SAAC Forum

So we are already with GT350 #1341 for our 1st big show this Sat the 3rd and we are having problems with the rear brakes.

The entire system is new
Dewy restored booster
Dead nuts master cylinder
Calipers restored by Shelby Parts & Resto
New distribution block
All new lines
NPD wheel cyl.  https://www.npdlink.com/product/wheel-cylinder-brake/139832?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DT-2262-2%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D
All new drum hardware
And we do have an original proportionig valve that was rebuilt.


Tonight I adjusted the rear drums, they would spin freely and lock when brake applied with car off. 
I did this becuase after a short drive on sunday the rear wheels got pretty hot to touch.  So I revisited readjusting brakes tonight.
  We went for about a 2 mile drive.  Initlally brakes felt good and we could coast nicley down a slight hill and car was driving really well.
Towards the end of the drive we got out to switch drivers and checked temps of wheels. The rear drums were warm, nothing you couldnt keep your hand on.  So we started to go down street again and coasted again and we could tell rear brakes were binding. Turned aound went back up street to our garage and as approaching garage we had some rear brake squeel.  Into garage, car off, up on jack and I could not turn wheels by hand.

I was able to back off the adjusters to free up wheels, however when doing that the emegency brake would not lock the right rear.

If the proportioning valve was not rebuild correctly could this be the result?

Prior to the adjusting I pulled drums and all looked good inside primary and secondary shoes correctly installed along w springs, equalizer bar and emergency brake components.

This 67 GT350 1341 was sold by Tasca and my father is the 4th owner.  My father purchased this Shelby in the later 1980s showing 68K miles and it has been in storage up to  2017.  The car had very minor rust with extremely solid floors for the north east.   The 2nd owner bought this car in 1979 and prior owner had it in storage since mid 70s due to gas crunch.  The 2nd owner was housemates with Curt Vogt in Orange CT and around this time the start of the first Cobra Automotive castings, valve covers and oil pans were in the works.  In messaging with the 2nd owner Brett, he told me that he and Curt removed all the power steering to convert to a manual set up, lowered a-arms, installed Konis, true dual exhaust, headers and Hurst shifter.  Yes I had to source all the correct steering components, including steering column and steering box.  Here are some before, during restoration and current pics.

We got #1341 back home this weekend and it was a blast to drive for a few hours yesterday.

I am getting ready to make a tire purchase.  I specifically would like to know for those running AVONs with a 1" Shelby drop on their car, what size tire do you run and did you have any clearance/rubbing issues to work out?


Thanks
Carl

WTB 289 hipo heads with 6M22 to 7A31 casting date

Looking for 289 HiPo heads C7ZE Non-Smog 6M22 casting

Note these are not my parts.  I just came across the add for them on facebook marketplace

1967 parts seen while searching (not my parts) Facebook market place

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/479832196585652/?ref=facebook_story_share

I have been researching and acquiring a complete power steering setup for our GT350 #1341 as it was previously converted to manual steering.

I just sourced a rebuilt SMB-B box and I now need the correct pitman arm that fits the 1" secter.

What is the correct part number pitman arm?

Restoring GT350 #1341 (build 2-28-67), of which has had its steering converted to manual sometime in its life.  It was a full conversion as my steering box is an SMB - F.  What is the correct steering box should I have SMB - E or SMB - K?

Thanks
Carl

Hello,

We are currently restoring 1967 GT350 #1341.  What is the correct coating/finish for the KH brake calipers?

thanks,
Carl