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Messages - Drew Pojedinec

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Appeals / Re: 715 cfm tuning
« on: September 18, 2020, 06:18:28 PM »
By richening idle or raising float, you are really closing the gap in circuits.

Generally speaking, an engine gets leaner as the idle circuit tapers off. A well designed carb sizes the bleeds to run into the mains a little bit.
By having proper bleeds (or raising float level) you bring the boosters online sooner.
By richening idle you just provide a little more fuel at the top end.
Same with using a smaller HSAB or raising float....

Simple machines need simple adjustments.

Appeals / Re: 715 cfm tuning
« on: September 16, 2020, 06:34:03 PM »
Iíve never had one of the 3259 replicas, so I dunno how they are set up.

Iíve never needed to use a 50cc pump on anything that didnít already come with one.
Seems like the issue is you are on the idle circuit, punch it, and have a lean spot before the mains come online.
To close the gap, you can use a slightly smaller high speed bleed, even raising float level.
1/16 of an inch will make the booster flow sooner

I suggested what I did because it is free 😂

Could it be the secondaries flopping open?  Maybe, but generally speaking 715ís are slow to open.
Original 3259 used the short vs diaphragm and an 8.5 PV, but again, that requires more effort. Plus I doubt the boosters are flowing at 30mph.
Last two things that can make a bog are jacked up mechanical advance and a really tight converter.

Anyway, just tossing out ideas

Appeals / Re: 715 cfm tuning
« on: September 16, 2020, 06:00:28 PM »
Raise float level a fuzz, turn mix screws out 1/8 turn.

somebody ever tried these?

Mr Kent, those are just for the secondary throttle shafts.
There are teflon for the primary as well, but honestly, they make too much resistance with the thin gauge old Style return springs.

Mr Royce,
You need the reverse piloted reamer as well for those.

They work well when needed.

More pics


-The baseplate has casting areas for vac nipples, originals did not
-pump cam is the new cream and not as white as original
-throttle shaft is new, you can tell by how lever is attached to shaft
-original shafts were not steel
-plastic protector under spring
-return spring is thicker gauge
-throttle plate screws are phillips instead of flathead
-original throttle plate screws were staked with a single dot
-pump lever is new style and not the large black oxide paddle type.
-yours is drilled for vacuum advance, the originals were not (actually a nice option)

At this moment the only people that sell the whole unit like you have are HP Trends and Carls Ford Parts, so I have no part number as I believe they assemble them in house. They occasionally have them in ebay, Iím sure if a person called them they could come up with one.
If you were to buy all the parts new it would likely cost close to what you are asking, so it is in no way a bad deal, I just wanted to make sure someone knows it isnít NOS for original carbs.

Attached a photo or two of throttle shaft and pump lever.

You probably donít want me to tell you this.
This is not original.  It is a fairly recent reproduction.

Anyway, good luck.

Best to park it and have someone wiggle the wheel with tires on the ground.
Being under it, itíll become obvious, what moves what doesnít.

Rag joint, box, tie rods, etc all can stack up movement.

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Holley 715 CFM #3259 float level adjustment
« on: August 27, 2020, 10:38:53 AM »
Lot of Really bad info here.

There is zero reason you cannot do some basic tuning and have a 1 5/16, 1 3/8 venturi, 1 11/16 bore carb work perfectly on a 289.

Ford had many sizes available both larger and smaller. There is a valid reason to use this size.

Good to hear.
Iíve seen a few sniper builds and heard good things.

Iíve also built a few FItech delete kits.  I have no hands on with any of them, but that one makes me view it with suspicion.

Services Offered / Current Carburetor Inventory
« on: August 24, 2020, 03:18:29 PM »
I'm not taking on any new work at this time.  But I did a carb inventory today.
If there is anything you need me to save or reserve for you, just let me know, I'd be happy to tag it and contact you at a later date.

I do NOT sell cores.  I would restore any of those listed below.  I never have the time nor interest in restoring a carb until someone needs it, so I post lists like this once in awhile.

