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Topics - 6s1640

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / GT350 seat belt eye bolts
« on: October 23, 2021, 10:25:05 PM »
Hi all,

What is the assembly line set of eye bolts, two short and two long?  Or did cars come with a mix or all long.  See below image of short and long.

Does the long go on inboard side in hump with underlayment and padding to go through?  Then short goes on outboard side with just carpet to penetrate?

Thank

Cory

2
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Parking brake warning light sensor
« on: October 17, 2021, 03:04:37 PM »
Hi all,

Please see image below.  Is this the period assembly line sensor that mounts to parking brake?

Can some one take a picture of this piece installed?

Thanks

Cory

3
Hi all,

Don't be tempted.  These chrome Magnum 500's are the Chrysler/Mopar wheel.  The seller is advertising the back spacing to be 3 & 5/8 or 3.625.  The GT350 magnum 500 is closer to 3 & 3/8 or 3.375.  This is a quarter inch difference.  They do have the right markings 795C and the 14X6, but too large of back spacing.  You can also see in the side images, the weld line is slightly closer to the outside of the wheel or slightly left of center in the flat.  Original GT350's Magnums, the weld line is slightly closer to the inside of the wheel or right of center on the flat.

Best regards

Cory

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224648953778?hash=item344e1effb2:g:7dIAAOSwxaFhafNy


4
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Bright metal trim around brake and gas pedal
« on: October 15, 2021, 07:37:14 PM »
Hi all,

I have been seeing several Hertz models with the metal trim around the brake and gas pedal.  Is this typical of the GT350H?  I thought this was a deluxe only interior feature.  I thought all GT350's were absent this trim, part of the standard interior.  I expect an owner may have added.  Which is assembly line correct for the rental car, pedal trim on absent?

Thanks

Cory

5
Hi all,

Can anyone confirm that the AMK stamped nut B-10639 is the same nut used on the Magnum 500 center caps.  They look right, but thought I'd ask if any one has purchased and used on the plastic caps.  Below are images of originals, NOS and the AMK nut.

I sent a note to Brant at VCM, but he was not sure if they were the ones or not, but thought they look the right size.

Thanks

Cory

6
Wanted to Buy / WTB a M or MA booster for a 4100 Autolite carb
« on: August 28, 2021, 11:04:31 PM »
Hi all,

Does anyone have a spare that are willing to sell?  Or info what other 4100 carb the same booster might come in.  This is the primary booster to a C6ZF-F or -C carb.

Thanks

Cory

7
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / W-MO radiator 1-66 and the applicable AMK tag
« on: August 23, 2021, 03:15:26 PM »
Hi all,

What tag should a 1966 Mustang 289 with a 1-66 dated coded W-MO radiator get?  The current AMK guide for this application shows no tag.  An older AMK guide shows C6ZE-H2.  It appears AMK has dropped the H2 tags.  In the absents of the H2, should I go with the G2 or none at all?

Thanks

Cory

8
Hi all,

This is only slightly related to the 66 GT350, only by day-2 modifications, tranny swaps back in the day, automatic to four speed.  The Toploader was likely the tranny of choice.

Can any one tell the difference between the HEH-BX and the HEH-BT Toploaders?  Both are close ratio four speeds, built on the same case C5AR-7006-D.  The HEH-BX according to Mustangtek was from October 1, 1964 for both 1965 and 1966 Mustangs, both HiPo and LoPo 289.  The HEH-BT was from February 1, 1965, four months later only ID'd for 1965 Mustangs.  I assume for LoPo 289's only.

Did the HEH-BX have better bearings or some other difference to make it more heavy duty?  Was the HEH-BT a little cheaper to build for the LoPo 289 Mustangs, but then dropped for 1966 model year, maybe because the savings really was not there?

