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Messages - shelbydoug

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16
The Lounge / Re: Thanks Ron
« on: March 06, 2024, 09:49:12 PM »
I am obviously missing something here? A fence?

17
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: 10-Soke lug nuts
« on: February 29, 2024, 08:21:39 PM »
Shelby Parts and Restoration used to sell stainless steel ten spoke /69 Shelby lugnuts . It was found out that you had to continuously re torque them as they frequently worked loose. Not the case with the chromed steel lugnuts.

A switch from carbon steel to stainless steel in a structural application, such as lug nuts, is going to have risks.

I don't know of any application where stainless steel is used for other then a cosmetic application. It is never used for a structural application.

Where it gets threaded together, it has problems with the structural integrity of the cut threads themselves.

The chromed steel lug nuts need anti-seize compound as well.

I actually think that 100lbs-ft of torque on stainless steel is over stressing the threads.

18
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: 10-Soke lug nuts
« on: February 28, 2024, 09:54:43 AM »
It is a VERY good idea to use anti-seize compound on the studs and lugs. Just don't over do it.

Once re-torqued the lugs will stay where you set them.

If you don't ant-seize the studs, just washing the car and letting the lugs sit for a year or so will tend to stress out the lugs in breaking them loose. They are not hardened steel and it is easy to deform them otherwise.

In addition, it wasn't mentioned, BUT ANYWHERE you use stainless steel bolts or nuts, you virtually have to use anti-seize on them. Those things just chafe the threads for no reason and strip out easily if you don't.

19
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Clutch recommendations for Big Blocks
« on: February 22, 2024, 12:00:13 PM »
I agree with Tim on the diaphram thing. They work fine and have less effort but you will never get the clutch pedal to be at the correct height. It is always too low.

The other thing is that the Centerforce in particular will push the pedal up when you are over about 5,000 rpms and I'm used to it but it always catches me by surprise and distracts me from the job at hand, which is paying attention that you don't wreck the car and kill somebody while you are at it.

The stock long three finger is what everything in the clutch pedal system is designed to operate. The diaphram is good but definitely an alien device to a vintage Mustang.


IF for some inexplicable reason that you let someone else drive the car with the diaphram in it, they are going to ask you "what's wrong with your clutch?"

20
The Lounge / Re: Post count removed
« on: February 21, 2024, 02:18:14 PM »
Hey, what happened to my post count?
  Your'e a Victim Of Circumstance  :(  :-\  ;)

 ;D

21
The Lounge / Re: Does Farley have any toes left......
« on: February 21, 2024, 02:17:12 PM »
I think his days are numbered?

22
I think 544 actually got the medium riser with the aluminum heads that Ford called the GT40 engine. Aluminum water pump. Aluminum hub on the balancer. Magnesium intake.

Limited to 10.5:1 and 425hp in order to survive the 24hrs of Lemans.

Originally Ford referred to the cam as a "special grind" but I never saw the specs on that one but it looked like the standard solid lifter MR grind to me? Others may know more about that one.

As far as I know, you had to be someone special to get one from Ford. You just couldn't buy one from the Ford Service Department at your local dealer.

23
Sometimes trying to have a discussion with you guys is like trying to talk about diamonds to a gemologist.

However I've never heard one say that the diamond is too shiny?

At this point, for some inexplicable reason, I see the logic in the lyric, "black is black, I want my baby back"?

24
It's pretty. I'd like it better with the ink stamps also but it is so good, I'd be seeking perfection if I went that far.

It doesn't bother me that some things that could be silver or clear cad are done in yellow cad.

It is very, very nice.

25
Prices?

26
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: 428 compression
« on: February 17, 2024, 07:02:42 PM »
All I can do is speak of my experience.

As I said, I may be wrong. You can verify that with my wife. She will tell you that I am always wrong.

My experience is that those readings are too high. Proceed as you will.


...oh...it isn't the static compression ratio, it is the cam timing. You blow the useless compression out through the cam timing.

I think you are clueless. FE cold cranking numbers I am familiar with - they vary greatly depending on camshaft and engine condition - but those numbers are typical. If you are saying otherwise you simply have no experience.

Thanks Royce. Love to you too Babe.  ;)

27
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: 428 compression
« on: February 17, 2024, 02:55:26 PM »
All I can do is speak of my experience.

As I said, I may be wrong. You can verify that with my wife. She will tell you that I am always wrong.

My experience is that those readings are too high. Proceed as you will.


...oh...it isn't the static compression ratio, it is the cam timing. You blow the useless compression out through the cam timing.

28
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: 428 compression
« on: February 17, 2024, 12:11:37 PM »
It is entirely possible that I am wrong on this BUT I am not a novice at all.

The DESIRED compression readings should be in the 125 to 135 psi range.

The readings you are posting are WAY TOO HIGH. They are APPROACHING (but not quite there) what you would expect to see in a diesel engine.

Diesel engines work without spark. They just compress the fuel with high pressure until it explodes.


