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Messages - mygt350

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1
Guess the inner fender SA plate goes with the car?

2
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 6S1134 On Its Way
« on: May 21, 2020, 11:33:49 AM »
Pucker factor has got to be high when it rolls on the truck and when it rolls off.

3
Replicas and Tribute / Re: setting initial timing advance
« on: May 19, 2020, 10:44:31 PM »
This was a running engine when put in garage with clutch fluid issues. I have pulled pass side cover to watch both valves and when they are closed, bumped starter just a small bit to get it at 0 and at 12BTDC.  put pointer at number 1 with wires going correctly. It will not run, it will not even burp. I have to rotate cap clockwise 45 degrees before it runs at all. With that much cap rotation, it should have spit and pop with that much turning. This is same distributor that was in engine last 7 years. Have set it up at least 10 times and each time, I have to move cap 45 degrees before it half ass runs. Have installed lot of distributors in my time, but I do not understand what's going on here.

4
Replicas and Tribute / Re: setting initial timing advance
« on: May 17, 2020, 07:26:51 PM »
TDC on balancer is pointing directly at timing marker plate and its on compression stroke. Have distributor clocked and fully seated with rotor button pointing directly at number one terminal on cap and it will not begin to start. Have to rotate cap almost 2 inches clockwise before it begins to run and kinds idle. Something else is really wrong. When it runs, it actually sounds pretty good. No misfire, burps or anything. And I moved distributor enough to cause significant misfire...

Calling frickin wrecker and drag the bitch to a local shop...or car lot...

5
Replicas and Tribute / Re: setting initial timing advance
« on: May 17, 2020, 06:27:29 PM »
It is a MSD distributor and cap does not have any marking to designate number one. But I set balancer at zero (TDC) on compression stroke. removed dizzy cap and dropped it in so that rotor was very close to where I wanted number one wire to be on cap. About 11 position on cap. Then, placed a scribe against pointer and marked where other end hit intake runner. Holding the scribe in place, set cap on distributor and rotated base until plug wire terminal for number one was perfectly aligned with edge of scribe.
Would drill a cap to visually see things, but I done have a spare MSD cap.
So I am correct to set balancer to TDB on timing tab and drop distributor so that pointer is really close to number one and rotate base go get it spot on?
Martin

6
Replicas and Tribute / setting initial timing advance
« on: May 17, 2020, 06:03:16 PM »
Have a 351 Windsor that I am putting a MSD distributor in.

Have heard two different ways to set initial advance. One is ensure number one piston is on compression stroke by examining both rockers to ensure the valves are closed. Also check to see if TDC mark on balancer matches timing marker. Rotate engine until pointer is set to zero which is Top Dead Center (TDC) then stab distributor so that rotor pointer is close to where number one plug wire is attached to cap. However, you should be able to install distributor wherever you chose and simply rewire cap accordingly. cap can be rotated to get close to rotor button.

The other method is to set timing 10-15 degrees before TDC and stab distributor with rotor button pointing to where you want number one plug wire to go.. Number one plug wire can be anywhere on cap as long as correct firing order is maintained.

So, if I set it to 0 (TDC) and rotate cap to get 12 BTDC at idle or I set it to 12 BTDC then fire it up, results are same, I get 12 BTDC. Still need to adjust cap to ensure whatever initial idle I want is achieved.

So how do the timing experts install a mechanical advance distributor to get proper initial advance????

351 Windsor stroked to 408 with Crane roller, MSD distributor and Crane box.

Martin
5S228

7
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: SAAC is not living up to it's purpose
« on: March 29, 2020, 01:55:36 PM »
I have sometimes asked questions that I first should have done some degree of due diligence in researching for myself. But I jumped out there and  asked anyway. Sometimes I would get a answer and others, crickets. Then I had to ask myself, are the questions I am asking overly hard or are they about a subject only a few individuals would remotely have clue what I was talking about or why I was even asking it in first place. I have great respect for the dedicated folks here who recognize what its all about and are willing to share some of their life long experience. In my particular instance, there are 65 Mustangs and there are 65 Mustangs fortunate enough to become 65 GT350's that had so many unique things done to them, only another owner would have a clue why I am so anal about how a oil pressure line was cut and routed by the boys at SA when they did the oil line installation. To me, it MATTERS how and where the factory harness was cut and even if it was retaped or not. If I don't get a response to these type questions, I don't get my Hanes in a wad. Not everyone know how many holes a early Detroit Locker has in the sides, was it 12 or 4 and to me, why did they change. These folks, even those who sit behind thousands of lights at 49,000 feet getting coffee spilled on them by the FA, are invaluable, each in their own way. Remember, the average age of original owners is getting up there and we are not all the sharpest tack in the box. To some, this is a hobby, others, it is an escape and a portal to a much different time and place. These cars are an extension of ourselves. Its way too easy to heap wet warm cow pie in a fan than it is to have patience and respect for our mutual friends and their unique qualities, and sometimes quirks.

