Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - 8T03S1425

Pages: [1]
When setting adjustable rocker arms on an engine with an hydraulic flat tappet cam, should I remove the distributor to manually spin the oil pump in an attempt pump up, or maintain pressure within the hydraulic flat tappet lifter for the rocker arm being adjusted?

Iím otherwise okay with the process of adjusting the rocker arms and offer the following as a check and for a basis of general discussion.

When an engine has a stock, or a mildly modified cam, Iím told that adjusting the rocker arms for each cylinder at TDC is preferred. This is because thereís less chance of confusion, and at TDC both valves in that cylinder should be closed, meaning both lifters are on the heels of the camshaft.

I have also read about and used the EOIC method. Followers of the EOIC method believe this is a better method of determining that the rocker arm being adjusted has the associated lifter on the heel of the cam lobe, and minimizes errors due to variations in cam profiles for increased lift duration.

For those unfamiliar with the EOIC method, it may come across as being complicated or confusing, because youíre monitoring one valveís motion and then adjusting the other valve. Additionally, as you work down a cylinder bank, youíll need to pay attention to the pattern of exhaust and intake valves. FE heads have the valve pattern of E-I, E-I, I-E, I-E, whereas the 289, 302 & 351W heads have a valve pattern of E-I, E-I, E-I, E-I. Anyway, the EOIC method breaks down like this:

Pick a cylinder for the exhaust and intake valves you want to adjust.
Rotate the crankshaft until the Exhaust valve of that cylinder begins to Open.
Stop rotating the crankshaft and set the Intake valve to zero lash and then tighten an additional 1/2 turn*.
If you have a locking nut, you can snug it now.
Rotate the crankshaft until the Intake valve begins to Close.
Stop rotating the crankshaft and set the Exhaust valve to zero lash and then tighten an additional 1/2 turn*.
If you have a locking nut, you can snug it now.

*  Check with the cam or lifter manufacturer for this pre-load. I have read where some mechanics use additional pre-loads ranging between 1/2 turn and 1 full turn.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / 1968 GT500 Exhaust to H-pipe Studs
« on: March 14, 2020, 04:29:28 PM »
Are the threaded holes that secure the H-pipe to exhaust manifold 3/8Ē-16 or 7/16Ē-14? I believe both threaded holes take studs. RH manifold has 1 through hole and 1 blind hole. LH manifold has 2 blind holes.

Iím chasing the threads. The 3/8Ē-16 seems correct, but the threaded holes seem like a bigger tap would be better.


I have an X-pipe, dual muffler, stainless steel, Magna Flo exhaust system on my GT500 convertible. Feeding the system are Hooker headers that I bought back in the mid-to-late Ď70s. They were in pretty good shape so I had them Jet Hot coated in silver. The exhaust system looks and sounds good, but I havenít found exhaust tips that look like the Ď68 Shelby pipe-in-pipe.

I saw that one of my SAAC Super Heroes, ShelbyDoug, has tips that I was looking for.

Talk to me/us ShelbyDoug. Based on that picture, and other mods youíve written about doing, Iím betting that youíre not using a 2Ē exhaust, but yet you found a source for exhaust tips that look kinda like the Ď68 Shelby pipe-in-pipe. Iíd like to get something similar. What is your recommendation? Are they a Scott Fuller custom?


The Lounge / Fanged, but Friendly Flying Turtle?
« on: March 04, 2020, 12:24:38 PM »
I spent some of my morning following Gamera, the fanged, but friendly flying turtle, of cheesey Japanese sci-fi fame.

