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Messages - Bossssssss

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1
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 23, 2020, 03:29:01 PM »
I would remove as much material as needed to mount the clips. IIRC I drilled my holes through the screw holes on the cover and then ground away the 'glass panel as needed so the clips when installed were aligned with the holes. Gary

Thank you Gary. That sounds like a great approach. I am going to implement the same procedure.

thanks again,
Mark

2
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 04:43:17 PM »
Thanks Peter and Gary. So if I read you correctly, I would need to install the U-shaped clip around the cut I just made such that aligns with each of the 4 (four) side holes I drilled into the side panels for mounting the cover.  Is this correct?

Also, what about the one hole on the bottom/base of the side cover that goes horizontally (down)? I assume the same thing?  When I cut my panels I took off minimal material and kept fitting them as I went. I did not/don't have a template so I am not sure how close I am to the original cuts that the factory did. What I do know is I probably have more material than they did as mine are a very tight fit right now and require a bit of finagling to get them installed and or removed. I think the bottom hole would require me to remove more material toward the inside of the car (in order to get a u-shaped clip installed).

thanks again for any insight.


3
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 01:18:01 PM »
Thank you Peter. I also looked at Marcus Anghel's interior panel ID document and in it he shows a picture in the lower right of a 69 interior panel with the cover attached:

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/quarter_trim_panels_v1.1.pdf

It appears the the one screw/screw hole (on the right/forward of cover and top, ie top right in picture) that is normally used for attaching the panel on non-Shelby's is also used to secure the cover to the panel and the panel to the car. The other fasterners appear to be screws but those would not have holes drilled into the car (so yes I assume some sort of clip on the back side to hold the screw in while securing the cover to the panel). I will check around on AMK's site.

Thank you again for your help!
 

4
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 12:42:16 PM »
Hi Gents,
I am installing an original '69 (fastback) Shelby roll bar in my '70 Boss 302.

What fasteners are used to attach the fiberglass covers to the rear fiberglass interior panels?  Do they sell whatever is used  - need to get this project buttoned up.

TIA

Bossssssss

5
Parts For Sale / '67 GT-500 Original Valve Covers - Restored
« on: August 04, 2020, 01:46:52 PM »
Hi Gents,

NO issues ever. Fully restored and are ready to bolt on.

These are a work of art and are for the most discriminating buyer and are ready for the best of best '67 500 restoration.

Pics avail.

$850 plus shipping.

Bigbadboss302@yahoo.com

Thanks for the space.

6
Hey JD - thanks for all your help. Yes that last item you posted from NPD will do the trick for me. Going to place an order for the two fitting and steel line from them. You Rock and Thanks again!

7
verified the line at NPD is correct for a 67 350

Its Classic Tube part number MUO1002-SC

Link to Classic Tube:
https://classictube.com/product/shelby-gt350-350-289-cid-v8-brake-booster-vacuum-lines-1967/

Link to same part number sold by NPD:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/vacuum-line-brake-booster-stainless-steel-by-classic/104346?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%252Bline%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1967&year=1967

So I just need the one fitting with the W on it. I don't necessarily need to have the W on it, but I would like to find that part so it looks reasonable correct and most important (to me) is that it (meaning the car) is working properly.


9
Thanks JD. By the way, my car is a 4 speed (forgot to mention that) as I think the connection/routing may be different between a manual trans vs automatic trans.

If you find those links that would be great.
 
thanks again!

10
Hey Gents - need to ask you another technical question. This time on the vacuum line that runs between the power brake booster and (I believe) to the back of the (Cobra) intake manifold.

I need to know what is correct and what the vacuum line consists of.

On one end, I know there is a rubber line that connects to the check valve on the booster, but what does the other end of the rubber line connect to?

Does the rubber hose connect directly to a fitting that is screwed into the Cobra intake? or does it connect to a steel tube which then is supposed to connect (somehow) to the Cobra intake?  I pasted a link below of the tube in question (which is for a 67-68 small block Mustang), but I assume this is not needed on a Shelby due to the alum Cobra intake?  A pic would be worth a thousand words.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/vacuum-line-brake-booster-stainless-steel-by-classic/104346

Thanks in Advance!


 

11
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 11:29:39 AM »
You guys are the best. Thanks for all your help and I do appreciate all your input and time to respond!

12
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:43:09 AM »
Thanks Doug - I will do some research on 10" pressure plate ratings (I do realize the springs are what makes of the pressure and not the diameter, but just was thinking since a 10" was used in the regular 289 that it would not need to have a higher pressure rating as a hipo one which may be larger, but not sure). Thanks again for your help.

13
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:25:06 AM »
Thanks ShelbyDoug.

My plan is to keep the pressure plate stock as long as I can find one. I am not going to put in anything where its going to twist up the equalizer arm as I am just doing a one for one replacement.

I do have experience in other cars going to high perf pressure plates and I know what you mean. Next thing you know, after the equalizer arm reinforcement comes the firewall and under cowl area. It never ends when you start modifying.

Thanks again for the help

Did you miss the point? The stock 2,600 pound clutch ONLY existed off of the production line. All replacements START at 2,800, which in my case I found even that bent the equalizer.

You need to find your own way. I'm just trying to save you some major pain and disappointments. Happy Trails.  ;D

I did miss it at first but reposted (post #10) asking if you think I might find a 2600lb one in 10" size? Do you know the original clutch size? Maybe someone downsized mine as mine is 10" - probably the lo-po version LOL.

14
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:23:00 AM »
That darn eq arm is a mystery....what would be the difference between the regular small block and a hipo, is it just that it is stronger? My GT350 was a manual and I put it back to auto, in looking at my bar, it appears to have metal welded to it, if that the difference?

BTY BOSSSSSSS, that is my NY Plate!

Now that is interesting because I ran that NY plate for many years in the 80's. I still have those old plates too. I live in the Binghamton area. Where are you located?

Mine has the MAX of 8 characters.
I had that EXACT plate in the 80's max characters in in NY LOL - I let it expire many years ago. You may have seen it at one of the shows? I did a lot of shows in the 80s and early 90's in NY.

15
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:20:27 AM »
Hi ShelbyDoug - where the factory clutches 10" or a different size? The equalizer arm in there now looks like it has been beefed up and the car only has a 10" clutch. I will probably just stick with the 10" clutch size and find new replacement disc and pressure plate. Maybe I can find a pressure plate in the 2600 lb weight in a 10" size?

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