SAAC Forum

Quote from: BGlover67 on December 02, 2018, 03:11:52 PM

Quote from: Coralsnake on December 02, 2018, 08:19:31 AM
I appreciate the support, but dont take my word for it.

The over counter catalog pictures, Shelby parts listing, Shelby blueprints,  multiple photos of actual knobs in their original boxes and valuations from previous auctions should be convincing.

That along with the words of some the most influentual people in the hobby, concours judges, Shelby club representatives, forum members and the actual guy that made the knobs, each with over 35 years of experience , should be convincing.

But, I guess all that gets equal weight with some person on the other side of the country that also has an incorrect knob in an original box and someone who has a vague recollection of stealing a knob off a car months or years after the car was built. "What are the odds?"



Reason and logic have left the building.

m
Pete,

I just mentioned the story about the knob being stolen off a showroom car not to support this idiots delusions and justifications for his  aberrant price, but instead to show how easily people get confused about an items origins.  Please dont think it was to support his attempt to fleece someone on eBay.
At this point, I'm shocked he hasn't just pulled the ad, but obviously he really doesn't care.  Oh well.

I don't thinks anyone here will misinterpret you offering.  Were you aware he added it to the ramblings in his eBay ad??

Wouldn't the ethical response be to remove the ad or a least adjust the description/price?

Nicely restored 

Any chance you can get a better angle on the lower corner?

My picture below of original before chrome show clear edges.

Might just be the lighting that hides the top edge in you picture.

Thanks for sharing.


Chris

Quote from: 2112 on November 26, 2018, 11:31:00 PM

Quote from: Chris Thauberger on November 26, 2018, 11:00:35 PM

Quote from: 2112 on November 26, 2018, 10:15:09 PM
Restomod is another word that varies greatly in definition.

I don know, either your car is restored or it's a restomod.

We used to just say it was custom.

Chris

It has only been a recent phenomenon that a restored car had to be stock right down to the horrible tires used at the time of production.

I bring that up as it seems it is being suggested that anything less than that (bias-ply tires) means the car is a Restomod.

... more like it is being suggested it is NOT restored by the literal definition of the word(restored).

It appears attaching the word "restored" to ones work is nothing more than an attempt to elevate its status, hence the annoyance of it use in advertising.
I don't view the word restored as having an open definition.

Restomod on the other hand is a troubling descriptor. It is a portmanteau of what I can only assume is restored and modified. (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)
I'm not sure which snake oil salesman from BJ coined the word but it is by definition an oxymoron.


I still prefer the words custom or personalized, but that's just me.

JMHO

Chris

Quote from: 2112 on November 26, 2018, 10:15:09 PM
Restomod is another word that varies greatly in definition.

I don know, either your car is restored or it's a restomod.

We used to just say it was custom.

Chris

Quote from: SNAKEBIT on November 26, 2018, 09:11:53 PM
Eight Barrel, I think we have a much different idea of what restored it. Restored to what, is the question that comes to mind when I see or hear that word out of someone's mouth. I reserve the word "idiot" for people say restored, which does imply that it is restored back to, what else?, FACTORY, not restored back to when it was 10 years old and had a few mods done by some past owner. It means and it implies, restoration to what it originally was. I give you Miriam-Webster . . . "3 : to bring back to or put back into a former or original state : renew".

+1

This is why it's an annoying word sellers use. Even on this site some have differing definitions 

Chris

Quote from: Mike James on November 24, 2018, 10:07:09 AM
Correct.  Find me my tranny for 0786!
Hard to believe someone would take it out and install an automatic!

Tell me about it 

Same thing happened to my car back in the day

Chris

Quote from: Kent on November 16, 2018, 05:36:38 PM
Thank you all for the nice answers, that help me a lot. And you cant buy that paint anymore in the usa? Here I can buy enamel polyurethan paint with hardener and reducer and mix it so that would be good? Or was it not a pu enamel paint what Ford used was it acrylic enamel?

Polyurethane enamel was mainly used for fleet, trucks and buses. Ford used acrylic enamel on Mustangs.

