SAAC Forum

Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 10, 2021, 03:54:46 PM

Quote from: sg66 on July 10, 2021, 01:09:21 PM
Nails? Also, why type of windage tray are you using that needs a gasket? The B302 style I've used bolt to the main caps only and have no gasket.

Whenever I've done rear mains, I always offset the ends so they butt up against each other about 1/2" inside the cap/block. That way there is no possibility for oil to seep out through a seam which is flush with the block.

Another thing I've seen many people miss is that the 2 larger oil pan bolts in the rear do not go into a blind hole, meaning the threads in the block go all the way through to the crankcase and if not sealed can be another source for oil drips.

In this category  the OP could be referring to a big block. Although 68 GT500 or KRs did not use a CJ windage tray from the factory 69/70 GT500's did. It is not uncommon for owners to add the BB CJ windage trays to  their engines even though they did not come with them from the factory .Those windage trays use two oil pan gaskets to sandwich it between the oilpan and the block.

Ahh my bad, small block on the brain today

Nails? Also, why type of windage tray are you using that needs a gasket? The B302 style I've used bolt to the main caps only and have no gasket.

Whenever I've done rear mains, I always offset the ends so they butt up against each other about 1/2" inside the cap/block. That way there is no possibility for oil to seep out through a seam which is flush with the block.

Another thing I've seen many people miss is that the 2 larger oil pan bolts in the rear do not go into a blind hole, meaning the threads in the block go all the way through to the crankcase and if not sealed can be another source for oil drips.

Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on June 25, 2021, 04:52:48 PM
I was informed that the main and rod bearings were very worn on one side as if the crank was not true so rebuilding is definitely a good thing. 

I'm guessing your rod bearings wore out on the top side? If so, that's what I would expect mainly due to combustion and compression strokes having more pressure on that side and with anti-freeze in the oil, the wear would be accelerated. My other guess is the bottom of the mains are worn? Same idea just switch where the most pressure is applied. Sounds like you caught it in time which is always a good thing.

Quote from: SCJSTU on June 23, 2021, 11:58:53 AM

Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on June 23, 2021, 11:21:44 AM
Looks like if the guy has an air tag app he can find yours. All he needs to do is add his and tag your car as his as it moves away he'll be alerted yours is tracking him.

AirTag is designed to discourage unwanted tracking. If someone else's AirTag finds its way into your stuff, your iPhone will notice it's traveling with you and send you an alert. After a while, if you still haven't found it, the AirTag will start playing a sound to let you know it's there.

There is no Air Tag app....Its Find My Friends app on an Iphone....the Air Tag is paired only to owners phone not seen by others.....same process for locating a family member is same app....no one else sees your family members location

Sort of but if you leave something far away, the Apple Big Brother spy network can find it, ping the location to iCloud and notify you where it is on a map.

