SAAC Forum

I got a call from the original owner (his son) that I bought my 68 350 from. He is claiming to have found what he believes was the original motor (short block) to my car in their barn. If true its been there since 1971 and is very corroded! Anyhow its in a very difficult location (fell through floorboards) to get at so I cannot see the VIN stamping or castings without a real commitment and half a day. I can see the stamping on the front surface near the water pump which 8C4Y. My car was built 4/23/68. I certainly hope it is the block, but before I commit my time digging it out and I suspect a lot of $$, I want to be sure based on these numbers it seems right. Thoughts?

Sorry to offend my Shelby friends!!! But i would be willing to swap or make a deal.

Other than the speaker hole mine are great! Love to replace them. Let me know what you have. -John

Been hearing very mixed reviews on the quality of tops out there in the Market, requiring a lot of rework to install. Anyone have first hand experience with a confident supplier? thank you!

All was fine... Had the clock converted and now installed my battery dies in 24 hrs. Volt meter shows 14 when running and the battery takes a charge quickly. Could it possibly be drawing so much? If so I assume the clock has problems? Thoughts? Thanks

Went to the Start line yesterday as the drivers left Rhode Island. One guy from CA was there with a real nice GT 500 yellow from CA. Nice Guy! Good luck and go Shelby!!!!

For my 70 MACH 1. The "towers" where the front shock bolt into i need to replace as i have lovely chrome reproduction ones  Is there a proper part number for the factory tower caps? this is just the top piece that accepts the shock bots. Thanks

Attempted a return on a $20.00 item that was missing parts. Guess who had to pay the shipping both ways? $20.00 in shipping. I have nothing and im out $20.00. No more and beware!

Other than my trunk lid, all of my fiberglass needs work. A crack here, chip there. If i consider repairs, stripping and prep for paint, i can't imagine any one panel being a quick cheap fix. I see reproduction fiber glass out there. A. is it as bad as most metal reproduction panels? B. if not and its quality am i better off with repaired originals or perfect reproductions from a value perspective? Thanks for the feedback.

Before i go investigating every nut/bolt is the trunk area and the back end springs/exhaust generally noisy when hitting bumps? i dont see any obvious culprit....

Doing my stainless 68 hubcaps.. Haven't used the rouge in many years. Started with black and sisal wheel then went to green. The very fine scratches remain i cannot get a mirror finish. I wonder if the rouge lost moisture??? that a possibility? 

I thought I would provide details on the removal and installation of the stainless surround and the bottom frame when replacing your door glass. This would have been a big help to me so here you go! If you are going to polish the stainless leave it in the old window as the glass will provide the needed rigidity.

Removal
1.   Heat the stainless and frame with a heat gun get it good and hot and let it sit for about 10 mins to soften the glass setting tape
2.   Remove the two small Phillips screws CAREFULLY from the vertical run. You do not want to strip them
3.   Get a hardwood 1x1 block and begin tapping the stainless away from the glass. Do this universally around the glass. You do no want edge to lift faster or higher than the other as you can separate the corner joint. Also tap the vertical lower edge of the stainless to lift it up and off not just horizontally.
4.   Heat some more if not moving and be patient with the stainless removal process. Once off go to the lower frame. Same process but you can be more aggressive.

Installation
Order your glass setting tape. I used 1/16 x 1.5" tape. Worked perfect.
1.   Make sure the glass edges are clean.
2.   Start with stainless edge first
3.   Cut you tape to length. Fold in half.
4.   Snuggly fit tape (which is not sticky) over the glass edge. Hold in place with black electrical tape pieces. I used 3 one in the middle and another at each end. The tape is used perpendicular to the window setting tape not parallel.
5.   Carefully cut the corner so the tape lays flat nice 90 degree +/-. No bumps allowed.
6.   Wipe the window setting tape with kerosene or lamp oil to activate it and makes it lubricated
7.   Using a rubber mallet tape the stainless on. Start with the vertical side and get the corner secured first. I also used long wood clamps to slowly press the horizonal run in place.
8.   Ensure the stainless is firmly against the glass and then trim excess (both tapes) with a razor.
9.   Now prepare the horizontal lower frame for installation
10.   The left side of the frame will slide up the stainless channel. Therefore, I sanded the left leading edge to remove rust or any debris and lubricated it with the kerosene.
11.   Cut your setting tape length and fold in half as described above. Again firmly drape over the glass and hold in pace with black electrical tape. 3 vertical pieces as above.
12.   Now begin to slide the frame up the stainless channel and look to align the frame with the screw holes.
13.   As you get close to alignment wipe the setting tape with kerosene.
14.   Put a punch through the stainless screw holes and into the frame screw holes.
15.   Tape frame onto glass and set firmly. Check the punch it should be perfectly aligned to accept the screws. If not you have more tapping to do.
16.   Install screws and using your mallet tap all edges until you are certain the frame and stainless have bottomed out on the glass.
17.   Using razor blade remove the electrical tape strips. You won't have any setting tape excess for the frame as the 1.5" fits perfectly.
18.    Done   

About to put my 4 speed back in... I've become aware of the need to align to the bellhousing/tranny to the crank. Is this really necessary? i cant believe they did that level of precision at the factory.. thoughts?

i removed the bolts to the cover and two of them are much longer than the others. Is there a specific spot for them? perhaps at one end?