The largest component in high readings like yours is the camshaft timing. I would say that it does not have enough overlap, i.e., the intake and exhaust open at the same time to permit the compression to bleed out.

All that you are going to get with those numbers that you have is an engine that can not run on pump gas as we know it and an engine that is difficult to turn over hot on a restart.


As I said, I may be completely wrong here on this but I don't think so. I've gone through this so much more then just a few times myself.

In any case, that engine is showing good compression and more then likely could use a nice "valve job" and new valve train components and those procedures will balance out the compression to a great deal.



29
Parts For Sale / Re: NOS 1968 wood grain instrument cluster bezel
« on: February 15, 2024, 12:48:16 PM »
Only time I would expect to sell something at a discount to a dealer would be when I contacted the dealer directly to inquire if they're interested in purchasing.  Totally get that they have to make a profit.  This is only necessary when fire-selling or need to unload quickly... or have a lot of items to unload at once.

Some of the prices I've been seeing on parts over the past few years will take your breath away.  I'm not sure if I'm out of line on the bezel, it seems like a lot, but I haven't seen one of these offered this nice in a long time.  Seems most of the available NOS stock these days are the 2nds/3rds/4ths...

I'm not criticizing anyone's asking price on anything. There is no Kelly Blue Book on parts. It is not really a simple task to set a price on something and is an educated guess at best.

If we presume that the claimed new high selling point of a part that someone ha is a 10 out of 10, IF presuming there is even a such thing, then how do you set a price on a 8 out of 10?

Logically it is not at 50% or lower. It should be around 80% but that is not what the current market is indicating. It's more like "garage sale" and people are showing up offering you 25 cents for that old LIFE magazine.


About 1978, there was a local guy that was coming to the SOA meetings. He had just purchased a pretty nice white 4 speed 67 GT500.

He loved to come to the meets and point out that he had bought it for $800. He just loved to aggravate everyone with that. I haven't seen him in years.

I wonder if he resold the car and got more then $800 for it?

I think that maybe at this moment, there is a "bah humbug" thing going on and my '67 GT500 parts for sale are only '67 Mustang parts for sale in the eyes of the current quality of buyers. Maybe right there that's the current problem?

The quality of the buyers isn't there at the moment? Lots of parts are going unsold and people are only looking for what we used to refer to as "fire sales"?

Eh. Enough bitching on my part. It isn't my intention to ruin anyone's day. Complaining though does seem to be an indication of some sort of recovery?

Incidentally. I lock my for sale ads so nobody like me can come along and ruin your sale. My apologies.

30
Parts For Sale / Re: NOS 1968 wood grain instrument cluster bezel
« on: February 15, 2024, 09:30:47 AM »
I wish you guys would hold off on selling your NOS 68 stuff.  :D I'm trying to buy a 68 but have to wait until spring to see if I get it. By then all the NOS stuff will be gone. Maybe I need to tell Seraphim he needs doubles(well it would be triples on some parts).

Well I think that you are very courageous to consider a new project? Speaking for myself only, frankly, I'm priced out now and it is getting worse.

To add insult to injury, potential buyers of my parts tell me that I'm out of line with my asking prices and suggest that the market values are more like 25 cents on a dollar to what I want for them?


IN FACT I had one "dealer" tell me WTF do I think I am? I need to sell my parts to him at a "wholesale price", whatever that is, so he could turn around and sell it for "retail" and that he was justified in the price because he was a dealer?


So apparently as a seller now, it depends on who you are and if you are nobody like me, your parts are just worth junk prices?


I think that is worth thinking about for anyone looking to get into a new project if you have any hopes of finishing it accurately without having to use "jabonga" aftermarket stuff to get it finished?
I have always found it humorous since the advent of social media that there are those who think you should sell at a discount because they are dealers. Now at a Frank "bundling" I'd like to get a discount but that would be for a lot of parts as in a whole "lot" of parts so then a seller could decide is it worth offering a discount so these are all gone at once(time is money) or not? Yeah, a project these days scare me more so than 15 years ago but when you find a 1 owner 30K mile car sitting since the early 70s in a great color and manual well... I won't restore my 428 SCJ 4 speed candy apple Mach1 because the price of  original parts missing  and my labor and the price of a paint job does not justify me doing that to my car. a #3 car that shows great from 10 feet away but has it's warts because it was restored around 1990(is that correct Dan?) and abused at SAAC events on the east coast mostly. i'll just continue enjoying it for now as is.

...OR that YOU can't get that kind of a price for YOUR car because those were AUCTION PRICES...but I'll give you HALF of that!

Maybe there are just some truths coming out of the "auctions"? One thing that the "auction people" will say, "the car didn't bring the expected price because "the right buyer wasn't in the building"?


The same with some parts. It is only worth "that" to the "right buyer" and you just need to hold out until they appear.

Honestly though, the higher the parts go, the smaller the market becomes.

The folks that bought a '67 GT500 40 years ago for $500 and are just getting around to "restoring it" now are gonna' have some financial issues that can not be rolled back 40 years.

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