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Messages - Bob Gaines

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Yes you're right. I just looked at a 390 fork I have lying around . Sorry. I got that part number number off the Coralsnake site. But the '68 GT500 fork I'm pretty sure has a part number on it that's different from the Cobra Jet fork which is C8OE-7515-D. I had one but I didn't take a picture of the part number before I sold it. But did the correct for '67 fork have a C7 part number stamped on it?
The fork used on the 67 GT 500 did not have a metal stamped engineering number into it like the CJ fork did.

I have a Ford service part that has no identification stamped into it.

If I understand this correctly, if the snipped off corner can be replaced and camouflaged then there will be no external give away to the replacement fork?  :)
You are over simplifying the effort but yes to your question. FYI you are not the first to think of this solution.  You may be surprised at the labor involved to accomplish the look not to mention the skill to pull it off. Been there done that. ;)  A modified CJ fork is the best way to get the proper function and look. Of course you will also have to modify the pivot point in the bellhousing to accommodate the different style fork . You have to disguise the replacement machine screws for the replacement pivot to look from the outside like undisturbed factory rivets.   FYI the fork is made of hardened type steel and is very hard to work with.

Wanted to Buy / Re: 1969 Shelby Hood Pin Bracket
« on: Today at 06:27:27 PM »
Maybe I need to start producing them. Lol
It most likely has to do with specifically only wanting the one side. That is not a typical request. Pairs are more common relatively speaking. Just saying.

I was going to send mine to get refurbished. I'm not 100% which one of the three I have was off my 67 GT500. Is there a part number or anything else I can use to distinguish it from a regular mustang one (if there is a difference in the first place).
If there is a best looking casting use that one to rebuild would be my advice. There is not a Shelby unique power control value. They are the same as regular Mustang.

I can't find the part number for the pilot bushing for the 67 GT500. People keep giving me the small block bushing.

Anyone have a part number for this? It doesn't need to be a Ford service part.
It doesn't show up in bools because there were so few big input GT500. only 390 shows up. Try 69 428 Cobra jet . It is the same bushing.

Replicas and Tribute / Re: 65 horn switch placement
« on: October 29, 2020, 10:20:45 PM »
OK Thanks Bob, so correct location is next to radio knob height then?,,as in pictures 2&3
They could vary some. It was meant to basically line up with the radio knobs up and down .side to side some were centered between the edge of the cluster and the radio knobs . Some slightly to one side or the other . From the variations it gives the impression the hole was put in free hand. If they had a template it didn't work the same every time.

Services Offered / Re: Current Carburetor Inventory
« on: October 29, 2020, 10:10:46 PM »

I recently purchased a 1966 Gt350 that was produced on 6-21-1966 and is missing the original carb. What would be the correct dated carb for that date build?

Thanks in advance.

Trying to help Drew, Carbs were added at the Cleveland engine plant so that would have to be taken into account for logistics.

Appeals / Re: SPEC Rearend Chunk
« on: October 29, 2020, 09:21:08 PM »

Is what Matt is selling the center section for the rear end that is the limited slip mechanism that a 1966 GT350 owner could have purchase around that time?


Mark, no the SPEC cases were used on 67 GT500's.
Actually the 67 GT500 typically had a spec case. It was 67 GT350 that it was typically not used in.

Appeals / Re: SPEC Rearend Chunk
« on: October 29, 2020, 09:19:26 PM »

Is what Matt is selling the center section for the rear end that is the limited slip mechanism that a 1966 GT350 owner could have purchase around that time?

Matt is selling something that would have come in a 67 Shelby not a 66 . The unit would not be something that would be easily ordered in the 66 67 time frame.

