SAAC Forum

Quote from: Vernon Estes on January 24, 2021, 03:04:56 PM

Quote from: 427hunter on January 24, 2021, 02:50:26 PM
Interesting how far off the vin is centered from cut out and how the star is not open with clean star in center. Does anyone have a photo of off center vins on other 65 gt350's? Also is that a silk screen tag? I can't tell if the letters are raised.

Not terribly uncommon to see. This one is more off center than usual though.

The pass side stampings are the most "off" on early 65s generally- being fully exposed and not under the fender as usual.

Kind regards,
Vern

I so far have not been able to find a good 65 off set like this, also the star stamp does not look right (maybe it's paint) but it looks off, also the tag (maybe it's just the photo) but it looks flat not raised. It's interesting that these vin issues appear on a car that Howard says was modified for a big block.....

Interesting how far off the vin is from the cut out and how the star is not open with clean star in center. Does anyone have a photo of off center vins on other 65 gt350's? Also is that a silk screen tag? I can't tell if the letters are raised.

Quote from: 2112 on January 16, 2021, 11:56:30 PM

Quote from: 427hunter on January 16, 2021, 11:38:30 PM

Quote from: 2112 on January 12, 2021, 05:04:26 PM
If you wired the funds (or deducted from checking/savings) 

If it is on a credit card, Now is the time to enlist their help. They aren't as crappy as PayPal.

I would now see if your local police can light a fire under his local police.

+1

Lets hope you did a credit card transaction and did not use a bank account. Whenever I use pay pal I always use a credit card and eat the 4% transaction fee for the credit card protection.

I thought it was 3%, but I agree, that 4% sounds cheap right now.

Either way it's worth the cost!

Give us the address and info of the seller, I bet people on this forum live in whatever area needs to be checked.

Quote from: 2112 on January 12, 2021, 05:04:26 PM
If you wired the funds (or deducted from checking/savings) 

If it is on a credit card, Now is the time to enlist their help. They aren't as crappy as PayPal.

I would now see if your local police can light a fire under his local police.

+1

Lets hope you did a credit card transaction and did not use a bank account. Whenever I use pay pal I always use a credit card and eat the 4% transaction fee for the credit card protection.

Quote from: camp upshur on January 14, 2021, 02:47:37 PM
There is an age old argument of engine v sheetmetal. Usually those with one attempt to denigrate the other. Basic human nature.

At its essence each each car is an assemblage of casting and stampings. Some from Ford, some from Shelby, and some from Ford and specifically reworked by hands-on Shelby American personnel to enhance their characteristics. The total of these efforts by SAI are somewhat believed to be what differentiated a 65 GT-350 from a 65 271hp Ford Mustang 2+2.
There is a significant difference in price between a stock Mustang piece (or entire vehicle) and a piece which can be demonstrably demonstrated to have come on a Mustang from Ford and to have been reworked/enhanced at Shelby American. Elaborate efforts at replication and reproduction have been taken over the years -with good reason- to reinstate the appearance of originality and/or try to capture the 'mystique' associated with the hand done modifications done at Shelby American.
This thread pertains to 1965 GT-350s. My car had absolutely zero modifications done to its sheet metal by Shelby American. They are generic (albeit date coded) Ford parts (offhand there were three additions to its external appearance: grille trim center, rear GT -350 plaque and the addition of a hood). Paint was applied as well. The sheet metal itself was virtually untouched or enhanced by SAI.
When I drive my car w its unique engine I'm driving a specific engine know only to my car as prepared by Shelby American.  It's a central part of the ownership experience.  It is the cars personality. The SAI prepared 306 hp engine not found in any Ford parts manual nor some forlorn Mustang donor car.

I encourage all owners -now whilst there is still time- to learn exactly when/where their car was manufactured by FoMoCo and locate/purchase a donor Mustang. I recently assisted a 65 owner who purchased a third week April Milpitas Mustang off of Craigslist for 3k complete (but rough).  Talk about sheet metal. Exact date coded spare doors, fenders, glass, hinges, suspension components, etc and perhaps most importantly: fasteners.
For a GT-350 worth 2 to 4 (large) it's worth the storage space.

You completely contradict yourself talking about the easy in which you can get Sheetmetal yet somehow believe a 289 + cam, intake, carb, and headers can't be obtained?

The unibody is the car like it or not and the whole point of my post was to inform a potential buyer to beware the numbers matching air car, which are out there fully restored.

You also like to crap on the registry, but the info they have is more accurate then not and for a buyer it's priceless to know what skeletons are in the closet.

You claim to have a perfect all original untouched 1965 gt350, what number is it? / or is your beef with the registry over your car?

Quote from: camp upshur on January 14, 2021, 02:47:37 PM
There is an age old argument of engine v sheetmetal. Usually those with one attempt to denigrate the other. Basic human nature.

