SAAC Forum

Got around to restoring a set of 795 marked painted 14x6 magnums.
Media blasted the face and inside and left the original paint alone on the inner rim.
Since paint codes are difficult to find I took a wheel in to a paint supplier and they have books of  PPG chips catalogued as wheel colors. I picked the closest one to the paint on the inside of the rim and did them in base clear with the clear being  a satin finish to match the paint on the inside of the rim

Here's your original manual
Vintage Original 1967 Shelby Mustang GT 350/500 Factory Owners Manual Automobile | eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335246425646

In restoring my 66 1127 I thought I'd share some info on some variations of wheels I have. If others have more info please share.
First are some pics of wheels ink stamped 36047 which I believe was the number for the 66 painted magnum. 14 inch
The only other marks are on the back side of the wheel on the center section a large 3 and D with a 3 in the center. There are no other markings anywhere. I have more than one of these all identical. The backspace is 3.5 inches
The paint which I believe is original around the rim where the stamp is is a matte / flat battleship grey.
Underneath the grey is a red primer.

Does anyone know how the magnums were painted?  In other words mine look like they were painted completely black first.  Then the grey after that.  The inner tire side of the rim is black and has lots of grey overspray on the black. Also it looks as if most of the backside of the rim has a much gray as the face.  Also my original paint on the tire side has a sheen to it.  Doesn't look like a flat finish

Looking for sway bar bushing metal brackets. Npd has them as out of stock. Don't see them listed on other sites. One of the few items I can't find when previous owner took the car apart. There's a set on eBay but seems pricey.
Dz

My original rear brakes had the green / rusty spring which has 2 diameters.  Wider at the base.  All the replacement kits i have and have seen have this blue spring which is the same diameter throughout. Does someone know which is correct and does it matter? My k code also had the 2 diameter spring.
Dz

289 block dated early 5G or late 5F
hipo heads in the 5E 5F range. Would take a complete motor .
I have a K hipo motor  dated  January 66 I may consider trading
Hipo fomoco distributor dated in the 6D range
Looking for power steering pulley marked 90B will also take a pump as well
7.35 -14 space saver
Thanks
dz

Just saw an ad for ABC's the Golden Bachelor show using a gold 68 vert. They blocked out the rocker stripes. Anybody know who's this is?
Dz

https://bloomingtonian.com/2023/04/16/driver-of-rare-1965-ford-mustang-gt350-muscle-car-had-been-at-bloomington-car-show-before-fatal-crash/

Does this look original / 2nd printing? Cover looks correct,  page with the car diagram has the hole punch circle in the lf wheel. Usually I've seen that on the opposite page in the text.
"optional" text looks correct
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Shelby-American-GT350-Mustang-Owners-Manual-Carroll-Shelby/324539845452

Previous owner has for sale. Registry says current owner unknown.
Look at this on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-1966-Shelby-American-GT350-Mustang-Owners-Manual-RARE-FIRST-PRINTING-/154321457585?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Shelby-GT350-500-owner-039-s-manual-/133599007262?nma=true&si=0Q2qhdhR%252FMCmpyXAOSyrX12u7MM%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Following this and threw a small bid at it but my car is 2382. Lots of specific to the original car writing in it.
Looks like the original.
Registry says the car is being restored

Not a shelby but I'm looking for someone who could pick up a 1942 ford GPW jeep tub and parts in Davenport Iowa and bring to Leesburg, Virginia and what the cost would be. No frame or wheels not rolling, the body tub and loose parts. weighs about 400 - 500 lbs
Dave Z

I was asked if I replaced the cowl hats on my 66  without completely taking the cowl apart and I did. The car has a pretty good body, but there were some areas needing attentiom. I got the idea from one of Brets threads where I  saw Jeremy cut a side of the upper cowl off to access the hats to clean and prime and remove any rust.

First thing I did was carefully cut the hump / side  area under where the fender bolts on, as well as drill out about 15 spot welds,  and save the piece for reinstalling later. I hoped I would only have to blast and clean but I decided I had to replace the hats and a minimal amount of the bottom of the cowl. I flipped the car over, while standing in the windshield opening, drilled out the spotwelds for the hats and carefully cut a ring which I used for a pattern on the replacement cowl section.
I pre primed the hats before installation

Does anyone know the original style fiberglass shelby used to  bond the fiberglass hood to the metal frame.? My carryover has the cloth mat strips which I believe is original.  My 66 1127 has what looked like the chopped  glass all around the edges which could be original but is possible someone had redone some of it in the past.
My carryover is the black mat, 1127 is the blasted clean photo.

Oops
https://jalopnik.com/youtuber-building-an-eleanor-mustang-replica-has-car-ta-1843863689

Still looking for an original Archway emblem but in the mean time I did some basic artwork and cut one out of chrome vinyl which will work until I find an original.
Needs some refining but I dont have to drill holes in my taillight panel

Not mine
dont know the real value but in my area

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/wto/d/leesburg-shelby-mustang-wheels/7126582337.html

This is an original set of 1969-70 Shelby Mustang Wheels. These wheels were unique only to 1969, 70 Shelby Mustangs. They are 15 inch wheels. The correct original center caps are with the wheels, These wheels were removed from the car and stored inside 30 years ago.
$7500

Having a litle more free time lately. I have spent countless hours massaging the original doors and fenders  for 1127 and those parts are ready for paint. Probably could have replaced them but I feel better with restored originals. I spent a tone of time working on the gaps and fit. I think I made them equal to or better then the factory.

Are these additional rivets correct for my 66 350? They are visible , not hidden by the weather strip track. They look possibly added  to tighten up the stainless trim. They are on both sides of the car mid roof. Spacing looks inconsistent left to right.  I have another 66  that does not have them. Were they added as a warranty tsb type issue?