SAAC Forum

I used Eastwood's radiator paint on the cooling fins where they can be seen.  And used a a semigloss in the upper tank

The only deviation from stock on my car is a Edelbrock performer cam, Aluminium radiator,  K&N air filter. The engine was bored .040 over it has stock heads, pulleys and fan  its a close ratio 4speed also I'm running a Gear Vendor over drive and a 325 rear gear the cooling problem is at idle and low speeds.

   The stock looking radiators  I have a ACP radiator I know Griffin has one that looks almost exactly like the ACP I'm not sure who else makes them.

I have received a lot of good information here and I really appreciate it.  now it's time tip put it to use.   Thank you everyone

Thank you everyone for the information. I'm running the stock 5 blade flex fan.  I wonder if I have the wrong spacer for the fan.  I will also check the timing.  I've been given a lot of good suggestions I'll try them hope fully one will work thank you again

Dan

Bob it's been going on since I have owned the car  bought it in 97 the engine was rebuilt and bored over .040 around that time.  I've been driving it a lot more these past years to where it's becoming more of a problem.  I'm getting sick of having to pull over in stop and go traffic to let it cool down.   It seems to me the fan is too far in the shroud.  I have a clutch and fan assembly a buddy gave me years ago from a 68 GT350 I wanted to try it to see if it improve my cooling but I wasn't sure if it would work. The measurements I took of the clutch assy would put the fan about 2/3's in the shroud.  Just trying to save some money with all that has been going on lately

Thank you for the advice. I've been chasing this problem for a while I already have a high volume water pump and  high flow thermostat (160 Deg) installed in the car the radiator is an aluminum 3 row 24 inch that I installed last year. This seem to be an air flow problem at idle and low speeds. The temp gauge only goes a 1/4 of the way when driving on the highway but you can watch it climb when at a long stop light or driving in traffic under 25 MPH.  I try the rust 911 maybe there is a restriction in the block.

Thanks Dan 

Thanks for the info everyone. Yes my radiator cap is good was thinking of trying a higher pressure cap.    If the 68 GT 350 clutch fan will give the same results as I have now the only choice is to try to put an auxiliary electric fan between the condenser and the radiator.  The auxiliary electric fans that will fit in that area are only rated at 1000 CFM not much air flow.  Anyone have a better solution was trying to keep it looking period correct and not have to use an electric fan.

Thanks Dan

On my 69GT350 I'm having cooling problems at idle and low speeds the temperature at a light or in traffic heats up to the point of almost overheating. My car has a/c  and a three row radiator in it.  Does anyone know is a clutch fan set up from a 68 GT350 will work on a 69 Gt350?

   Thank Dan

He did the same thing for a 69/70 proportioning valve said it was NOS brand new in the box. Had rust stains from clamp and plier marks. I caled him on it he has since change his description

Thank you for all your help I'll try it
Dan

Im not sure if my Z bar is bent.   Does anyone know if someone makes a stronger Z bar or a way to reinforce one so it doesn't bend?  I have to almost push the pedal through the floor to get the clutch to engage so I can shift into gear. I used the procedure in the shop manual but my pedal always has to be pushed all the way to the floor to shift.  Is there a way to adjust the lower rod to make it disengage closer to the top of the pedal travel and still have enough free play?  Also I installed a Center force clutch and pressure plate and throw out bearing and cannot get the pedal to come all the way up without assistance. I had to put a heavier spring to the Z bar from the firewall in order to get the pedal to come full up.    Thanks in advance for any help you can give
Dan

Thank you for the information

  I'm no expert so educate me.  How about posting some references,articles,videos etc... so that I may get a better understanding

Dan

It seems what is called a proportioning valve might do both proportioning and act as a residual valve.   Check out this video  yes I know he's talking about mopars but he does Ford brake parts too

https://youtu.be/qzUk8W1-2pw

Found this distribution block and proportioning valve (residual valve) all in one. From NPD  their part number is 2B091-20AA says it fits 1964-1971 FAIRLANE FAIRLANE, TORINO, 70 1/2 FALCON.

Well if your going to be like that. why does the 1969 shop manual call it a proportioning valve?  maybe on the earlier years they used a residual valve but clearly in 1969 they used a proportioning valve. See photo's taken of 1969 shop manual for Cougar and Mustang.