At its essence each each car is an assemblage of casting and stampings. Some from Ford, some from Shelby, and some from Ford and specifically reworked by hands-on Shelby American personnel to enhance their characteristics. The total of these efforts by SAI are somewhat believed to be what differentiated a 65 GT-350 from a 65 271hp Ford Mustang 2+2.
There is a significant difference in price between a stock Mustang piece (or entire vehicle) and a piece which can be demonstrably demonstrated to have come on a Mustang from Ford and to have been reworked/enhanced at Shelby American. Elaborate efforts at replication and reproduction have been taken over the years -with good reason- to reinstate the appearance of originality and/or try to capture the 'mystique' associated with the hand done modifications done at Shelby American.
This thread pertains to 1965 GT-350s. My car had absolutely zero modifications done to its sheet metal by Shelby American. They are generic (albeit date coded) Ford parts (offhand there were three additions to its external appearance: grille trim center, rear GT -350 plaque and the addition of a hood). Paint was applied as well. The sheet metal itself was virtually untouched or enhanced by SAI.
When I drive my car w its unique engine I'm driving a specific engine know only to my car as prepared by Shelby American.  It's a central part of the ownership experience.  It is the cars personality. The SAI prepared 306 hp engine not found in any Ford parts manual nor some forlorn Mustang donor car.

I encourage all owners -now whilst there is still time- to learn exactly when/where their car was manufactured by FoMoCo and locate/purchase a donor Mustang. I recently assisted a 65 owner who purchased a third week April Milpitas Mustang off of Craigslist for 3k complete (but rough).  Talk about sheet metal. Exact date coded spare doors, fenders, glass, hinges, suspension components, etc and perhaps most importantly: fasteners.
For a GT-350 worth 2 to 4 (large) it's worth the storage space.

So what number car do you own?

Quote from: camp upshur on January 14, 2021, 10:51:21 AM

no stories?
be very wary of terms like 'prototype' or 'one of xx'.
oft times these are terms to pull a neophyte's eye off of the ball.
if a Shelby doesn't have a -say a Shelby engine- how 'Shelby' is it? might want to check closely on this car.
it IS a prototype of a 65 Shelby with many non 65 Shelby items. some, like the aforementioned items in the cited thread, are basic ersatz replacement parts, others, like say the shifter, are simply incorrect - where lookalike facsimiles could have been substituted and perhaps passed off as 'original' ... or better yet 'prototype'.
there is also no record of this car being equipped the Crager wheels, or 15x6 steels for that matter, so check the safety bead on those rims to see if they are repros.
also be very wary of the 'Registry', for those of us who were here prior to the 'Registry' and contributed to the first edition, know that it is simply a compendium of  casually solicited pap. subsequently republished ad nauseum to give an illusion of veracity. 3x5 index cards passed out a COCOA meeting in my case. there was no verification or fact checking. subsequent unattributed 'editing' has been farcical.
Aspenburghound, somebody may well drop serious coin on this car. if it is you, you may be well advised to know, or hire one who knows, Mustangs and specifically 1965 GT-350s in all of their nuance, prior to being relieved of you money. many still yearn for a 'no stories' 65 and encounter crafted salesmanship. good luck.

"Shelby engine" no it's a Ford 289, service parts come and go with a car over time - only the unibody in the end really is the car. As far as "numbers matching engines", a stamp set + a regular 289 block and any non numbers car magically becomes numbers matching...Beware falling into the parts trap, IMO what matters is the unibody being all original. I don't care if every "number matches", if the body is not the one that left SJ then you don't have the car.   

853 in its natural habitat...

853 has a 66 housing and dog leg (kinked) over-rides.

Quote from: greekz on December 30, 2020, 12:35:30 AM

Quote from: greekz on December 28, 2020, 11:12:46 AM
Had no problems either.  Not taking any extra precautions.  Will get a picture tomorrow.

Sorry, could not get a picture.

Greek

NP, thanks anyway..

Thanks for all the ideas! I will try the tape idea, I always know when the weights are gone because I get a front end wobble at around 50mph.

Hi all,

so the calipers knocked off the stick on weights again, this is the second time using the thinnest weights. Has anyone had success with wheel weights on 10 spoke Shelby wheels, if so can you post a photo of the weights you used..

Thanks

How it's titled all depends on the State, I have seen several different abbreviations of Shelby, but gt350, gt500, or Ford are all common as well.

They are all fiberglass so as stated above you can reinforce it, can you post a photo of the underside of your hood?


The underside should look like the image of the frame shown here:

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/1/7/6/3176630/69_70_hoods_v1.0.pdf

I have the original hood on mine and it has almost no bow in it at all, I wonder if repops are thinner fiberglass?