Seems that Iíve seen that super hero name used in this cadre.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / 428 PI, Hardened Exhaust Valve Seats or Not?
« on: February 04, 2020, 12:18:27 AM »
I was reading a discussion started by a guy who was seeking advice on disassembling and rebuilding or reassembling a Ď66 HiPo 289. The discussion turned to the topic of the need for hardened exhaust seats in his engine. Randy weighed in and stated:

      The reason not to do it is there is no reason to do it in the first place. IF the heads suffer from seat recession , then by all means have exhaust seats installed. If they do not , you don't have a problem to fix in the first place. Replacement seats have been known to "fall out" if installed with "too little" press fit , and crack the head under the seat if installed with "too much" press fit. Much paranoia was created in '72 when Ford cast a bunch of "junk" 351C 2V heads that had seat recession and horrible guide wear. As I mentioned gas formulations have been improved to reduce seat recession and it rarely happens now days.

I recently had the original, to my GT500, C8AE-H FE heads rebuilt to stock specs. Except for the mention of the Ď72 351 2V heads, my engine builderís advice pretty much paralleled Randyís advice. Because I remember a time when using hardened exhaust valve seats were commonly recommended, I pressed him for the reason why he didnít think I needed them.

He told me that theyíre not needed for todayís pump gas, especially if the car will be used for typical recreational and spirited driving. He also added that putting hardened exhaust valve seats in 390 GT or 428 CJ heads is a bit challenging due to how close the intake and exhaust valves are to one another. With that said, he told me that if I wanted the hardened exhaust valve seats heíd be able to add them, but their cost and installation would increase my cost of the rebuild. I opted against their use. If I was going to use the car for cross country highway trips or repeated and regular drag racing, he recommended I use a lead additive, otherwise I should be fine without fuel additives.

I open this topic in a new thread for 428 engines to solicit comments, pro and con, for hardened exhaust valve seats. Iíd also like to hear from those who have had the hardened seats installed on 390 GT or 428 heads. Has it been a good decision or were there unexpected outcomes.


Wanted to Buy / WTB - 428 PI Block for 1968 Shelby
« on: September 17, 2019, 08:07:36 PM »
C scratch
Reinforced block
Date codes from 7M15 to 8A26

I may also be interested in slightly earlier date codes.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / 1968 GT500 428 PI Identifiers
« on: September 15, 2019, 04:38:44 PM »
This posting is part a request for information and part a request for help in sourcing date code correct parts.

My car was completed on 02/14/1968, so it is that date thatíll be used for the context of information and parts.

I removed and disassembled the engine back in the mid to late Ď70s with the hopes of rebuilding it because it lacked power and smoked horribly. Beyond that, I did not document anything about the engine identifiers. I stored the useable components and bought a 428CJ.

The PI block was cracked in several places, in the lifter galley, and subsequently scrapped. There is no hope or possibility of getting it back. Iím primarily looking for a suitable block and maybe a connecting rod and maybe an exhaust manifold.

What engineering code should I look for; C6ME, C7ME, or C8ME?
What scratch should I look for; A or C?
What date code ranges should I consider? I was thinking that 7L(late), 7M, or 8A(early) might be considered okay? I think an early 7L and a late 8A wouldn't work.
Did the PI block have 2 or 3 web mains and are 3 web mains found only on the C scratch block?
Will ď428Ē be found cast into a water passage covered by one of the core plugs?
Based on the heads (see below), I figure I could use either 7M or 8A(early). Would a 7L be too early for my car?

Crank Shaft
Was the 1U crank the only crank used in a '68 GT500?

The heads that came off my carís engine are:
     C8AE-H 8A22
     C8AE-H 7M26
The 7M26 head has a stamping that I believe may be related to my carís VIN. The carís VIN is 8T03S169334-01425. Here is the stamping.

Unfortunately, the stamping is less than ideal, but I read it as 8T1(?)9334.

Connecting Rods
The rods that were in the engine were:
     (1) C6AE-C
     (7) C7AE-B
Were both the C6AE-C and C7AE-B rods used in the 428 PI in 1968? Do I need to find another C7AE-B, or can I reuse the C6AE-C? Are they interchangeable?

Exhaust Manifolds
The exhaust manifolds that were on my car were:
     C7OE-A 7M29
     C8OE-A 7M16 + a spacer
The C8OE-A is cracked, so it'll need to be repaired or replaced.

