SAAC Forum

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1965-shelby-gt350-sydney-new-south-wales-2730573



Here's the ad:

DESCRIPTION
Verified by the Shelby American Automobile Club, this iconic Shelby, no 5S227 is one of the 562 built and one of only nine dealer prepared drag race cars of the model year. It was first raced by Mike Gray for it's original owners, Reynolds Ford of Syracuse New York and was given the name "Super Horse"

"Super Horse" competed in both drag and road racing events for over 40 years; it has an authentic and significant racing history. It has also been featured in numerous articles and books over the years. Detailed history and documentation will be forwarded on request.

In 2011, Cobra Automotive of Wallingford Connecticut, fastidiously restored the Shelby for it's new owner and it was superbly finished to it's original race livery. It has not been raced since then.

The new owner imported the newly restored Shelby into Australia in 2012. It was purchased by Ian Cummins in 2015 and has remained part of his cherished collection to this day. During it's time in Australia, it has been used for display purposes only, attracting much attention and admiration. This wonderful motor car has a striking presence, both on a showroom floor and at any historic motoring event.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1966-ford-shelby-mustang-milpitas-ca-2706270






For Sale SFM6S196

One owner since 1980. CA Car. Overall very good condition. Left rear quarter panel replaced 1970's prior to me owning. Inglese Weber Carburetors installed 1983. New Locker added same era. Driven very little since. All original parts and Window Sticker included. 2 sets Cragars. 1 set restored by Craig Conley Front SS Brakes added. Some NOS parts included.

$299,000

Guys--

I own a 1966 GT350 with the proper steering wheel. I decently purchase a steering wheel here on SAAC. I installed it with some kind suggestions form members who helped me get the old on e off the car. The horn works just fine with that wheel. However, when the new wheel is installed--a little spark sparks off the steering rod and wheel when it first touches the steering rod to the wheel housing-then a little "click" (a circuit breaker) sounds. Once the wheel nut is snugged and the wheel is on the car--that little "click" continues to "click" ever Nth second--(about 30 second intervals?).

The horn button on the wheel doesn't activate the horn now. However, when I switch the wheel out back to the original wheel, the horn works just fine when the 1966 steering wheel horn button is pushed.

I have a little multi tester that I don't know how to use for things like this.

Does anyone have an idea of how to go about figuring out how to solve this problem?

Thank you,

Mark
SFM6S2148

"Tinface"

Gentlemen--
I need help figuring out what wheel-puller to use to remove a 1966 GT 350 original steering wheel. Does anyone know what wheel puller I should purchase on amazon to pull an original steering wheel off my car? I'm going to replaced it with a steering wheel I purchased from Dan on this site.

Thank you,

Tin

I am on this site a lot more than I'll admit——and I am ticked off about that too—this site is an absolute bottomless time-sink that...

Let me start over—

The guys running this site-whoever you are, are doing an absolutely wonderful job running this site (except that little glitch where all the priceless information was lost after years of selfless dedicated gathering—but never mind that—hey—it gave us all a chance to start over as Newbees right?

Seriously—whoever you are you're doing one hell of a job day-after-day keeping people from posting Cars for sale with no price—Parts with no price. Or dummies from posting car being auctioned on eBay— in Deals (that was me BTW—I meant to apologize for that but—to whom? So—here goes—sorry person, or people——who are you already?

The bottom line is (as my bottom line) a great big "thank you"  is due—but to whom? That's my point: who is running this site? I mean somebody's got to be working every single day-day after day—so we can all waste a whole bunch of time here—time that non of us are EVER  getting back—NOT EVER. Thanks a lot for that....No really—thank you—but who are you?

Poor Old Grateful Tinface

I purchased a set of original boxed wheels from a guy in the Shelby club who lined them up for me when I purchased the car this year. He had them mounted with brand new tires and bal for me. I didn't want to nick the original wheels so I purchased these wrapped the original wheels with the new tires on them and stored in my garage. I recently went with Cragers instead after I posted about wheel and tires here in this forum...because of the size of the wheel, the fact I have the original magnesium wheel that are mounted with the exact same tires that were original to the 1966 car—not the 1965 Blue Dot tires.

$2,250 tales all four new tires, all four new wheels, all four original boxes.

They're in new condition, balanced and work fine considering their not a performance radial tire.

Price drop to $1,800

Boxes included. I can bring to SAAC 43.

My father was a bodyman. He started a shop in Rogue River Oregon 1972. Because I loved cars and him and he me I worked there from high school on until I left at age 22 then painted car professionally until age 29 when I went to college, then on to law school and a new career.

When I purchase a car—I want original paint—thus when I decided to purchase a Shelby Mustang, a GT350, I wanted a car that had as much of the original original paint as I could find. This year (2019–just in case the server is backed up this time—hopefully highly reliable cloud service) Stephen Becker brokered the sale of 6S2148 between myself and Bill DenBeste; 6S2148 has—for the most part—original paint. I personally consider it an interesting to point to ponder: why would a person who spent 12 years in the automobile refinishing profession only settle for a vehicle with almost all original paint? 

So how and why am I writing this?

1) First, how: to establish that I had experience painting, start to finish in automotive refinishing,
2) Second to point out interesting differences between 6S2148 and the cars redone to show car levels,
3) Third to explore why people prefer original paint or would rather have a car with refinishing materials and expertise that incorporate modern innovations in both areas:
4) Take the pulse of the real Shelby experts—guys who have been preserving these important cars for decades, and continue to do so, to get their views.

