SAAC Forum

Hello, looks like one of my wheels decided to part ways with a center cap.  Does anyone have one they would like to sell.  My email is gscommunications.greg@aol.com

Thanks!

I have seen a number of cars, original and restored that the rear end is lower than the front.  Were they like that from the factory or the result of springs loosing some curve?

I was having a discussion about seats for a GT350.  I always thought the seat back had the rib seam look but have been told smooth backs were also available, which is correct?  Thanks

Amazing machines, very blessed to be the caretaker of them and live in this great country!

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/a-second-state-has-announced-banning-gas-powered-cars/?fbclid=IwAR2J33ucH0tlYxEJGfXk-yV-OkRmIf7DOkq72fjP5gHhHvOaN2Q1wTTsnjE

Actually, a horse takes a S**t so I doubt that would be an acceptable means of transport either.  You folks that live in CA/NJ/NY need to change your law makers. 

Did I have this correct...

69's were riveted centers
70's weren't

If this is correct, how were the 70's center attached to the rim? 

Does anyone know anything about this kind of shifter knob? 

I have always been a fan of 69 and 70 Shelbys but I never seemed to find "the one" until recently.  I purchased a really nice 70 that is a good car and it checked out (as far as not having a reported checkered past) by Vincent.   

The car was restored by in the 90's and the engine has about 1500 miles on it since it was rebuilt.  I took it out for about a 200 mile journey and it ran great.  There is however a concerning issue (Maybe) as I am driving the car.  When I start out, the oil pressure reads about 50psi on the gauge (original gauges).  I know the gauge is powered by a sending unit which are known for their inaccuracies but it is stable at idle and starting out.  After about 10 miles running at about 2800 RPM the oil pressure guage starts to go berserk.  It goes from 50 to 20 to 0 and bounces like crazy but when I decelerate it goes back to 50 and stays steady till I accelerate again.  The gauge finally goes to 0 and when I decelerate again it goes back to 50.   

First, I don't know anything about the engine (other than it is original to the car) as I didn't build it but it runs great with no weird noises, smoke etc... therefore I am thinking there are two possible scenarios.

1)  The sending unit diaphragm is weak and under a prolonged state it starts to fail.
2)  Someone put a high pressure oil pump in it and it is draining the pan causing the jittering needle under load (but that doesn't explain the positive 50 psi under deceleration

I am new to the 69/70's so I before I start my treasure hunt I figured I would see if anyone else has traveled this path.

Thank you in advance for your help!
Greg

 

I don't know the number... maybe someone does and will share

https://www.legendarymotorcar.com/inventory/1965-shelby-gt350-2190.aspx?LMC_eMailer=1

1965 Shelby GT350
Wimbledon White With Factory Lemans Blue Stripes
Optional Cragar Wheels With Correct Blue Dot Tires
Factory Demonstrator When New
Rare Trunk-Mounted Battery Complete With "Cobra" Vented Battery Caps
Fully Documented Shelby; Nut And Bolt Rotisserie Restored
SAAC-42 Gold Award Winner And MCA Concours Gold
2019 Amelia Island Concours Class Winner
Greenbrier Concours D'Elegance Award


According to the Shelby American factory records, this chassis was received at the Shelby American Los Angeles CA. facility on May 12th, 1965. Work started on the same day and it was finished on May 20th, 1965. It was then shipped to Gene Hamon Ford in Texas City, TX and they were invoiced $3,944.25. It was then used by the dealership as a factory demonstrator. Being one of only 562 Shelby GT350's built in 1965, this special Shelby was delivered new with the early fiberglass porthole hood, COBRA vented battery caps, rare trunk mounted battery, Cragar Shelby wheels, and Le Mans stripes. It is powered by the prerequisite Hi-Po 289/306hp engine backed by the aluminum case T-10 4-speed transmission.

  Countless hours were spent to complete the total cost is no object concourse rotisserie restoration to SAAC/ MCA concourse specifications. The result is an award-winning restoration with achievements and accolades that very few other cars have ever attained. The paint has been polished and is show quality; great lengths went into the paint work to replicate a job just as the factory would have.  The interior is complete with correct dash mounted pod containing the  8,000 rpm tach and oil pressure gauges, factory racing lap belts, 15" wood rimmed steering wheel and factory radio delete plate. On a hoist and you will discover the undercarriage that has been finished to an absolutely outstanding quality, with floors finished in the correct factory style red oxide primer with body color overspray and blacked out pinch welds. As well the front and rear suspension has been painstakingly refinished just as it would have left the factory with correct finishes; including the paint dabs and chalk markings.  The overall look and unmistakable sound of the car comes from the factory side exiting exhaust just in front of the correct Blue Dot tires mounted on the optional Cragar wheels.

Enjoy

https://youtu.be/cic4Eg72Jxs

I know this isn't Shelby related but I know some folks like all brands performance.  I have a friend looking for an early Porsche 356 speedster, project, driver or done.  Just thought I would see if someone here possibly has one they want to part with or knows of someone that might. 

Please PM or email at gsanders@smythcountymachine.com 

I appreciate everyones time!

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2020/09/03/the-future-of-cars-is-in-the-culture?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-09-03


Take your cars out, show them, even if it is to a local show or cruise in and let kids set in them and get a picture. 

How that made a difference in the ride.  The ones on it had flat spotted from sitting for so long. 

I am so amazed at what a great car it is, I run it to 6K on the tach and it is like she wants to go to 7K or more.  It is easy to see why these cars were so loved back then and now. 

The guys at the tire place were very accommodating to me as I told them I need to drive it in and out and I need to show them where to put their jacks with pads.  They loved it and I am very blessed to be the caretaker.

This is the plug that is in my cobra oil pan and I wondered if it is the original assembly line item?

There were some really great pieces in that collection.  If anyone doubted the market paying for quality items, they should go look at it.  A CS autographed "Cobra Powered by Ford" Banner went for $53K, that was amazing!  I snagged a few items myself and I imagine most did, it was great to see.

I was having a discussion regarding assembly line coils.  Were they stamped Fomoco or Autolite for 65?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuGs52ps7Yo

Not mine.... all I can do is shake my head...(where is that emoji?)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REAL-1966-Shelby-GT-350-Autographed-Carroll-Shelby-Hood-SFM-1562-GT350/324184315669?hash=item4b7ae41715:g:-K4AAOSwNXpcz21n

During my research of exhaust systems on 65's I ran across this picture.  I have seen a number of cars restored to top level with fully painted black exhaust systems and in this picture it clearly shows that the headers and mufflers were black but the tail pipes were steel.  I also notice that the pony emblem in the grill isn't there in this picture but restored ones now have them, I can't imagine Ford leaving them off or SAI taking them off so what happened?

Thanks for the education!

Looking for a good used original or NOS for a 65 4 speed car.

Thanks, Greg