SAAC Forum

I know many who drive their cars have issues with hard starts when the engine is at operating temperature.
I was working with another member here and suggested not only using the 3/8" Canton Phenolic Carburetor Spacers but insulating the fuel line from the apron to the pump but about a foot and a half on pump to carburetor and the phenolic fuel pump spacer.  The changes lowered the fuel temperature almost 10 degrees. For those who have never seen the pump spacer I posted it below.

I remembered someone making a new batch up. I had a rebuilt factory fan clutch throw a few blades and crack the paint on the hood. I'll need a replacement after it's repainted. Are there any available?

I spoke to Rachel this morning at AMK. They are no longer selling the lanyards or the 65-7 hood pin plates.  Does anyone have a source on replacement plates? Thank you.

I was looking at the listings once again. The stars you see on the visor decals are as the reproductions are supplied by NPD. When I bought another set after they peeled from the visor I noted the inked star stamp. Fraudster. More penned in part numbers on packing and as usual, they are included.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-shelby-gt350-mustang-door-sill-inserts-Y-belt-visor-emblems-Dome-insert/333594663051?hash=item4dabca988b:g:wvgAAOSw4B9etrtm

The job isn't that difficult if you do basic mechanical work. You'll need about 6' of 14 gauge black wire and a Scotchlok.( used black wire instead of red because it's easier to camouflage when you run it with the three wire engine feed under the three clips that should be on the valve cover bolts on the engine.

You'll need to remove the instrument cluster from the dash. ( I can give you the simple way to remove it if you haven't removed it before)
You'll need to make a very tight loop on a metal hanger. Strip about 3" of the end of the wire, pull the stripped end through the loop and twist it on the exposed wire tightly. You'll  then lubricate the hanger with a little bit of dish soap. Insert from the firewall side the hanger into the boot next to the wires that exit from the engine harness and push the metal hanger into the car. ( You are NOT poking a hole into the boot, starting the straightened hanger into the car
and slowly pull the hanger and the wire into the vehicle.  Cut the wire from the hanger and pull it in to the right side of the  dash opening and you'll use the scotch lock to the red tach lead of the main dash loom.  The other end of the lead is attached to the RED lead of the Pertronix.  You have a couple choices here.  You can either solder them together and use a little shrink tube, or you can use a bullet connector. 
The black lead from the Pertronix remains on the black terminal of the coil.

Anyway, the cluster removal is relatively simple.. After you've done it a couple times.
There is a stamped nut that holds the radio to the support bracket under the dash. You can access it without removal of your of your gauge cluster under the dash.  You'll remove the single stamped nut with a 1/4" drive 7/16" socket. There are four screws that hold the radio bezel to the dash. Two black in the black part of the chrome bezel and two stainless screws.  The radio will pull forward. On the left SIDE of the radio there are two plugs. One is for the radio lighting and power, the other to dash speaker. ( I'm assuming you have the stock AM or AM/FM radio.) The radio antenna lead is on the right lower side to the rear of the radio. Unplug them and set the radio on the passenger side foot well out of your way.
On the right lower corner of the instrument cluster there is a 3/8" sheet metal nut. Remove that. Use a 1/4" drive socket to remove the nut. Set it with the screws and nut you'd removed previously.  Now you'll remove the screws in the bezel. There are three black phils above at the top of the cluster, and two below. One under the tach and speedometer.  Remove those. All the way left there is one stainless screw above the temperature controls. Remove it.
Now loosen the two screws on the top of the temperature control. No need to completely remove them.
Now remove the steering wheel and set it aside.  Double up  a towel and lay it over the steering column.
Grab the cluster and wiggle it back and forth until you can get your finger tips under it. Continue to wiggle it until you  have enough room to unscrew the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer.  Once you've done that you can lean tilt the cluster forward at the top. Unplug the black connector from the windshield wiper switch.  The left side turn signal lamp needs to be unplugged. ( Single bullet lead) Now unplug the white block connector for the cluster to harness. ( Pinch in on the sides and pull and wiggle.)  Now set the cluster loosely back in place. Lean over in the seat to the right and pull the cluster forward from the side. Unplug the tachometer. One red one black bullet lead.
You can now remove the cluster. Be careful. Walk it side to side and it will slide forward. BE SURE THE COLUMN IS COVERED WITH THE TOWEL!
You don't want to scratch the chrome on the cluster or the paint on the top of the steering column. 
Now you can get to the tach lead on the right with the wire and Scotchlok. 
Before you put the dash back together, be sure to test your work. plug the two tach leads in the harness together. It completes the circuit and the car will start. That assures the Scotchlok is correctly installed.
Assemble in reverse order. 
If there is further clarification needed, let me know.
Your tach is now safe and will read correctly.

Is this a real NOS period piece? 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1965-1967-Shelby-Mustang-Holley-Carburetor-List-3259-1/233578056745?hash=item3662564c29:g:gxAAAOSwg~ler3F3

  I thought I'd take the car out.
It's unusually quiet in St. Louis this evening so I thought I'd post a picture.
Remember those who gave all this weekend.

I have the antibodies, so I am immune to Covid 19.  I am donating plasma.  This is a great way to help others, which many here are of the age group most at risk.
If you are fortunate enough to have the ability to help others, please do so.
Even simple things like picking up groceries, mail or meals can be helpful to those who are compromised or at risk.

