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Messages - Jim Herrud

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1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: T-5 Conversion from Aluminum T-10
« on: July 29, 2019, 03:06:33 PM »
... it has been necessary to "trim" the shifter opening in the transmission tunnel "some"; ...

modern driveline sells a shifter relocater but I havent needed it nor have the approx 10 T5 fitted cars that have been through the shop had one.  Seem to remember it being called a slik shift

To put a number on the amount of trans-tunnel-clearance trim required, here's one example: I am putting a Modern Driveline T5z (MD P/N MD-552-0251) with their "Quik Stik Shifter" (MD P/N MD-88-421-204-03) into my '65 Fastback. Even with the shifter relocator, I still had 0.3" of interference with the front of the tunnel opening. I trimmed a 0.4" clearance off the front.  Note that in the distant past, the frame on my car was reported to have experienced a significant collision with a large, hard object. Subsequently, the frame has been extensively massaged and now measures as correct-to-spec. In addition, all my large aftermarket goodies (rack & pinion, headers, etc.) now (finally) fit as intended. Just one data point. Jim

2
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: valve adjustment
« on: July 26, 2019, 06:21:00 PM »
... just don't whack the throttle and you will be happy. ;)
Thx - NOW you tell me! ;)

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1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: valve adjustment
« on: July 26, 2019, 05:28:12 PM »
You are also going to get some people yelling from the cheap seats, booing as it were, that you need to do this with the engine running. Here's the word that you use with them. Poppycock.

Shelbydoug, I wish you had been the one to coach me on my 289 back in the 80's when I got my '65. Hot & running adjustment is the way I was taught. It works, but in addition to burned fingers, that technique can make a mess. Thank goodness for the internet and this forum.

I'm running hydraulic now.

4
Florida Region SAAC / Re: Movie, Ford vs Ferrari
« on: July 26, 2019, 04:08:48 PM »
Oh No!  Getting Political!!

!!!!!  MODERATOR  !!!!!!








Too soon?
 ;D

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+1

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SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: '65 Fastback Sheet Metal Question
« on: April 11, 2019, 12:35:53 PM »
Looks great Corey!

You might want to make one change: I rechecked my dimensions and confirmed they were correct. After scratching my ... head, I realized the problem is that my drawing incorrectly shows this part of the bracket as being thinner than it actually is. This is apparent when the drawing and photos are compared. There is a lot more metal in this "throat" area than my drawing shows. Changing this in you CAD design would make the bracket stronger.

When I made the drawing, I was also enjoying a Crown and Coke. More evidence that one should never drink and derive a drawing.

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SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: '65 Fastback Sheet Metal Question
« on: April 10, 2019, 11:35:47 PM »
Here you go Corey. Same drawing with requested dimensions added.


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SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: '65 Fastback Sheet Metal Question
« on: April 10, 2019, 02:40:25 PM »
By the way Corey - CAD modeling that piece is pretty cool. Can you reverse the design to model the driver side, too?

Maybe Dynomax can use the files to create billet pieces! ;)

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SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: '65 Fastback Sheet Metal Question
« on: April 10, 2019, 02:33:34 PM »
Too be honest, that post took me a bit more than an hour, but I was so "busy" that it got me out of dish washing duty.
(just kidding - we ate out last night).

Thx for the kind words. I was a silent SAAC member for several years, just leaching off everyone else's great forum information to help me with my Mustang restomod. I decided to jump in the pool after the 2018 Forum Meltdown. Thought it was time to try to contribute where I can.

Corey, I'll get you those dimensions after I get home tonight.

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SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: '65 Fastback Sheet Metal Question
« on: April 10, 2019, 02:28:18 AM »
Hi Dynomax,
I happen to be working on my 65 Fastback and this part of my car is wide open, so I took the opportunity for some photos and measurements. I don't think it would be too hard to fabricate this bracket. I'd tackle this with a piece of 11-gauge steel, a jigsaw, vice, drill, ball peen hammer and some files to smooth it out.

The floor area where the bracket is welded slopes back from level at 8-degrees. The wall behind slopes back at 19 degrees. I created a 3-view dimension drawing for the passenger side bracket. The driver side is the reverse.

I suspect it would be pretty easy to find someone who can weld a bit better than was done on my car.

I donít know if you will find this useful, but it kept me entertained for an hour or so. Smooth roads!





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Services Offered / Re: Barn Find Apparel
« on: March 23, 2019, 10:01:59 PM »
Rockin' my new "Barn Find" T-shirt.

The wife had to take the picture quick, 'cause I can't suck in my gut for as long as I used to.



12
Appeals / Shop Crane Leaks Down
« on: March 20, 2019, 01:01:01 AM »
I was walking through Harbor Freight long ago and discovered a 2-Ton folding shop crane on deep discount. I wasn't in need of a crane at that time, but I was surprised with the beefy construction and decent weld quality. I normally limit my H.F. tool-buying to technology in the "crowbar" category, but in a weak moment, I bought it and squirreled it away.

Now that I've got a need, it is set-up and in use, but I may have discovered why it was such a screaming deal. The hydraulic ram slowly leaks down. By slow, I mean, with my 289 on the boom, it drops about 1"/min. With only the boom weight, it sinks about 0.25"/min. This makes for anxious moments while installing and removing the engine in my nicely-painted bay. I've been moving the engine in and out repeatedly in order to resolve my Mustang's bent-frame issues and also am trying to fit several custom items. It would help if I could lock the ram and have it stay in place like my 1982-vintage Sears floor jack. If it's feasible, it would also be a bonus if I could get a finer adjustment on the pressure release (boom lowering control).

I tried bleeding the system. I didn't think that would help and it didn't, but the manual had the procedure, so what the heck. Any suggestions to resolve this? Would it make sense to take the Chinese "Pittsburgh"-brand 8-Ton ram to a local hydraulics shop for a valve job, or is that just throwing good money after bad on a low-quality tool? If I get a new ram, any suggestions for brands or sources for a good-quality replacement? The frame works great if I could get a decent ram in it.


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1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 SHELBY REGISTRY Ė 2019 EDITION
« on: March 14, 2019, 12:01:22 AM »
Mine arrived in today in good condition.
Worth the wait!


14
Services Offered / Re: Barn Find Apparel
« on: March 11, 2019, 02:29:27 PM »
Me, too.
 
(Oh no - not those words! ;) )

Looks like a good idea - I hope you do well!

Only suggestion would be to increase your base price to $28.13 and call it "Free Shipping" for standard orders.

Then if buyers want it faster, they can pay a bit more for the service.


15
Up For Auction / Re: FoMoCo Parts have gotten Ridiculous on eBay
« on: March 02, 2019, 01:11:31 AM »
Shelf wear?
Maybe the Continental Shelf.

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