Replicas and Tribute / Re: 65 horn switch placement
« on: October 29, 2020, 06:44:24 PM »
Was the "S" version horn switch placement dfferent than the "R" version placement?  Higher or lower in position to radio knob also? 5003 seems to move around depening who had it. Just wondering if there is a "correct" spot?
Not typically different locations. 003 being the first car is not the best car to copy for standardized details . The race models typically had the horns taken off. The driver didn't need to honk out on the track at speed to warn someone to get out of the way.  ;) I know shameless sarcasm . Of course you will want horns if driving your car on the street.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Advice wanted from a '66 GT350H expert
« on: October 29, 2020, 06:35:39 PM »
I am considering purchasing a 66 GT350H and would like advice from a GT350H expert in the context of the car's authenticity. I will inspect the car for mechanical condition, but just want to be sure this car is not a cloner. The car's engine has been replaced with a 302 and has a period correct 3 speed auto and 9" rear. It can be viewed here:

Understanding the challenges with determining a vehicle's authenticity on a computer screen, I am not looking for guarantees - just looking for a reasonable assumption that it's not a clone. Hopefully one of you is familiar with this car. Seller states that it is car SFM6S1208.


John,although nice looking from 10 feet away when you examine the bones it looks like there are a lot of issues seen in the pictures. Unfortunately from the pictures I can not conclusively determine if it is a rebody/clone . The tag is genuine. From the pictures it looks like a car that has had extensive metal repair, frame rails floor work and who knows what else  . If you were looking for historical accuracy then I would suggest try again . It has many incorrect parts,many missing original parts .The restorer for example didn't even know enough to get the correct reproduction Hertz chrome wheels.  It has many wrong assembly details when put together , so much so that I can tell you with my judges hat on this car would be far from placing in a SAAC or MCA concours venue. Red flags all over . I would confirm if even the engine is a genuine Hipo engine vs a regular 289 with performance mods bolted on let alone original vin stamped to the car. The same goes for the very rare and different hipo automatic transmission. Some of these things may not be a concern to you . You do need to be informed so that the you know what you are getting.  It may be a genuine Shelby body but what with all that is wrong with the car that I can see from the pictures you need confirmation from a knowledgeable person. I unfortunately am unavailable to inspect cars during the covid crisis . Pete Giesler at Orlando Mustang is close and may already know the car. I don't know what he charges for inspections. Best of luck with getting what you want.

So I’m assuming 1/4” is what we should be using?

Yes . The C8 marked 5/16 pressure hose helps support this consensus.

What is the consensus on the date change for the pressure port on the power steering control valve pressure port for a 1967 Shelby?  Mine is a May 1967 San Jose build.  Was it a transition during 1967 production (early vs. late) or had the change from 1/4” to 5/16” been made before all 1967 Shelby production?

Thanks in advance

Jon, the change happed after 67 Shelby production had ceased.

1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Cooling problems
« on: October 28, 2020, 06:12:32 PM »
I just want to make sure I have the right fan on my car.   Does anyone know the correct fan part number for a 69 GT 350 with Air Conditioning?  I’m not sure but this might be part of my cooling issue.

Thanks Dan
In reply 22 you state that you have a 5 blade flex fan. Regardless of if it is the correct factory application fan or not, one 5 blade flex fan will not significantly effect cooling + or - over the other .  You probably don't want to read it again but the info what was in reply #11 and #14 are most likely the cause and the cure . 40 over is a lot on a block. Since this is a condition that has manifested itself since you owned the car the over heating because of overbore is very plausible. It might be time to try the auxiliary electric fan to see if that band aids the problem.

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Backup Wire Harness Retainer
« on: October 28, 2020, 04:20:45 PM »
67 and 68 clip are the same. I figure that the people Spec Ed gave his original patterns to decided that they were so close in appearance to each other that no one would know the difference and so they made just the 69 style. They are so hard to find usable if at all it is a blessing that we have at least the 69 version available to use as a universal.

Of all the recall cars I've seen that I consider original (not factory installed aluminum) the majority have been the S2. Can't explain it just is
Charles, yes coil on passenger cylinder head that I have seen were both automatics so no Thermactor. Point I was making was dealer installed them in a multitude of ways
+1 same same.

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