SAAC Forum

Looking to purchase a good 351W oil pan (factory / not aftermarket).  Please PM me.  Thanks

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(4) Goodyear tires removed from a car which did not drive many miles at all on the tires, per owner less than 200 miles.    Small knobbies are still on the tires.  $250 
Call 262-719-4047 
Local pick pick up desired, additional $50 if you want me to strap to a wooden skid.  For low cost truck transport, try R&L carriers - note buyer will deal 100% with R&L.   

Hello everyone,

The top on my 68' needs to be replaced to the original "white" top.

Looking for advice on which supplier to purchase the top and is there a specific color code to order in order to ensure I get the right color WHITE top? 

I believe one supplier, Robin, states they are the original supplier of the tops.  Is that correct?

Thanks in advance

Scott

Hello Fellow SAAC members - If anyone is driving from Ontario Canada to Detroit area,  I am in need of a car part to be transported.  Please call me at 262-719-4047.  Thanks Scott

Thanks - my tray was really beat up. Large holes which held the screws, missing driver front top side extension, hole in rear by where the hinge is located

I purchased a supplier repo part, figured "it is much better looking than my original"

A forum expert said "fix the original"

Gorilla epoxy, fiberglass matting, body fill putty and with time the old tray looks pretty good for a newbie. 

BUT that repo tray came in handy for the repairs since it has grain, not exactly as original but better than no grain. 

If any one needs pieces to fix theirs, send me message. You can have free just pay for the ride

And thanks to the expert that steered me in the right decision

The original trays are much more rigid than the repos

This is my tray after flocked

Make sure fuel is getting to fuel pump

You could disconnect the line at fuel pump
Take air blow nozzle thru a tennis ball - use that to gently pressurize the gas take to force fuel up to front of car. 

Also, you add fuel to the carb thru the tube on the carb inboard of the fuel bowls. Just the front bowl needs to be filled

As the one person said, get a rebuild kit and have someone go thru the carb to make sure it's clean

Here's a pic of the stud that came out of mine - again, I don't know for sure if it is original

Regarding the stud, on my console the stud looks to me like a carb linkage stud with a ball end, not tapered like the Branda.  I'm not saying mine is correct, all I know is that the clip is original and console is not a repo.  Previous owner could have swapped studs. I will post a picture, maybe someone can confirm if my stud is right

As far as the flocking goes, we just did ours.  Go to amazon and buy the flocking black material, the flocking tube applicator, and the black flocking glue.  If you are in Wisconsin, you can swing by and you can use my material.  I can flock from here to florida with all the flock I have.  it IS messy so don't be flocking in an area that you don't want this super fine material.  It is pretty cool when you get all done.  If you can keep your original console tray vs the repo out there I would do that, original is much better. They can be repaired with using pieces from a repo

I will try to post a pic of my stud tomorrow

I figured out the issue
Thanks to the forum member (s) that helped me out !

Maybe not a triplet but more like a brother from another mother........

I have this one which helps but  a true electrical schematic would be best

Hello Everyone
We started with a running driving car then decided to change out the complete wiring in the car, now after all installed, we have some issues with the ignition system (wont start or even turn over).  I go to try to start the car and besides the noise under the dash (see below) I get nothing under the hood and not much draw on the console AMP (alternator) guage.   The steering wheel is pulled down and in the position that I can tilt up and down.  I know if the tilt away is in the position  when you go to open the drivers door the car wont start. I am pretty sure the column is correct to enable the car to start.  If there is a way to verify this part of the starting circuit, please let me know.  Also we did not take out the column or the vacuum actuator - just replaced the wiring

I do have the Jim Osborn electrical books "but" the books do not show the Ignition electrical schematic w/ the tilt-away column included. 
What I am getting is this:
- solenoid sounding "click" under the dash when I turn the ignition to "on position"
- solenoid sounding "click" under the dash when I turn the ignition to "start position"
The sound is NOT coming from the vaccum actuator solenoid which communicates with the driver's door.  That is a separate "click" when you push the lower door jam switch in and out.

What I have tried to problem solve:
- Pulled vacuum actuator rod under dash which connects to the cable completely out and made sure the adjustment is pulled out
- Jumpered the Red w/ blue stripe 2 pin (male/female) connector on the engine harness side that plugs into the vaccum actuator under dash.

With the ignition "on" I am getting 6 volts at the distributor Coil - I do not know if that is normal or not. 

If someone has an actual electrical schematic of the ignition system w/ the tilt column that would be great.