SAAC Forum

Quote from: 67350#1242 on February 20, 2024, 09:22:11 PM
I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral.  It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.   
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.

Try being being more deliberate about the shift out of reverse into neutral i.e. push forward gently until the shifter hits the stop before letting it spring back to center. If this resolves the issue then I'd say a minor adjustment on the reverse shift rod should help you, it did for me. I had a tendency to just push the shifter until it flopped over as soon as it could - resulting in the same condition you describe.

Just for the record (in case we're counting or something) I too got a vm recently from a number tracing back to the same outfit and individual... I didn't engage.

Quote from: mlplunkett on March 14, 2023, 04:05:14 PM
So does anyone know of a source for better quality repop panels?

Sometimes it's hard to get a comment from folks on repro parts around here so I'll offer my by-no-means expert opinion.

I think you'll find them all to be a compromise of one sort or another, it's up to you what you're willing to accept. I would've had my originals restored but for the cost and no guarantee of outcome held me back.

I looked at TMI, Mustang Exchange and Dashes Direct. I landed on the DD as the lesser of the 3 evils, yours and/or other opinions may, and likely will differ.

Quote from: 67350#1242 on March 07, 2023, 04:21:14 PM

Quote from: tesgt350 on March 07, 2023, 07:14:20 AM
https://www.mustangmarket.com/door.htm

Do Mustang Market panels have masonite (hardboard) backing?  Has anyone tried these?

Of the 3 manufactures I tried these were the least like originals in appearance imo, though as I recall they claim otherwise, and quality issues beyond panel flatness. They wouldn't take them back and I couldn't/wouldn't use them.

I don't remember if they were masonite backed or not but I could dig them out and look if you like.

Quote from: ShelbyBoss on February 19, 2023, 04:25:35 PM
...
Undeterred, I wrote an article  for the Mustang Times called "Getting There" where on 6 weekends 8 months before the show, I took my Boss 302 and I drove 1) over the New London CT ferry w/trailer, 2) over the Bridgeport CT ferry 3) over the Whitestone from the Bronx 4) From points West Over the George Washington Bridge to the Bronx then over the Throgs Neck Bridge w/trailer 5) through the Midtown Tunnel w/trailer 6) from points South over the Outerbridge Crossing to Staten Island to the Verrazano Bridge to the Van Wick w/trailer.
...

I've done all of those routes save for the NL ferry, and not in the Shelby, and not towing a trailer because that would be, well - just crazy - like hiding behind the chainsaws crazy : ) Some of those trips had to be brutal.

Slightly off topic but closely related - I've always wondered, and some of the images in this post raise it again, should the taillights be (i.e. intended to be from SA) horizontally aligned lens center parallel to panel center, top lines parallel or bottom lines parallel - I've seen all 3. And was the mounting kind of hit-and-miss at SA or mostly due to past and present owners during some sort of repair/refurbishment?

Awesome.

These are a pretty typical field crimp tool used across various industries, automotive included. The nib part of the jaw (closest to the hinge) crimps the wire in the connector/terminal, the middle die crimps the "insulation support" if the terminal is so fitted (a metal sleeve between the plastic insulation and the wire barrel), the end is a wire cutter... the worst ever conceived. The cutter is essentially a single cutting edge mating with a flat surface - bad, bad, bad.

I'm pretty sure these are still widely available. This pair is made by Burndy.

I can't imagine how many hundreds of thousands of terminals and connectors I've squeezed with this and other pairs now lost to time... and the sea lol. I started using them in the 70's and I'm fairly certain they would have been around when these cars were built. Can't comment if used by SA or not.

Quote from: 67 GT350 on April 19, 2022, 12:28:04 PM
I think by corrections the starter of this means, some have mis-information here and there, that's all....I have looked up my previous cars and friends cars and found errors most likely due to people not updating, and some missed. Not blaming just honest errors.

