SAAC Forum

I want to make a shout out to Dave Mathews and his steering wheel puller he had made for use on the '67 Shelby wheels.  Our GT500, #906's steering wheel would not come off.  Tried the center punch on the steering column, the air chisel trick but this thing wouldn't budge.
I contacted Dave and he was nice enough to send me the puller he had made and a thing of beauty it is.  This thing is top quality, fits like a glove and with a little use of a flex bar on the center bolt, off pops the steering wheel.  I used more time placing the wheel puller around the wheel hub than it took to tighten the bolt and remove the wheel.
I want to thank Dave for the use of the puller, his knowledge of the GT500's and his contributions to this forum.  A nicer man you will not find.

Terry Hill

OK, thanks for those responses.  I think I'll try some new pan bolts and retorque.  I see 9-11 lbs. for the oil pan and 12 lbs. for the trans pan.  Sound correct??

Happy New Year to all!  I have a hard time keeping my oil pan bolts and the bolts on the auto. trans. oil pan tight on my '67 GT500, #906.  Seems like 2 or 3 times a year I'm under the car tightening them.  My present oil pan bolts have the "captured" lock washer and the trans. oil pan bolts have the "hex washer" heads as per the AMK catalog nomenclature.  The AMK catalog shows a "Ford Oil Pan" bolt on page 97, bottom line, far left corner of the page.  This bolt has a "conical" captured washer.

I see in the NPD catalog, "concours" bolt kits for each of these application.  Page 185, item #7A194-2AK for the trans. bolts and page 144, item
#6675-4AK for the oil pan bolts.

Which of these options is correct?  Especially for the oil pan, captured lock washers or conical head captured.  And are the trans. pan bolts listed correct?  Anything special about them?

Thanks for any responses.

OK, thanks to all for the quick reply.

Terry

Can someone please set me straight?  "67 GT500, outboard lights are only low beam and inboard lights are high beam?
My car presently has outboard lights that are low/high beam and inners that come on with high beam.

Looking for new bulbs that's why I'm asking.

Thanks for the help.

Terry

OK, I'll take a look.

Thanks.

Anyone know know where I can purchase some rubber drain tubes for the air extractors (upper scoops) on my '67 GGT500?  These have the "belled" end where they attach onto the extractor bottom.

Thanks for the help.

OK, thanks for all the suggestions and comments.  I may have found a set of used originals.  Will need to be re-covered.  Has anyone used "Just Dashes" for door panel re-covering or can recommend someone else to re-cover these??

Thanks.

#906 should be coming back from the paint shop next month.  I'm busy getting all the interior parts cleaned up and ready for re-installation.  I've never been able to get my door panels (re-pops) to fit flat against the doors (originals unfortunately long gone).  My panels have a stiff foam filling in the back of them and are pretty much non-flexable.  They also have a bit of a curve to them from top to bottom which makes them want to pull away from the door.

What are other using for deluxe door panels??  I see some that have "hard press board", "masonite" wood backing and "MDF" backing.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any help.

Can anyone help me find a new set of rubber gaskets for the interior portion of the air extractor on the 1967 Shelby?  This is one that fits on the fiberglass "drain assembly" (C7ZB-63278B90-1, drain assy. - quarter vent) in the body assembly manual.  I'd like to get some new one's before I put this all back together after paint.

Thanks.

OK, thanks to Jeff and Royce.  This forum is awesome for stuff like this.

Thanks Jeff.  Any idea what dimensions the nuts are and bolt thread size??

Appreciate the help.

Terry

Can anyone tell me where to locate the bolts and nuts to attach the rear lower corner of the front fenders on My '67 GT500?  Car is undergoing a repaint and front fenders are off and there were no correct bolts and nuts to attach them.  Are the nuts a "cage" nut as shown in the AMK catalog?  Anyone have a quick pictures of how this should look?

Thanks for the help.

Sent #906 off for new paint on Monday.  Had it bead blasted last month, did some sanding on it per the painter and then bombed canned it with primer to keep the rust off until the painter gets working on it.  Will need a new drivers side lower rocker panel and the front end has had damage years ago.  That will all be repaired along with new radiator support and torsion bar support brackets.  I'll see it after the first of the year.

So, #906 is going in for new paint next month.  While this won't be a concourse restoration, I would like to make it as factory correct as I can.  I'm looking for replacement insulation/sound deadening material for around the rear fender wells, and the upper and lower air scoop area.  Currently I can't find any material to match some of the original material still on the car.  Anyone have suggestions as to where to find this material?  Also, I'd like to replace my Deluxe door panels with the brushed aluminum inserts as the ones on the car now are hard as rocks and don't lay flat on the doors.  Anyone have suggestions here also as to who has a quality door panel that fits well?
Thanks for your help.