Caveat one (1) My new friends—please understand I certainly love the fact that the procedures for painting these cars have evolved with the profession of refinishing in terms of materials and expertise. However, that is one way to preserve these cars. Without judgement, there is an alternative way: that is to restore them back to the standards of the day when they were built.

It's interesting for me to study the paint on 6S2148. When I do, it curious to me, but totally understandable, for example—that the blue stripes that came stock on my car—are so harsh in terms of their appliacation: the edges for example—there was no nice striping tapes by 3M back then, which pulled off the base paint— in nice clean lines; clean crisp lines I see on all the restored cars—the original tape lines are typical of the 3M tape products I used. Paper tape lines that leave lines that are by no means crisp, clean, lines.

Thesis: is restoring a car to the standards of the day they were built serving the car? Or is it a disservice to the car and better to restore these cars to the present day standards?

The Classic Hot Rod Car Journal. Com briefly showcases a new Cobra book some might like.

By Gordon Bruce? Inte, not Bruce Gordon...


https://journal.classiccars.com/2018/03/23/well-told-tale-first-three-shelby-cobras/

By Gordon Bruce
Porter Press International, 2018
ISBN 978-1-907085-55-0
Hard cover, 128 pages
$50

Tin

Gentleman,

Here is a new listing on Hemmings for a 65 GT350 SMF 391. (Note: Thank Brian for clearing up error on the car)

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/shelby/gt350/2088260.html?refer=alert

Gentleman,

I can't believe my good fortune: to purchase a car I have wanted in earnest for years AND then to have the humbling experience of being able to ask really important esoteric, and pedestrian questions, and to be earnestly helped by so many kind and like minded people. Thank you.

I am considering purchasing a trailer to load our 1966 GT350 into, and have the option of transporting the vehicle to, and from, places rather, than driving it; I am hoping some of you might be able to recommend a single car, enclosed, transport trailer.

Or in the alternative, perhaps recommend I stay away from a particular brand, size or ergonomic layout.

Thank very much for any help.

Mark Samson aka Tin, or Tinface

Gentleman,

I have very limited space at my house in the city: a 2 car driveway/ one car garage/ and one car carport with a garage door. Yes. It does suck. So I need to make the most of it until I move in a few years.

I am considering a 4 post lift so I can raise my GT350 up and drive another car I need inside underneath it, or pull the lower car out and work under the car on the lift. There are a bunch of lifts out there out now. I need a 4 post lift I believe.

Has anyone purchased a lift and set one up (or had something else set it up) and would recommend it? Or perhaps you don't like the lift you have and I should avoid it?

My measurements are really tight:

Height limitation: Their is a beam that is 9 (108") foot from the concrete the lift would sit on.
Width Limitation: The carport is 9 foot wide (108 ")
Length limitation:and 16 feet long(192")

That's roughly the size that the lift can be.

Thank you for your time.

Mark

Gentleman,

I'm a new member and recently purchased a 1966 gt350 #2148. I love the car. But is has developed an intermittent problem during the 150 miles I've driven it after I purchased it.

Two questions:

(1) SF Bay Area Mechanic recommendation?
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area (Palo Alto) and I need help fixing a problem with the car and service down the road. I hoping one of you might know of a GT350 expert I can entrust the car to diagnose and repair the problem. Any recommendations?

(2) Is there anyone here who is capable enough to diagnose the problem?

Background: As I said, I purchased the car from a very reputable dealer. He indicated his shop "did everything front to back" and I believe they did.

After about 100 very gentle brake-in miles 2148 started acting like it was running out of fuel. I discovered that if I pulled  the choke out when it started coughing and sputtering, it smoothed out, but when I pushed the choke in, it coughed and sputtered out and will die unless the choke is pulled out a bit

With no choke: it dies and off to the side of the road I go.

If I let it die, and sit by the side of the road and watch the EType Jaguars, Toyotas and Corvettes drive by gauking at me and grinning for 5 minutes or so, it fires right up again and might run fine for several very controlled throttle sensitive miles; then it sputters and coughs and dies unless I pull out the choke and try to tease it on homeward bound.

Gentleman, any ideas where I can take it in Northern California AND any ideas as to what is causing this issue and how I can fix it?

Thank you very much for any help.

Mark
Aka "tin"

It acts like it's either
1. A fuel filter,
2. A fuel pump.

Could it be a gas tank that has debris inside clogging the fuel system? The tank looks like it was replaced at some point because it looks spotlessly shinny tin on the exterior which would perhaps explain several cut wires right above the tank, and the fact the fuel gauge doesn't work, except a barely perceptible "movement " when the ignition is turned on. Im thinking the gauge itself works but the sending unit doesn't work.

Hi All:

I own the GT350 2148 . I have the original wheels for my car. However, I am trying to find an original set of 4 Crager mags wheels for it before I purchase new reproduction Crager mags for it.

Please consider selling me yours if you have some.

Tin

I'm selling a car soon, and I noticed others are too. Here is an article most sellers (like me) should consider reading to learn how to maximize there chances of soliciting the greatest amount of online interest in their car. If it makes just one SAAC member an extra $1,000...it's worth it.

https://medium.com/@seconddaily/car-photography-101-a-picture-can-be-worth-a-1000-26ba1864134e

1. Has anyone purchased a fitted car cover they really like for a 65 or 66 GT350?
   
I'd like to purchase both a soft cover for inside a garage and a rainproof cover for use outside in the environment too.

2. How about these capsule type garage storage units? Does any have experience with them?