Crank Shaft Windage Tray
Did the 428 PI come with a crank shaft windage tray?
What benefit does it provide?

Lifter Galley Windage Tray
Did the 428 PI come with a lifter galley windage tray?
What benefit does it provide? I presume it minimized oil splash on to the aluminum intake manifold.

Any and all help will be appreciated.


The Lounge / IMSA at The Glen
« on: June 30, 2019, 03:36:11 PM »
Itís been a beautiful weekend at the Glen. The weather was better than forecasted.

Iím hoping that the Ford GTs finish better than this. All the cars in GTLM have led.

Here they are entering the Esses. (Buggers, theyíer side ways.)

The Lounge / Ownership Options
« on: April 12, 2019, 02:33:11 PM »
Recently, a question was posed about the practicality of leveraging an LLC for ownership of Shelbys. Iíd like to expand that topic to ask about other options, like a trust.

Iím not too adverse to giving up ownership, or liability, as long as I can maintain control and beneficial ownership. The car is not being financed, but it does still require maintenance and finishing of restoration.

Maybe, allowances vary state-to-state, and maybe I should be talking with an estate atty, but I am hoping to be pointed in a good direction, and armed with relevant questions, by folks with an interest in these types of cars that are also now part of assets that can be liquidated for retirement, if need be.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Fan Shroud Repair
« on: November 09, 2018, 08:22:23 PM »
Some time ago, my fan shroud broke when it was in storage. It's since been repaired and painted black to mask the repair. I've since stripped off the black paint and was hoping I can have the repair masked to better match the original appearance.

What services are out there to address this situation?

I bought a bunch of acrylic colors from an arts and craft chain store, thinking I may be able to blend up a color, but that may be an exercise in futility and frustration.

Here's what I dealing with:

In addition to the repair, there are a few spots that seem to have been discolored by a chemical.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Marchal 653 Covers
« on: October 08, 2018, 11:07:54 PM »
I was fortunate enough to have found someone who had a NOS pair of Marchal 653 fog lights for sale. My '68 GT500, completed on 02/14/1968, 01425 came with Marchals. When I bought the car, the lenses were broken and the bulb sockets and reflectors were rusted trash, but the housings were in very good condition. The plan was to purchase new lenses and sockets and possibly have the bodies re-chromed. Even though I may still rebuild them, I'll concentrate on installing the NOS pair I just bought.

I want to shout out Tim Lea. He was quite accommodating in answering my questions about Marchal 653 installation. Turns out it was described in the "1968 Shelby GT 350/500 Illustrations, Assembly Procedures & Parts List" that I bought many years ago. All the more reason to shout out Tim and our other expert resources. Very rarely, if at all, do they tell us to look it up in some manual.

Something surprised me about the installation of those lamps; the pedestals and washer bases. The ones that were on my car were stainless steel. I had thought they would be chrome plated mild steel. Even though they looked terrible, I was able to buff them up to a very high, nearly perfect chrome like shine.

Anyway, now I'm looking for a pair of covers. I spent some time at the Fall Carlisle event but couldn't find any. I found a pair of hard plastic clip on covers, but no soft fabric-like covers. When I asked about the soft covers, all I got back in return were dismissive looks and negative replies. Here's an ad that was in one of the boxes that held a 653 I just bought.

Does any body have a pair for sale or know where I can get them. Please PM me if you have a pair to sell. I couldn't find them on the web, but it looks like they come in a kit of new repo Marchal 653s. I'll be trekking to Hershey this weekend to continue my search.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / 1968 Convertible - Detailing The Trunk
« on: January 21, 2018, 09:22:04 PM »
Iím looking for some good ole fashion help with detailing my trunk.

8T03S-01425 was built on 02/14/1968, itís a white car with black interior and top. It also has the early style recessed side reflectors.

I need the correct:
  • trunk floor mat
  • luggage protector strip
  • side reflector screw caps (Are they used in my car?)
  • location information for the trunk stickers and decals

Pictures would be a tremendous help.



Pages: [1]