Kinda looks like I can leave the exhaust alone and slide back then forward.. anyone confirm? Thanks

Anyone have a tried and true sanding/polishing process or a kit you bought that you liked? Nothing deep but needs repair. Lots of the web content but no good DIY solutions such as pad types etc. Thanks!!

For my 68 door,.. is the brightwork around the edges stainless? What is best way to remove the old and then "glue" a replacement glass into the base?  Heat? Thanks

need a few for my door pullstrap ends. Not sure how they are sized, what to ask for. Thoughts? thanks

I thought I would share 3 stories about experiences I have had in the classic car society where paying it forward or at least being generous has come back to me in two of them. I think!
Just a quick background which will help a bit. I am a Pontiac guy. Born and raised and have always loved the style, quality and performance. I am also middle income and have not had an opportunity to splurge on my car addiction until now in my 50's. I raised three sons and focused on them in my 30's-40's at the expense of career advancement as I was brought up dirt poor but family rich and that was all that matters. My recent wife however has opened my eyes to Mustangs.....So on with the stories:

1.   While building up and collecting parts for my 1968 Firebird with a 428, I became really interested in obtaining a pair of long branch manifolds that were extremely rare for the car. Like a factory header. This was in the 90's where two things were happening, first on line car forums were becoming popular such as this one, and someone was trying to reproduce these manifolds. This was of interest to me as I knew id never find a real pair and at that time if I did id probably pay $1500+ for them. So after a series of postings about the quality of the reproductions back and forth some one posted a simple "I might have what you need email me". So I did. After having him confirm the correct part numbers and the condition, I asked what he wanted for them. A few days later I got response that said “I bought them at a tag sale in 1972 and paid $75.00 for them. Let's go with that plus shipping". Although tempting I advised him of the value and said I could not pay $75.00. He said he was aware but wanted to "help me with my project". I received them finally in the mail, they appeared to be NOS and have been using them since.
Now whenever I see a young person 20's-30's with a classic car for which I might have parts to help them I offer/give them to them for free. It's the right thing to do and it will keep the hobby alive. Speaking of keeping it alive here is the next story....

2.   At one time I was really into 36-38 chevy coupes. Mostly original only safety improvements. And so the on-line site I belonged to was heavily run and the participation from more seniors. Definitely 70's+ based on their stories. Over a period of a few weeks there became passionate dialog about how the "young" folks in the hobby just want to modify their cars and do not appreciate originality. I offered an unpopular point of view which was since the parts for the cars are very hard to find, a small group has horded them, and that same group thinks the parts will cover their pension gaps since they charge as much as gold for them, these same folks are the cause of the direction the young folks have gone in as they can't afford to go in the original direction with the cars.  It has become a self-fulfilling prophecy in the that era of cars. Anyway, not what they wanted to hear and I decided to sell mine and move on to other car cultures. They should have nurtured the young members not drain them of their savings.

3.   A few years back in a very small gas station near my home I saw a 68 Shelby 350 4 speed convertible in for service like it was a Ford explorer. In line outside waiting for parts. I inquired about it in disbelief, not being a Mustang guy, I at least knew it was special but that was about it. One thing led to another and I ended up speaking to the man, original owner (85), about how he needed to secure the car and care for it as it was special and he clearly needed guidance. We spoke for along time and he appreciated my concern. He also asked if I wanted to buy it. Having an idea of the value of these cars I declined to offer as I could never afford it. He pressured me to make an offer when he realized I loved cars, stating he is sick of car collectors hounding him. I told him I would have to look at it more closely. So back to gas station I went, and he asked that I get back to him. After looking at and being pressured I made an offer that I could afford. There was dead silence on the phone and an "ohhhh" response. I reaffirmed that's the best I could do. His wife got on the phone, and after some dialog they agreed to my price but wanted first to see where it would be stored. They came to my home and after seeing my heated barn they felt comfortable and we made a deal. In between when we spoke and when we did the transaction, I researched the car thanks to help from Peter D, and with the help of this site came to understand the value. I told them what the care was worth and encourage their children to be involved as I feared elder abuse although not intentional. He seemed to be suffering from some mental challenges. The wife did not and was sharp as a tack. Finally, their lawyer was brought into the discussion and they all agreed still to the price realizing the steep discount. In the end they wanted their family heirloom to be taken care of which I have been doing ever sense. I cared about the man and his car first and that came back to me. I really enjoy the Shelby culture.

In the end I feel strongly about giving in the hobby. Many of you have given your time and knowledge to me and for that I thank you, and so does the old couple who originally bought the Shelby. -John

thanks Bob. it also makes it easier/mor efun to drive when everything is NOT perfect!