I believe it was Corey who had asked about this. I am going to post in 67 thread as well.
This is the Ford Sevice manual instructions as well as the tool that must be made to do so.
The tool is made with .250 "piano" wire. You can find this in Hobby Shops.  The straight portion is about 4" long and the 45-degree bend is about three inches in length. Be sure to clean up the edges of the end that you cut.  You don't want it longer because it will hit the driveshaft tunnel and you may not be able to get it in the hole.
Be sure it passes through ALL three levers before you start trying to make adjustments.

I believe it was Corey who had asked about this. I am going to post in 67 thread as well.
This is the Ford Sevice manual instructions as well as the tool that must be made to do so.
The tool is made with .250 "piano" wire. You can find this in Hobby Shops.  The straight portion is about 4" long and the 45-degree bend is about three inches in length. Be sure to clean up the edges of the end that you cut.  You don't want it longer because it will hit the driveshaft tunnel and you may not be able to get it in the hole.
Be sure it passes through ALL three levers before you start trying to make adjustments.
I posted the factory service manual instructions. I have a different method. If you are interested in my method I'll be glad to post for the asking.

The weather has been nice. It was 90 in the DFW yesterday.  In shorts and a T-shirt and 2/55 air conditioning, I followed suit.  It doesn't completely alleviate the worries and concerns but is none the less a distraction from the  Chinese plague.

It's strange to go over to headquarters and see the parking lots and structures all but empty.
To add insult to injury someone in the Bahamas wound up obtaining my Platinum card and Visa Debit card information and in four days went through 16,000.00.  How kind of them.
All starting the day after my departure from KMCO. I always hold my rental cars with my credit card and pay for them with my debit.
No shortage of low life individuals anymore.   

I have never seen an original Ford/Shelby carburetor with secondary accelerator pump nozzles on a vacuum secondary. Is this legitimate?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-SHELBY-HOLLEY-CARBURETOR-GT500-MUSTANG-428-C8ZX-9510-A-LIST-4129-DATE-7A4/333177793837?epid=4015343161&hash=item4d92f1ad2d:g:9C8AAOSwbv9coT79

I thought perhaps a little humor would lighten the climate we're living currently in.  Instead, it's removed once again with no justification.  No real surprise considering the bitterness of some here.

Those of us who are prior military know about the shenanigans that go on. More often than not one-upmanship becomes an art in the craft of pay-backs and practical jokes.

A good friend of mine made a trip to the emergency room. He left his wife a note and didn't specify the circumstances. I ran into her at Starbucks alone and had asked if Mike was well and that I noted he was on the schedule.
I asked her what had happened. She said he wouldn't tell her and every time she asked he would look really upset. I was concerned that perhaps something came up during his flight physical. I shot him a text this morning and I get a call about 0750 hrs.

So post the usual greetings and grumblings he warns me that if I disclose what he is fixing to tell me that there will be hell to pay.  I am assuming something very unnerving was going to come of the conversation.  I change from my informal tone to a somber tone of concern considering the last year of events in my own life and prepare to try and offer some comfort.

He starts in a low tone and tells me: ' Remember when Tony was home from the USMA over the holidays?" I said: 'Yes, of course I do!" Why?

He slowly starts to talk hesitating. Then discloses the emergency room visit.  He had gone out to the camper and brought in some back-up toilet paper sheets.
He used it and immediately was in excruciating pain from the intense burning of his rectum and surrounding areas. He thought he was bit or stung so he decided to go to the ER and had taken the paper.  The doctor had given him a thorough going over and noted the extreme redness.  He left the room with the roll of paper and came back about 30 minutes later. He couldn't keep a straight face and handed him a balm to deal with the issue.  Mike asked him what the issue was and why he was smirking.
Well, come to find out his son before departing pranked Mike and had put Chili powder in the eco-friendly toilet paper. ( They look more akin to recycled sheets)
And the powder lit him on fire for about four hours.
By the time he finishes telling me I am laughing hysterically and in tears.  He says: " I knew you'd think this was funny, asshole!" Now when you stop laughing help me cook up something epic to retaliate when Tony comes home at the end of May.
I can't wait! LOL

A

I wanted to let the group know about the issues with the Marti Auto Works Fuel Line. I have had my vehicle completed for just over a year. I purchased the 3/8 and the 5/16 because of the feed for the dual quads and the 3/8 feed line from the tank to the pump.

The lines are dry and cracking already.  I replaced the fuel sender and noted the cracks in the sender to feed. I decided to inspect the others and every single hose is not only hard but splitting.  I would suggest an inspection of all rubber fuel lines supplied via Marti Auto Works.

It's bad enough to see a Mustang done like this, but a real 1967 GT500 is disgusting. Looks like it's straight outta Compton.  The idiot even used the word "Concours" quality restoration.   What's next? Low Rider Hydraulics?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Ford-Mustang-GT500/184190493039?hash=item2ae29be16f:g:SwwAAOSwqNdeWYjB

I have used the cork Felpro gaskets in the past on my cast Aluminum covers and really haven't had an issue.  The last set I purchased was the Felpro rubber gaskets. They seem to be leaking. Has anyone else had an issue with the rubber gaskets?