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Messages - Drew Pojedinec

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1
The Lounge / Re: Attention: Scammers on this website
« on: October 11, 2019, 12:56:09 PM »
Somewhat in this vain, one of my customers is the head of fraud at Paypal.
He is a car nut like the rest of us, he takes scammers very seriously, if you ever have a problem with someone ripping you off, even if it was paid via "friends and family" let me know and I will put you in contact with him.
You'll need your transaction number, etc.

Good dude.

2
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 18, 2019, 11:08:08 AM »
Also, just to clarify, would these adjustments apply equally to an FE or 289/302? And for flat tappet as well as solid rollers?

Not Doug, but clearance is clearance.
You can always recheck hot to see how much it has changed if curious. Valve lash can be a tuning tool as well (although a fairly minor one)

Gets real interesting setting up an aluminum block, aluminum head engine 😂

3
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 18, 2019, 10:08:18 AM »
I always set cold for the reasons you mention.
At work I regularly do valve adjustments on 16 cylinder two stroke industrial engines, it would be impossible to have all of them evenly warm as it often takes several hours. Many engines do not have hot settings due to this.

I was not telling the original poster he was wrong, simply providing an alternative method that I think is better.
As far as precision, professional methods yield professional results.


4
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 17, 2019, 11:35:18 AM »
I'm old but I'm always willing to learn.  Please explain why EOIC is better than adjusting when both E and I are fully closed at TDC.

Look at this diagram:
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZBgzqPABU2vHypLMA

You are trying to set via tdc when the lifters are between the lobes. This is fine for a very mild stock engine. With performance cam separation angle, overlap, and more duration make it to where the lifter edge can reduce clearance for either valve at tdc.
By setting via EOIC you are setting on he base circle instead of the other end, thus assuring lifter is fully down.
Sure it is harder to rotate the engine so many times, but doing one valve in order makes it very hard to miss one.

5
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 17, 2019, 02:26:43 AM »
I second EOIC that's how I was taught and my turd still runs.

It works so well because it assures the cam being on the base of the lobe. With a performance cam, TDC method is imperfect.
The only time I use TDC is when a fresh engine needs a basic valve setting prior to cam break in. In that scenario, perfect setting is less important than keeping the break in lube from wiping off.
After cam break in, reset via EOIC.

Either way, I applaud your creativity. Good luck, and thanks for sharing.

6
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 16, 2019, 04:33:13 PM »
Or set via EOIC (my preference, as it is foolproof)
Or get some timing tape, would be a little more accurate as your method allows for stacking of imperfect measurements.

7
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Hard starting
« on: September 08, 2019, 02:54:54 PM »
Hey Keith, can you provide a link, phone number, business name... or whatever for Drew Pojedinac. I'd like to save this high recommendation for future reference, but a quick Google search didn't find this guy.

Thanks,
Steve

Hi Steve. You can pm me on this forum.
Even if you want to do the rebuild yourself, hit me up with any questions or issues, be happy to help.
That said, take the advice above and go through the ignition first. A large amount of carb issues are actually weak ignition problems.

8
This is what a vintage intake looks like when it is new. Notice the dull somewhat porous texture. How you get to this point is the challenge.

That is pretty much what blasting it with Garnet looks like.

About two year ago I bought a dozen different medias to try on a dozen intakes, trying to chase that look.

9
I clean with carb or brake cleaner and soda blast them.
Glassbeads do leave it too shiny, and there is the possibility of the beads embeding.

If really really nasty, I will blast with garnet and reblast with soda.

10
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Isky or crane fe adjustable rockers
« on: August 28, 2019, 05:35:43 PM »
Scott, have you tried any if the newly made factory style adjustables?
I have seen them for sale in the $250 range and am too scared to try them out on any engine I like.

11
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Isky or crane fe adjustable rockers
« on: August 28, 2019, 11:09:28 AM »
Nothing wrong with factory adjustables.
I run them with POP stands, spacers, crane adjusters.
.615 lift

12
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: BJ/BK Carburators
« on: August 25, 2019, 06:32:32 AM »
Well..... I didnít have anything better to do 😀


Just trying to keep kids off EFI.

13
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Holley Carb Restoration Shops
« on: August 24, 2019, 09:42:25 PM »
Allstate has some good folks. Iíve never seen their restores (which is a good sign, lol).
I buy a lot of parts from Jim at allstate.

14
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: BJ/BK Carburators
« on: August 24, 2019, 06:49:43 PM »
List 1850-1 has the correct throttle shafts but you need to install the trunnions. I make them on the lathe for psuedo reproductions. You also need to drill a hole to install the trunnions in the lower position. Both trunnions low for low riser linkage, one high one low for MR linkage.

ďMostĒ 1850-2ís have universal throttle shafts. You can use with the medium riser linkage and the predrilled hole, but you cannot have them progressive, they will be much close to 1:1.
This isnít a deal breaker, but obviously lacks some of the benefits of the factory setup.

15
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Holley Carb Restoration Shops
« on: August 24, 2019, 03:24:11 PM »
Oh and not just 2x4ís, I just lack much free time. Last year I restored 125 carbs, so I only do Ford 1960ís stuff if possible.

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