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Messages - 67350#1242

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1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Autolite 4100 C6ZF F
« on: December 20, 2020, 11:20:33 PM »
There are 2 places where a 4100 can leak - accelerator pump and power valve.  If fuel is leaking out of either cover it will be pretty easy to spot.  The covers also often warp due to over tightening and will be difficult to get to seal without straightening.
If acc. pump diaphragm is bad it will leak out when throttle is pressed.
Bad power valve will allow fuel bowl to drain down into the manifold and will empty fuel bowl when parked - this will cause hard starting due to either flooding or empty fuel bowl depending on how long the car has been shut off.
If you cant find any leaks on the outside (or if there is no obvious raw fuel smell) I would strongly suspect power valve - even new ones can be bad out of the box.

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Holley 715 CFM #3259 float level adjustment
« on: November 03, 2020, 11:04:06 PM »
Can the metering block be ultrasonic cleaned without removing the caps?

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Holley 715 CFM #3259 float level adjustment
« on: November 02, 2020, 02:52:10 PM »
I wonder if the ethanol fuels require a lower fluid level in the bowl or if  the fluid level should be the same but that the density of the fuel requires a lower float dry setting? Or maybe a combination of both.

I think you are correct about that.  Less dense fuel will make the float ride lower in the fuel - causing a higher actual fuel level before being cut off at the needle.

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Holley 715 CFM #3259 float level adjustment
« on: October 31, 2020, 09:52:15 PM »
It is possible that the float bracket is tweaked such that the float will contact the front of the bowl before fully seating on the needle.  This can be fixed by bending the bracket such that the float is moved away or outward from the bowl.  This adjustment is not done with the tang that contacts the seat, but where the bracket makes a 90 degree bend.  Readjust the tang afterwards to set the float level to spec.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Hard hot starting
« on: September 23, 2020, 11:30:32 AM »
Does the tach read properly when cold?  Could try bypassing it to see if it fixes the hot start problem.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Brake duct tubing
« on: September 11, 2020, 09:50:13 AM »
I found one on Ebay.  The seller says it has metal ribbing.

Looks close but not exact - take a look and see if it will work for you.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Brake duct tubing
« on: September 09, 2020, 05:35:54 PM »
I bought a Gates 23848 hose a few years ago and it no longer had the metal ribbing but was a plastic ribbing.  May be able to find older stock with original metal ribs but should ask first if that is what you want.  The photo posted may be older design.

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Holley 715 CFM #3259 float level adjustment
« on: August 26, 2020, 09:43:23 AM »
The rear fuel level is set lower than the front to prevent spillover into secondaries when braking hard so the 1/2" measure top of float to top of bowl was the original spec. and  3/8" for the front.
I suggest adding at least 1/16" to these measurements to lower fuel levels a little more for today's fuels.
Set the primary transition slot to "square".  This should be pretty close to 1 full turn of the primary idle screw after it contacts the tang on the throttle rod.   Set the secondary butterflies to completely closed and just bump the secondary idle screw so the plates won't bind in the bores - you want secondary closed as possible.  This way the primary is in control of the idle.

When setting idle speed try not to move the primary idle screw more than about 1/8 turn.  If idle too low try bumping the timing to increase it. Goal is to keep the transition slot very close to square.
These are the steps I have taken to dial in my 3259.  Shelbydoug is right the carb is too big but these steps should help to make it easier to live with.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Alternator wiring help
« on: August 19, 2020, 01:52:00 PM »
Pretty sure that is the bat+ lead from alternator that goes to ammeter junction block.

Appeals / Re: need your help with ideas on what could be wrong
« on: August 17, 2020, 02:16:26 PM »
You can run a jumper from battery + to coil +.  Try to start then.  If it does the problem is ignition switch, bad tach, or open wiring from ignition to coil.  Don't let it run too long with the jumper.

Appeals / Re: need your help with ideas on what could be wrong
« on: August 15, 2020, 09:36:59 PM »
One more thing to check - tachometer.  The run circuit passes through it.  An open tach will cause similar problem. You will have spark during crank but goes away during run.  The tach can be bypassed by pulling the leads and plugging the 2 harness leads together.

The bell housing appears to be the correct application.  Also the original starter cone pictured appears to be correct.  Are you sure the starter drive (bendix) on original starter was moving outward upon engagement?

To get the car started tonight, I tried a rebuilt starter, but it was 3/100Ē bigger than my original starter and didnít mate up to the flex plate.

Was this rebuilt starter a "long nose" or a "short nose" style? From the pictures the distance from the block plate to the ring gear appears to be about 3/4" which would indicate a long nose style.
The short nose style also has a slightly larger flange on the mounting surface to block plate as you indicate above.
Forget about "auto" and "manual" lingo when describing these starters.  The 157 and 160 tooth ring gears all require the "auto" or "long nose" starters. This applies to both auto and manual transmission.
The only application for the "short nose" or "manual" starter is with the larger diameter 164 tooth flywheel manual trans.  Here is a link to Speedway Motors pdf explaining.

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: tilt solenoid
« on: August 08, 2020, 03:47:20 PM »
A little confused by your posts.  Is this problem with the tilt wheel vacuum solenoid or with the starter solenoid?

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: What did you do to your '67 today?
« on: July 20, 2020, 11:17:02 AM »
Thanks for the link.  I suppose the question is how much do you want to trust 54 year old motor mounts vs recent manufactured items?

There are no present correctly fitting aftermarket insulators for the original 67 frame mounts...    Your best option for reliability is to switch to 68 frame mounts - then lots of new aftermarket insulators will fit.   

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