Thanks

Cory

9
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Rear panel G.T. 350 emblem variations
« on: August 07, 2021, 02:38:55 AM »
Hi all,

I am trying to understand a variation on the G.T. 350 emblem.  The attached photographs shows two versions.  I believe the upper is the later production version that was altered for better casting features.  The lower version is a used emblem off a car in the mid 400s. It does appear to have casting flaws on the backside and smaller casting flaws on the front.  You can see the divots on both sides.  The later version is a much cleaner casting.  Do I have it right from early versus late?  Do we know when the transition occurred?  I am betting all 65's got the early version and into the 66 production.  Somewhere in the 66 production, the later emblem was introduced.  I expect there was overlap or mixing of both versions during the transition.  So there is probably not a clean break.

Thanks

Cory

10
Appeals / 1966 GT350H Magnum 500 center cap sticker
« on: August 06, 2021, 06:08:33 PM »
Hi all,

Does anyone still make the red background HERTZ Magnum 500 sticker?  I can only find the yellow background sticker.  In the GT350H  tri-fold brochure, it shows what appears to be the red background sticker.  Is that right?

Thanks

Cory

11
Swap Meet / Trade 1/65 Wittek clamp for 3/65, 4/65 or 1/66
« on: July 17, 2021, 11:49:32 PM »
Hi all,

I have a 1/65 Wittek tower clamp 1-1/16 No. 10 for trade for same but date codes 3/65,  4/65 or 1/66.  Please see image.

Thanks

Cory

12
Hi all,

I have a very nice Ford 1968 power steering control valve, no wear on the outside, but the inside bushings are pitted.  Can these be pushed out and replaced? Please see images and advise.

Image 1  - Inside view showing pits

Image 2 - Side by side outside compassion, control valve on right with heavy wear.  This seams like a design flaw.  Left valve with inside pitting.

Image 3 - The warn valve with good insides.

Can the bushings from the warn valve be installed into the pitted control valve?  Is there a tool for this, maybe similar to a camshaft bearing tool?

Thanks

Cory

13
Hi all,

My understanding this blade is for a small block 1968 Mustang, Cougar or GT350 with air conditioning.  It seams to be in very nice shape.  It came off a running car, FE, so not the right application.  The clutch shall be sold separatly.  It feels snug.  Not too loose and not too tight.  I am assuming that is good.  It does turn, but you can feel some resistance.  If I got it wrong, please let me know.

$100 for the fan, $150 for the clutch,  plus the ride for each.  See images.

According to Mustang Tek, below are the applications their website also ID's for just the blade:

66 289 Mustang w/Hang on AC
66 289 Fairlane w/AC w or wo/TE
66 289 Fairlane Power fan
67 289 Mustang w/AC
67 289 Fairlane w/AC, Power fan w_or_wo/TE
68 Shelby GT-350
66-67 289 Falcon w/AC w_or_wo/TE

See   http://www.mustangtek.com/fan/C6OE-G.html

Thanks

Cory

14
Hi all,

I ended up with too many seal kits.  This is the Danial Carpenter kit P/N C5ZZ-18500.  The cover sheet says good for "65-68 Mustang and Cougar except 67-68 with in-dash air conditioner."

$20 to your door, includes shipping.

Thanks

Cory

15
Hi all,

I am putting a new foam kit into a 66 GT350 heater box.  I am having trouble getting the two halves of the heater box to seat into each other to install the clips.   I even removed a section of foam on the sheet metal internal flow control assembly, to get it to seat flush on the heater box.  I feel the foam is too stiff and is not crushing like it should.  Or it is too thick or both.  Has anyone else had this issue?  Is there a better kit out there that better matches OEM?

I just checked the NPD kit and it says:

GASKET SET  18A569-1C, Heater Box, repro, kit includes some components that are made of a more correct open cell foam that is much more compressible than the other kits, The cowl seal is not as nice and users may want to consider the 18A569-1 heater inlet to cowl gasket separately, Includes gaskets for both side and top hinge doors.

Any body try this kit?


Thanks

Cory

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