SAAC Forum

Not a chance

It's a great time to buy-if you have some pesos and can find the right deal.  If this thing is original (and it looks the part), rust free and running (a bonus by my thinking), 25k all day long.  It's a cool car esp. with the pony interior.  Buy it right (i.e., thorough inspection)-clean it up and enjoy it.  If all goes to plan-that's where you'll have the most equity-maybe in and out at 40k imo.  Provided of course, you can get the owner to respond-which he hasn't yet. 

2112-from someone who lived the same experience, excellent and sometimes overlooked insight on your part re: the unexpected & unplanned cash outlay/had enough syndrome.  His first intuition would have been a better and wiser choice imo.  Clean it up and drive it.  For at least a full year.  Then decide what to do with it.  Once that first bolt comes off, you're f'd.  Unless of course, that's what you wanted from the get go... which is fine.  Reading between the lines, I also sense that the owner was just plain old exhausted (and likely fed up) as he reached the finish line.  And once there, he had no idea what to do with the car.  I will never again forget to ask myself one question: why am I buyng this car. 

Okay, can someone pls. clarify and then perhaps explain what a '67 (any '67) would have left the LAX facility wearing-hubcaps or m'stars.  Did SA decide on its own or was it predicated on the respective order form in advance or by the dealer once it landed.  Meaning-the car left LAX with something on its feet-was that it or could the dealer then alter the "factory" application.  And, if so, what would be considered "SA/factory correct".         

Many thanks.

what's the last letter on the tire "Goodyear GT?"

Great question on the tires as I'd like to know as well.

Again, it's a matter of preference for ea. owner-something I respect.  My intent was only to offer an option-and then, only if available after doing your due diligence. 

At the risk of sounding like a wise ass and only b/c the issue has not yet been presented, why complete the registration/title paperwork and pay the sales tax (typically based on current nada) noting the vehicles as a "Shelby" when you can, in most cases, accomplish the very same thing (and save thousands in the process) noting the car as a "Mustang-2 dr. Coupe/Convertible".  Depending on the particular state's process for registering/titling a vehicle, as long as the description in both the BOS and most recent proof of ownership (typically a registration from your seller) jive, you should have no issue with the latter option.  And, even if you do provide the Shelby vin on your paperwork, but then describe the vehicle as a Mustang, most rmv tellers are not sophisticated enough (or just don't care enough) to dig beyond the "Mustang" name/description on your BOS & prior reg.  I could argue, and have successfully, that the vehicle is actually a "Mustang".  Fine line-maybe, but savvy.  BTW-I'm not aware of any cases where negative repercussions have occurred down stream if/when you decide to sell-in fact, your buyer will be all smiles.  Of course, those hell bent on registering/titling their vehicle as a real deal "Shelby" will have no use for this post.  Cheers.

Is it odd that the article never mentions that it was a "Paxton" unit? 

What color would be correct for the top of a '67/350 water temp. sending unit with a May 17, '67 build date.  I've seen white, red etc.  Would both be correct in that it was just a production run change? 

Looking for an original/nos/working temp sending unit for a '67-350.  Thx.

And, w/ or w/o reels. 

Sorry gang-shoulder harnesses/seatbelts.  Thx.

Looking for a set of original harnesses for a '67/350.  Thx.