C1AE-9510-AM List 2328 Date 153 (Reserved)
CC2AE-9510-D List 2143-1 Date 773
CC2AE-9510-D List 2143-1 Date 722 (Partial)
C3AE-9510-A List 2599 Date 4B5
C3AE-9510-A List 2599 Date 485
C3AE-9510-A List 2599 Date 763
C3AE-9510-B List 2668 Date 903
C3AE-9510-C List 2652-1 Date 314
C3AE-9510-C List 2652-1 Date 314
C3AE-9510-C List 2652-1 Date 314
C3AE-9510-C List 2652-1 Date 324
C3AE-9510-C List 2652-1 Date 324
C3AF-9510-BK/BJ  List 2804/2805 333 SET (Reserved)
C3AF-9510-BK/BJ List 4B2 SET
C3AF-9510-BK List 2804 Date 492
C3AF-9510-BK List 2804 Date 604
C3AF-9510-BJ List 2805 Date 704
C4AF-9510-DA List 2919 Date 3A4 with lemans bowls
C4AF-9510-DA List 2919 Date 421 with lemans bowls
C5AF-9510-BE List 3255 Date 581 With lemans bowls
C5AF-9510-BE List 3255 Date 511 center hung
C5AF-9510-BD/BC List 3300/3301 Date 592 SET
C5AF-9510-BD List 3300 Date 923
C5AF-9510-BD List 3300 Date 983
C5AF-9510-BD List 3300 Date 973
C5AF-9510-BC List 3301 Date 834
C5AF-9510-BC List 3301 Date 853
C6AF-9510-BF List 2953 Date 353 With lemans bowls
C6OF-9510-M List 3530 Date 5B2
C6OF-9510-M List 3530 Date 5A2
C6OF-9510-N List 3557 Date 5B1 Partial
C7OF-9510-A List 3793 Date 673
C7OF-9510-A List 3793 Date 605 Partial
C7OF-9510-B List 3794 Date 6B4
SZSK-9510-A List 3926 Date 7B1
C8OF-9510-AC/AD List 4201/4202 Date 931/012
C8OF-9510-C List 3796-1 Date 7A3
C8OF-9510-D List 3796-1 Date 783 Partial
C8OF-9510-AB List 4168 Date 833
C9AF-9510-M List 4279 Date 804
C9AF-9510-M List 4279 Date 921
C9AF-9510-N List 4280 Date 924
C9AF-9510-N List 4280 Date 061
C9AF-9510-N List 4280 Date 8B4
C9OF-9510-H List 4345 Date 8B1
C9OF-9510-H List 4345 Date 8B1
C9AF-9510-U List 4609
C9AF-9510-U List 4609 Partial
D0OF-9510-N List 4627 Date 012
D0ZF-9510-AB List 4514-1 Date 062
DOPF-9510-AN List 4699 Date 023
DOPF-9510-U List 4548 Date 083
S2CS-9510-H List 3948 Date 6B4 With lemans bowls (wrong blocks)
5, List 4118-S
10, 3310's
1, List 1848
1, List 1849
31, 1850-1's for 2x4 usage
1, List 4575 Date 183 with choke
13,List 4224 660 center squirter
2, List 4223 850 center squirter
5, List 4543 850 center squirter
1, List 4578-S 850 Center squirter
1, List 4776 600dp
1, List 4777 650dp
2, List 4778 700dp
2, List 4779 750dp
2, List 4781 850dp


Appeals / Re: need your help with ideas on what could be wrong
« on: August 15, 2020, 11:06:39 PM »
Coils can check good when cold. When the engine gets hot, they won't fire correctly. That's called an intermittent coil. You need to try a new coil to confirm. No other way to do it.

Have had the same issue with coil and other ignition components.
Driving fine and poof. Dead.
Fires fine cold dies hot.

Duraspark magnetic pickup would die this way too. Makes it hard to troubleshoot for sure.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Holley carb issue
« on: August 11, 2020, 05:42:20 PM »
009 is loose and requires care to not roll this why I suggest molykote.
This isnít a certain thing, more of a test and see.

Viton is fine if soft enough, avoid the really hard stuff

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Holley carb issue
« on: August 11, 2020, 05:37:55 AM »
I did it because I couldnít replace the bowl.

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