Chris

Alkyd enamel paint is one component with reducer and takes forever to setup(air dry) or become what is referred to a 'tack free'.  That is why assembly line used "bake ovens".
I started painting just as acrylic enamel paint was appearing so I only sprayed with enamel for a few years.

No plural component paint from the factory in the sixties.

Chris

The connector is for a rear defogger.

Chris

Quote from: Bossbill on November 06, 2018, 08:14:14 PM
Depends on where you live (lowest temp and amount you are raising lowest temp), amount of insulation you have and square feet, along with ceiling height.
Also, what fuel is available and how much is electricity in your area? Do also need a/c?
All factor into required btus and type of unit.

You're getting all sorts of answers because everyone has differing answers to the questions above.
Do a btu calc first.

^^^   This is the only real advice in this thread.


Insulation is measured by its R-value. The R-value lets you calculate how much heat will move through a certain wall area depending on the temperature difference between the indoor and the outdoor air.

So let's say you have a wall that contains R-10 insulation in the United States. Let's say the wall measures 8 feet high by 10 feet long, or 80 square feet. Let's say it is 70 degrees F indoors and 30 degrees F outdoors, or a 40 degree F temperature difference. The calculation looks like this:

80 square feet * 40 degree F difference / 10 = 320 BTUs

In other words, you would need a heater producing 320 BTUs to compensate for the heat loss through that wall, and that heater would be running continuously.

If you are not in the United States, you do the same kind of calculation but you do it in SI units, using degrees C, meters, square meters and SI R-values. What you get out is watts. So if you have a wall that is 2.4 meters high and 3 meters wide (7.2 square meters), and the outside temperature is -1 degrees C while the inside temperature is 21 degrees C (22 degrees C temperature difference), and the insulation is SI R-1.8, you get:

7.2 square meters * 22 degrees C difference / 1.8 = 88 watts

If you multiply watts by 3.4 you get approximate BTUs and vice-versa.

So now let's look at a house. Let's imagine an idealized 2,500 square foot single-story house. It is a square that has 4 walls that are each 50 feet long and 8 feet high. The ceiling and floor are 50 x 50 foot squares. The ceiling has R-30 insulation. The floor has R-15. The walls have R-10. It is 70 degrees F inside and 30 degrees outside. How much heat is escaping through the insulation?

Each wall is 50 x 8 = 400 square feet for a total of 1,600 square feet. With a 40 degree F temperature difference and R-10 insulation you get:

1,600 * 40 / 10 = 6,400 BTUs

The ceiling has 2,500 square feet at R-30, so:

2,500 * 40 / 30 = 3,330 BTUs

The floor has 2,500 square feet at R-15, so:

2,500 * 40 / 15 = 6,660 BTUs

So the whole house needs about 16,400 BTUs (or 4,820 watts) to maintain its temperature.

No real house is ideal like this, however. A real house has windows that might be at R-2. And doors that might be R-4. And there are little leaks that allow cold air infiltration, plus less insulation around outlets, etc. All in all, a real 2,500 square foot house might need 20,000 to 25,000 BTUs (depending on how many windows/doors and how "tight" it is) to maintain its temperature.



Chris

Quote from: shelbydoug on October 28, 2018, 08:27:44 AM

I use them also but need to add, they are not 100% reliable. They have a very limited range. They are constantly dropping out of communication with the central unit.

Seemingly everything interferes with the reception. Birds are constantly perching on them, the wind moves them, squirrels chew on them.

If you choose to correct that with your AR14/15, try not to hit the camera. Use a stand and a scope for accuracy and a short load? 

I all depend on what you are looking for. I you want a more reliable camera that eliminates swaying objects and small objects(birds,cats) then you need a better camera. A cheap camera is going to offer limited or no analytics.


This is truly a case of you get what you pay for

Chris

Here you go.

Chris

My GT500 doesn't corner as well as your car, fortunately I live in the prairies and the roads are loooong and flat.

So far I have only had it up to 85. Have 265 miles on it now and winter is coming. Trying to hit 350(random number ) before the snow.

Wish me luck!