000 original miles.  Car was drag raced most of its life. Since going through the drivetrain, I got the car running and I've put approximately 100 miles on it trouble free with a working tach. Since the car left me stranded, I started looking around, followed the pink resistance wire over to the kick panel area and saw a big blob of electrical tape. I unwrapped the tape, found where the red wires insulation had been stripped back and someone soldered that orange wire with the female bullet connector. It was plugged in to the pink resistance wire. In my pic I see a small nub of pink wire on the black plug. Was there at one time a female plug attached at that pink nub? I don't understand why the original owner had done this poor modification, thinking this might be why I am intermittently loosing spark.

On my 67 Mustang GT equipped with a tachometer, was wondering what someone was trying to do here, see pic ? I have been trying to isolate a problem why my car will stop running for no apparent reason. I was following the pink resistance wire from the connection at the back of the tach over to the driver kick panel area, noticed what appears to be the pink wire cut and someone stripped back the wiring then added the orange wire with female connector plugged into the resistance wire from the tachometer. I am running a Pertronix with 12 V going to the distributor with a jumper harness in between the ignition switch and tachometer input. I appreciate the help.

I installed the Marti 5/16" fuel line kit and clamps on my 67 Mustang GT, leaked at the tank and fuel pump immediately, very disappointing. I ended up using fuel line from the local parts store that fit perfect and was not going to degrade with the ethanol found in todays fuels.

My apologies for the confusion, I was looking for a bar for a non competition suspension 1967 Mustang GT. Found one on the Concours Mustang forums, thanks for looking for me.

Quote from: The Going Thing on May 28, 2020, 03:09:10 AM
I may have a spare '67 15/16" bar in my storage. I have to fly this weekend. I won't be able to get over there until Tuesday and I can let you know if you don't find one before.

I appreciate you checking.

Needing OEM front sway bar and brackets. Thanks in advance.

Removed off a dry 67 GT Mustang. Both still have original hardware included. Great for that concourse restoration. $250 OBO plus shipping. Parts are located in north Texas.