+1

Got my registry today - awesome! Somehow the wrong photo was used - bummer.

Thanks to all involved to produce and distribute the book. It's a difficult and tedious task I'm sure.

EDIT: Maybe a running updates and corrections topic? For example, at the time of the submittal (3+ years ago) #0066 did not have a correct for '67 rear axle housing and carrier... it does now.

Quote from: JD on December 29, 2021, 04:06:28 PM
All, DGSOH's car is hardly a "beater",  multi-year restoration on a car he's owned for decades years.  He's had a few interruptions that were out of his control, resulting in many "chef's" having their hands on it.  But he's getting it right now.

Hope 2022 is your year DGS.

Thanks JD - hope you and yours are well. And I hope 2022 is a year everyone can be proud of... we could all use one.

I had a couple of non-Shelby '68(s) before this car - those were definitely beaters so you just slapped $ht in and out as fast as you could to get it running/driving again. That was my reference. The Shelby is anything but today though truth be told, before the resto it was careening its way towards beater-dom.

I would be remiss to not mention all the assistance especially you JD, others on this forum and in the community have given in dragging it back to glory. It's been a slog but glad I did it. Also glad I'm just doing niggly, nitpicky things at this point. She's an imperfect, needy beast she is but what a blast to drive on the right road on the right day.

And yes, ownership anniversary of 35 years next month. It feels like a lifetime, or 2, ago.

Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 29, 2021, 10:35:01 AM
I have tested them by using the coil wire from the car, just as it is wired in the factory schematic. I once put three tachometers in series, while still using the one in the car. Started the car and tested the three on the fender - they matched the RPM of the one in the car and also matched my MATCO Tach / Dwell Meter.

Undoubtedly there is some way to synthesize the current to the coil but why bother if you have the car?

The car's pretty much put up for the winter and though technically it's ready to run I'd probably gas myself in the process... been there, done that - not pretty.

It's all back together now, I'll just wait until spring and hope for the best. I do have to say though, for what on the surface seems like an easy task, i.e. pulling and reinstalling the cluster, it's far more of a pita when worrying about scratches, dings, etc.. Not so bad on a beater.

Tip: Cut up a plastic 1/2 gal. milk jug for the flat sides then slide those between the cluster and the dashpad on both removal and reinstall. It'll prevent scuffing and scratching of the pad on those that are tight fitting like mine.

Quote from: shelbydoug on December 29, 2021, 08:30:12 AM
Unless you originally bent the pointer removing the cluster, it's more likely that it is the jewel movement that is screwed up.

I recently had my two tachs serviced and my '68 tach was working but not indicating over about 1,200rpm's.

My Tech found that the jewel movement was clogged with metallic dust and needed to be cleaned.

Before you go "re-alighning" your indicator needle, you need to have the jewel movement looked at for cleaning before you go and destroy the thing, BUT that is entirely up to you as the caretaker.

This is a situation where a little knowledge can be dangerous. I hope it works out well for you though?

Respectfully, please refer to my original post, this is the state the meter is in AFTER having paid out-the-wazoo for "professional" services. It should be noted perhaps that laying flat on the bench, the needle rests on 0 which would lead me to believe that's how it was done by the "professional".

Problem solved. Just had to be a little more aggressive on the bending than I was allowing myself on the first attempt. "Aggressive" being used as a relative term here, it's still a fairly delicate task.

Time to start those winter projects...

So I have the cluster out of the car and on the bench and for the life of me I can't get the needle to settle at 0. Bending the needle either way only makes it worse - which doesn't really make sense.

The small screw in the middle of the movement would typically be an adjuster but previous poster(s) have stated not so with these. But on the off chance I decided to give it a try... that made it worse as well.

Is there some way to rotate the face that I'm not seeing maybe?

Does anyone know of a good (safe) way to simulate the tach signal on the bench? I can live with it off zero when not running but would like it to be as accurate as it can be otherwise.


Thanks!