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Topics - nvr-enuf

#1
Wanted to Buy / 69 351W oil pan
May 25, 2021, 03:17:25 PM
Looking to purchase a good 351W oil pan (factory / not aftermarket).  Please PM me.  Thanks
#2
(4) Goodyear tires removed from a car which did not drive many miles at all on the tires, per owner less than 200 miles.    Small knobbies are still on the tires.  $250 
Call 262-719-4047 
Local pick pick up desired, additional $50 if you want me to strap to a wooden skid.  For low cost truck transport, try R&L carriers - note buyer will deal 100% with R&L.   
#3
Hello everyone,

The top on my 68' needs to be replaced to the original "white" top.

Looking for advice on which supplier to purchase the top and is there a specific color code to order in order to ensure I get the right color WHITE top? 

I believe one supplier, Robin, states they are the original supplier of the tops.  Is that correct?

Thanks in advance

Scott

#4
Hello Fellow SAAC members - If anyone is driving from Ontario Canada to Detroit area,  I am in need of a car part to be transported.  Please call me at 262-719-4047.  Thanks Scott
#5
Hello Everyone
We started with a running driving car then decided to change out the complete wiring in the car, now after all installed, we have some issues with the ignition system (wont start or even turn over).  I go to try to start the car and besides the noise under the dash (see below) I get nothing under the hood and not much draw on the console AMP (alternator) guage.   The steering wheel is pulled down and in the position that I can tilt up and down.  I know if the tilt away is in the position  when you go to open the drivers door the car wont start. I am pretty sure the column is correct to enable the car to start.  If there is a way to verify this part of the starting circuit, please let me know.  Also we did not take out the column or the vacuum actuator - just replaced the wiring

I do have the Jim Osborn electrical books "but" the books do not show the Ignition electrical schematic w/ the tilt-away column included. 
What I am getting is this:
- solenoid sounding "click" under the dash when I turn the ignition to "on position"
- solenoid sounding "click" under the dash when I turn the ignition to "start position"
The sound is NOT coming from the vaccum actuator solenoid which communicates with the driver's door.  That is a separate "click" when you push the lower door jam switch in and out.

What I have tried to problem solve:
- Pulled vacuum actuator rod under dash which connects to the cable completely out and made sure the adjustment is pulled out
- Jumpered the Red w/ blue stripe 2 pin (male/female) connector on the engine harness side that plugs into the vaccum actuator under dash.

With the ignition "on" I am getting 6 volts at the distributor Coil - I do not know if that is normal or not. 

If someone has an actual electrical schematic of the ignition system w/ the tilt column that would be great.
#6
Hello everyone
I have a 68 convert.  Decided to replace wiring thus the sail (pieces in back seat which roll bar goes thru) panel had to be removed.  I don't think the hardware the last guy used is correct.  Can someone show me the correct screws to use - I the the sunken single by the seat belt is different than the face screws. 

Also is there any trick in removing / installing such that you don't crack the panels?  I'm think to lift one tab up and other down vs opening to get around the roll bar

Thanks everyone

Scott
#7
Hello everyone
I am in the process of replacing the 2 vacuum hoses, convertible top feed, and the amp gauge feed on a 68 convertible Kr

If anyone has a couple pictures of how these wires / vacuum hoses are routed and secured to body, I would really appreciate it

Thanks
Scott
#8
My 68 convert header piece needs to be redone and I believe it is "hard chrome" not shiny chrome

Does any forum members have a contact for redoing this piece ?


Pls reply or pm me
Thanks
Scott
#9
Hello everyone,

I have a 68 500 Convert in need of new skins (tires).  Recently replaced front springs w/ the 620's which are 1" lowered and the OE eaton rear leaf springs. 
The current goodyear eagle II are likely very old, size is 225 / 70 /15

Limited options out there for period looking radial black side wall tires.  I found the Avon's CR6zz and considering the 225 / 60 / 015.   
I have 10 spokes on the car, see attached picture.  The brake calipers require a 1/4" shim for clearance. 
My biggest concern is tire clearance on the front fender.
Curious if any one has 10 spokes like mine with 225  / 60 / 15 tires - I understand each mfg will have slightly different size for the same call out. 

My current 225 / 70 / 15 look like they wont have any issues but I havent driven the car with the new springs. 

Thanks
Scott
#10
Hello everyone - I would like to repaint the needles on the console gauges but it looks like the only way is to uncrimp the stainless / chrome OD ring.  Any ideas / suggestions? Thanks SAS 

Also - do the console gauges receive the green-blue colored light bulbs?   Clear bulbs were removed. Thanks
#11
Hello everyone - redoing the wiring in a recently purchased 68KR 4 speed convert and would like to attach the junction blocks correctly up by the battery.  If anyone has a picture of the correct wire routing and junction blocks (my car has 2 which I do not know is correct) I would really appreciate it. 

I looked at the best Shelby site (love the website) and found some good pics but didn't find detailed enough

I think the key is to look at a convertible kr - I don't know if non A/C or being a 4 speed is important

Thanks ahead of time

Sas
#12
Hello everyone - dash is out, looking for a contact for someone who restores the clock in the instrument cluster
Thanks
#13
Appeals / 68 distributor rebuild
August 19, 2020, 07:39:14 PM
Looking for a distributor rebuilder / restorer suggestion

Thanks
Scott
#14
Hello everyone - the new 68 purchase is turning out to be a lot of fun, heater core recently decided to puke.  Its a really fun project to change out, especially when the hoses refuse to release from the heater core barbs.    Attached is a photo of hoses I have which I am pretty sure are correct, looking for forum confirmation.  Also, the top heater core hose connects to the intake where as the bottom connects to the water pump, looking for confimration on routing.  If anyone has a pick of the heater core hoses as installed on the engine w/o AC, that would be great.

Thanks
SAS

#15
Wanted to Buy / WTB 1968 Convertible Roll Bar Donut
August 06, 2020, 02:46:13 PM
Hello everyone,
I am looking to buy a 68 convertible roll bar donut, I have one from the project car.  Don't remember which side, I will reply to the post with the side I need.
I am aware Branda makes them but from my understanding the Branda ones are hard plastic, nothing like the originals.

Please PM me if you can help me out.
Thanks
Scott
#16
Hello everyone
I am in need of plug wires for 68 KR - does someone make a set that resembles original ?

Current wires say radio resistance 20-67 Autolite
Thanks
Sas
#17
Wanted to Buy / WTB - C8OF-12127-D distributor
July 27, 2020, 11:49:18 PM
Looking for Autolite C8OF-12127-D distributor
Please PM me with pics and price
Thanks
Scott
#18
Recent car purchase did not have springs on deck / trunk lid
I ended up with a repo fatback lid with springs/ hinges
Does anyone know if the fastback deck lid springs will work on convertible?
Thanks
Sas
#19
Hello forum members

My issue lies with a non Shelby but thought I would ask the group since everyone is very helpful

I have a recently purchased 71 Torino with front disk brakes and rear drums
The issue is that I do not have brakes until the pedal is nearly to floor
I replaced rear brake cylinders
Bled the car numerous times
The master has a bleeder so I bled the master on the car
I have adjusted the rod in the booster such that as soon as the pedal moves the piston in the master is moving

Any thoughts as to why I can turn the wheel on the lift when the pedal is around 50 to 70 percent down ?

Thanks for any ideas

Scott

#20
Looking to buy a good / rebuildable 428 PI block to support a late Jan. 1968 car build date. 
Please PM me - thank you Scott