SAAC Forum

Agree with all mentioned.
That said, the Monte Carlo bar is perhaps the most useful upgrade for a "driver" caliber car.
The straight bar fits perfect with original dual point distributor and dual quad intake.

Quote from: Coralsnake on December 02, 2023, 10:20:35 AM
Really sorry to hear this. It must be very frustrating after all that time. I'm very glad no one was hurt.

Thanks for the good wish.  For reference to other, classic vehicle owners, this is the extinguisher type mentioned.  I was amazed how well it knocked down the massive flames.  But being unable to get thru the wall of flames to open the hood was impossible to fully extinguish before emptying.

I hesitate to suggest the obvious, but a premium extinguisher is the cheapest insurance you can buy.  As related to me, you may never need it, but rescuing someone trapped in a burning car can avoid a lifetime of nightmares.

https://www.amerex-fire.com/upl/downloads/library/amerex-purple-k.pdf

A year ago my early Bronco was consumed in a fire.  The Holley Sniper fuel injection pressure regulator ruptured creating a fireball.  My wife and I were lucky to escape.  Emptying a 10 lb, P-type extinguisher intended for petroleum fire was futile.

The Bronco was a 15 year build.  Money and labor were no object.  Completely without compromise at every detail.  Perhaps being one of the best engineered and assembled in the country.  (I own an aerospace manufacturing business.) Before putting it on the road, insured it for $80K thru Safco.  All they required were detailed photos of the vehicle and garage it was stored.  The fire occured the 2nd week it was registered.

I had a check for the full amount within two weeks.  A car hauler dispatched by Copart soon arrived to drag the hulk away.  Calling Copart learned it was at a lot in Mass and I could bid on it when auctioned.  A day or so later got a follow up call from Safeco.  The gal asked if I was pleased with the settlement.  I replied I was more than impressed having expected to litigate.  She asked if I had any questions to which I asked about the potential for buy back.  She said "absolutely." That before it was dragged away I should have been given the opportunity of a negotiated, residual value.  She suggested $1000 with Copart delivering back to my home.   Hell yeah!!!!!  (The engine alone had $20K invested)

Today, a full restoration is in process.

I'll pass.  Only venture where my HK is welcome.

Interesting thread with many sound suggestions.  All I can offer is my own experience.  I owned a '68 with a 302 prepared using the period, Muscle Parts program. Built as the stage 5, Dominator kit. Advertised as 155 HP increase.  Essentially a 302 block, 351W 4V heads cut for GT40 valves, C90Z-6109 pop-up forged pistons,  Boss 302 balancer, dual point distributor, C7FE-6250-A "LeMans" cam. Rotating assembly was properly balanced.  The car was an absolute blast to drive. Easily lay waste to a 396 Camaro. Other than the tube headers and Holley carb, appeared stock. I am in the process of building a clone with an aluminum block. What's not to like about a Ford that turns heads and backs it up with impressive HP?

In much of northern Vermont there are no police on duty after 10 PM.  I-91 south of the Canadian boarder is empty that time of day.  Has become an exotic car playground.  Of course, if you survive an excursion into the woods or a ravine, likely to be there till mowing season.  Even with Z-rated tires and lowered suspension, I have no interest in driving a Shelby Mustang a 160 MPH ever again.

Wonder if there is a way to clear that memory log?  I ordered a basic, work series truck with no GPS/Sync just to avoid compiling data to be used against me.

I almost botched a paint job recently due to solvent pop.  Laid down 3 clear coats exactly within window of doing base coat.  Bubbles soon appeared, collapsing into tiny craters. Learned it's not an exact science regarding time intervals.  Blocked the clear with 600 grit to both remove craters and orange peal in clear.  Laid down 4 more coats of clear without issue.   The depth, and gloss were spectacular.  Later learned that's what custom painters call, flow coating.  Used an orbital palm sander to 8000 grit Trizac, followed by a Flex buffer with Sonax polish.  Net result is show stopping.

I ship freight most weeks.  Have had every imaginable experience.  Avoid brokers.  You have absolutely no idea who will be handling the item.  Even insured is impossible to collect against loss.
Of late, have been doing shipping online with YRC.  Their online rates are 1/2 anyone else.  Critical to crate freight to sustain a 5 foot drop.  Have insurance for full amount.  Purchase the Tip & Tell. and impact meters sold by McMaster-Carr and U-Line.  Just their impression being seen encourages safe handling. 
https://www.uline.com/Grp_332/Damage-Indicators?keywords=Tip-N-Tell+Indicators

Thanks for the great, first hand feed back.  Thinking we had done due diligence in choosing a positively reviewed transport company, discovered there are fake review sites run by scammers.

I have a collector vehicle ready now to be shipped from VT to Rapid City, SD.  Knowing this business is a minefield of crooks, am dumbstruck at the scams being perpetrated.  Will only consider owner/operators with verifiable, positive references.

Yes, I used the search function here first discovering no answers.

I have used the Koni Special D shocks on my '68 since purchase in '77.  As bought, it has Gabriel HiJackers.  I don't think those were original?
Anyhow, the Koni shocks are just fine, but can't compare to modern, gas shocks.  I guess since you're concerned with concours nonsense, perhaps a performance gas shock would be a better choice?

As  a manufacturer, my company attends SEMA each year to support distributors.  I spend the majority of time researching trade expertise for my personal projects.  Ford has two major exhibits.  In the main hall is a display of both new vehicles, and an impressive lineage of classics from which retro designs pay respect.  Outside is a large track surrounded by Ford Performance exhibits and Ford affiliates like Roush Racing.  The track exhibit is a profoundly asinine display of near constant drifting that only impress a 14 year old.   Both exhibits had electric vehicles,  Nobody, and I mean nobody gave a shit.  A rotted Fairmont would have got more attention.  I suspect mgmt is looking at the future and seeing SEMA is not a gateway.

I don't get it.  My '68 GT500 hasn't been registered is at least 20 years,  In pristine condition, sits covered in the man cave along with some other interesting cars.  I have no intent to drive it anytime soon, busy with more fun projects.  The car is not in any registry with very few people knowing it exists.  I've keep it out of sight for 45 years.  If I drop dead today, certain there would be exclamations of "BARN FIND!" by some bottom-feeding twit.  You missed the bus when these were piss cheap in the '70s.  The car is not lost, and its future is well accounted for.

Yes!  I exclusively us Loctite PST for threaded, fluid fittings.  Is a non hardening, PTFE paste.  Works flawless for such applications.  Critical to remove all contaminates form taped holes.
Also, retap threads with a precision, ground thread machinist thread tap.   Never, never use unground hardware store thread taps.
It maybe sacrilegious but I gave up building collector car engines with vintage fasteners.  I exclusively use ARP stainless steel threaded fasteners.  Purchase lengths to yield maximum thread engagement for hole depth.  We have all stared in horror of a broken water pump bolt or seized, FE exhaust manifold bolt.  Never again.