Where else can you go to find that special header bolt that was only used on a early GT350 that average person will never see. SAAC..

Nuff said and I burned my soap box.

8
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 65 Alternator Charge Indicator Lamp Wiring
« on: March 27, 2020, 08:23:12 AM »
Bo, I kept looking at the schematic and in my old feeble mind, decided it just had to be wrong, but it kept nagging me kinda like Dirty Harry, man, I gotsa know, did ya shoot 5 or was it 6...So far, that's the only error I have found in the Osborne Schematics, but of course, I am only interested in the 65's...Can't imagine why...
Thanks my friend.

9
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 65 GT350 Oil pressure sender wire routing.
« on: March 27, 2020, 08:18:38 AM »
Thanks Bo. Someone once told me the entire connector to the sender was tucked back and retaped into the harness and that just didn't sound like something one of Shelbys guys with a pair of side cutters handy would do back in the day. Snip, problem solved. Assume they added short piece of tape to attach the cut wire back to harness and keep it from showing?

10
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: This is my new office
« on: March 26, 2020, 08:29:23 PM »
Nice view!

11
1965 GT350/R-Model / 65 Alternator Charge Indicator Lamp Wiring
« on: March 26, 2020, 06:28:16 PM »
Been looking at the cluster wiring for the 65 Charge Indicator Light and it does not match either of the 65's I have had in shop recently. Specifically, the wiring diagram (link below) shows the Charge indicator lamp connected to the red-green (16) pigtail on back of ignition switch before it connects to the Pink Resister wire (16A) and on to one of the master disconnect blocks on the firewall. My car (5S228) 16 comes from back of ignition switch and connects to the resister wire which goes into the main disconnect block. Wire on indicator lamp is referred to as 30 and is black-green before connecting to resister wire. Other lead on indicator is Green-red and is referred to as 904 which goes to the alternator/regulator. My issue is I don't see where the indicator (30) is supposed to connect to . Either my wiring and the other car's wiring is really screwed up or schematic is wrong. Can you help please?
>>
The lamp in the car functions, but I cannot figure out if schematic is wrong or what?

When I put cluster back in the other car, could not get charge indicator to light up as it should. Started chasing wires and the disparity focused on, the charge indicator. Actually, problem was failed lamp... duh... still can't figure out where its supposed to connect at 30.
>>
>> http://averagejoerestoration.com/resources/mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/1965-mustang-wiring-diagrams/1965c.jpg
>>

12
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Cobra valve cover baffles
« on: March 25, 2020, 12:00:13 PM »
Have you ever run across what you know to be an original set that did not appear to be galvanized?

13
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Cobra valve cover baffles
« on: March 25, 2020, 11:09:31 AM »
Don't remember originals resembling galvanized metal. I have pieces of a set of original baffles removed by an enterprising soul with a drill. I can find them and gey you metal thickness and possibly create a template to fix the damages set I have and if it turns out like I want, will gladly send to you the outline and proper bend angles for a drop in fit. These will be for original 65 open letter covers.
Keep reminding me as I am not on my game as I once was.
Martin.

14
1965 GT350/R-Model / 65 GT350 Oil pressure sender wire routing.
« on: March 25, 2020, 11:03:41 AM »
When Shelby removed the original electric oil pressor sensor in block and replaced it to the metal block and connected the braided line to the dash mounted gauge in the pod, what exactly did they do with the braided portion of the original oil pressure sender wire? Was it cut at some undisclosed some location or was the original braided harness folded and taped back to the original harness leg that went to molded plug on water temp, coil and oil temp sender on firewall? Can anyone with knowledge please let me know exactly how SA accomplished the mod to the original oil pressure line? Would also really appreciate seeing pic of the two wires to the heater fan motor where they connect. Should be yellow/brown out of fan motor connecting to I assume same color wires to firewall molded plug connector. Am doing after last minute fixes to 5S228 after it has left to its new home for summer vacation and maybe quite bit longer given current health issues poping up lately....
Pictures would be a God send.

Thanks

I can actually see SA cutting wire to save weight.....

15
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Holley 715 opinions and advice
« on: March 22, 2020, 02:51:11 PM »
I sent my 715 to Drew and he did a fantastic job. My carb was not cruddy on outside but had some junk in the float bowls. I chose a good clean and a rebuild versus replate, etc. Unless its crazy dirty, I would lean against plating and leave "patina" as is.
Just my 2 cents. But Drew is "da man". Doesn't do unnecessary work, but work he does is top shelf. Plus, he is a good person as well.

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