SAAC Forum

I approach it the same way as an alarm system with both inner and perimeter measures. Never place traps with food in the vehicle.

It was good advice given above as you should attempt to seal any large openings but they will find their way in. They are actually blind and operate by scent generally running along walls or to other objects. They don’t cross the middle of rooms. If you set new traps set the traps along the walls or right underneath a tire.

I employ both peppermint oil as well as dryer sheets in the vehicle. Outside the vehicles underneath the tire I have a have a heart trap with peanut butter.

The other post was correct in that they have all settled in for the winter already. As soon as the weather got cold I must’ve caught five or six over a five week period. And now my traps have been quiet for several weeks as they are nestled in for the winter. Hopefully not in your car. 😁

Anybody have any history on 8T02R203155

You mean other then what’s in the Registry?

On his way back already.

I may need someone to look at a 68 in Denver.

Anyone near there and willing to do a pre-purchase inspection?

A lot of information.

So the consensus is all 68s should have VIN stamp even if assembled in late 67? I was told it started in calendar year 68. This car was bucked 11/29/67.

The casting numbers and dates on block and heads are consistent with vehicle assembly. I saw no VIN but given what has been said here I really need to closely examine entire motor.

The trans is not original.

It's on the head not the block. Best you can do for the block is confirm a date code

The casting number is behind a freeze out plug?

Where is the block’s date code?

I am looking at a GT500 and trying to identify the powertrain.

According to the former registry the last four digits of the Ford VIN are stamped on the block and trans.

Where?

Does anyone have a photo depicting the locations of the vin?

Quote from: J_Speegle on January 12, 2020, 04:23:38 PM

There is a home for every car if a potential buyer and seller can reach an agreement.

Agreed, not every potential owner wants a concours show car.

Interesting thread. So let me throw this out to the group. I’m looking for a 68 and the only absolute is a 4spd car. Would love a lime poly car with hubcaps but would consider all. Price is important; Im a bottom feeder.  Looking for a driver quality car with unrestored chassis. A 3+ or - in need of TLC that runs, with or without original motor.

What should I expect to pay? Looking for fair price range.