If someone stole your car and had an iPhone, they would also be alerted there is an Airtag if they are part of the network

~~~~~~~~~~~~~,
https://www.apple.com/airtag/

"When youʼve left something far behind, like at the beach or the gym, the Find My network — hundreds of millions of iPhone, iPad, and Mac devices around the world — helps track down your AirTag. And itʼs designed to protect your privacy every step of the way.

Your AirTag sends out a secure Bluetooth signal that can be detected by nearby devices in the Find My network. These devices send the location of your AirTag to iCloud — then you can go to the Find My app and see it on a map. The whole process is anonymous and encrypted to protect your privacy. And itʼs efficient, so thereʼs no need to worry about battery life or data usage."

Quote from: avogodro on June 21, 2021, 10:22:13 PM
Are all modern gaskets made to be right/left independent? We have another set that has a raised crush ring around them but the ring is block side down on the right and head side up on the left see the attached photo.

You need to have the water jacket openings as you have them. Flipping a gasket to make the crush rings the same on both sides is almost 100% guaranteed engine failure. The ring itself doesn't really care if it's up or down once everything is torqued down.

Quote from: oldcanuck on June 18, 2021, 07:49:58 AM
All great information guys.... thank you.

One more question..... Does the clutch itself incur any extra wear if the pedal is not returning that last little bit ?

The throw out bearing is more likely to wear depending on how much "not returning" is happening

Quote from: 67 GT350 on June 17, 2021, 07:39:29 PM
Just asking but, ScottyD stuff is not of good quality usually. What is that made of? I only ask because I am afraid that for all the work, it should be very hard steel. If it is China made it actually might fail. This is a "Just sayin" / "Just asking" We all know that the metal from China is really useless including stainless.

I'm always skeptical of Drake stuff too but did use these. The bearings from what I can tell are put together well. The only issue I recall was the groove for the c-clip sat maybe .001 - .002 too low when the bearing was installed in the support. Nothing that 5 minutes with a file on the support couldn't solve. It's also not a bad idea to throw the plastic bushings for the Z-bar in the trash and use bronze instead

Quote from: Dkutz on June 12, 2021, 11:09:04 PM
There was a thread on the vintage mustang forum on this car.  Very interesting story.  When posted originally the owner did not know what he had and wanted to resto mod it.

I believe this is the thread you're referring to, if so, it's a different car. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/k-code-from-italy.661805/

Classic symptoms of a blown head gasket. Pull the radiator cap, start the car and let it idle. Once warmed up and the coolant is flowing, if you see bubbles coming out, it's a high probability that you have a blown head gasket or although less likely, a cracked head or block. If you do see bubbles at idle, I would do a compression check on each cylinder to see if one is obviously out of range of the others and go from there.

This is on the bottom of the NPD "improved tooling" 16054-1A

I would take a stab at going to a fabric store like this with your speaker and see if they can match the OEM material. Whatever you end up with, I would make sure it has some type of UV protection either baked in or applied afterwards. https://www.joann.com/fabric/?prefn1=refinementColors&prefv1=Blacks&icn=fabric-sc&ici=color-black

I've also been using DOT 5 for 25+ years and had White Post rebuild mine 5 years ago. Last spring when I took it out of storage, there was a puddle of brake fluid on the floor of the garage. Turned out to be from a leak past the rear o-ring.

More details: http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=10452.msg89915#msg89915

This year, everything is still dry so maybe my fix with known EPDM and slightly thicker o-rings worked. Looking back now, part of the testing I did last year did show some minor swelling of Nitrile o-rings in DOT 3 when I tested against DOT 5. Conventional wisdom has been that swelling is bad however for leaks past the rear o-ring, I would argue that swelling is good. I had also found signs of moisture in my valve when I opened it and now wonder if freezing temperatures caused that to expand just enough to push past the o-ring.

If it ever leaks again, I'll consider switching over to Castrol SRF which claims:

"It is miscible with all conventional fluids meeting the US Federal Standards FMVSS 116 DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, ISO 4925 and current SAE J1703. This means that changing the brake system to Castrol SRF is easy. Drain and flush out the conventional brake fluid with Castrol SRF then top up the system with Castrol React SRF Racing. Although Castrol React SRF Racing is miscible with conventional brake fluids, topping up Castrol React SRF Racing with conventional brake fluids will reduce the benefits of the product."

https://www.moreheadspeedworks.com/product/castrol-srf-1l/

Keep in mind that you can not drain and flush K/H calipers unless you remove them, turn them upside down and let the old fluid drain out. The bleeder only purges air and fluid at the top of the caliper.

I have 3 in perfect condition. $100 each + shipping. Will sell individually and guarantee them. Will call you tonight

1. Did you drain the anti-freeze by opening the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator or did you remove the plugs in the block? If you only drained the radiator then yes, around 1/2 the coolant capacity is still in the block.

2. If it is a head gasket, it could be very obvious or you may need to look closer. The key here is identify all the oil and anti-freeze holes and look closely for signs of anti-freeze traveling into an oil hole. Speaking from experience, I had the top ring sealing a cylinder fail which pressurized the cooling system which then pushed antifreeze into the oil. This happened a long time ago and I forget if the oil/antifreeze seals were directly compromised by the cylinder ring that but they probably were.

3. One oddball thing to consider because you said this started when you replaced intake bolts, I remember years ago being told that either Felpro or Ford Motorsport recommended increasing head bolt torque by 10 ft/lbs because they had found that when torquing down the intake, it could pull up the head just enough to cause a head gasket leak when combined with all the normal valve train activity. Fatigued head bolts could come into play also so when you do pull the heads and if you discover it's a gasket, it's a good idea to get new bolts and chase the threads to ensure you are getting a correct torque number when you put things back together. One other thing while the heads are off is to check for flatness.

Edit:

One other thing I'll throw out there is that considering the motor has been pumping the oil/antifreeze combo and it would be very wise to drop the pan and check the bearings anyway, you may want to drop the pan before removing your heads and draining the antifreeze from the block to see if you can
get some clues about the source of the antifreeze.

Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 07:52:14 PM
I used the Fel Pro from NPD. If you have any suggestions for better gaskets I would love to hear them.
Corey

Felpro lists 2 intake gaskets for a (assuming 68) 302. 90103 without the "L" and excludes Hi-Perf and the 90116 with the "L" for Hi-Perf and Special. Other than the "L" I don't know what makes them different but may be a good idea to call Felpro and ask them.

Also I saw in an earlier post you were using the copper spray gasket. Mr Gasket says that's not recommended for long term sealing. Also note their recommendations for the when you use what for end seals. https://www.holley.com/products/gaskets/intake_gaskets/

One last thing to keep in mind, once you get antifreeze circulating through your motor, you run the risk of it destroying your bearings because the antifreeze decides to live there. At a minimum, I would keep a close eye on your oil pressure and any noticeable drop from normal I would inspect and replace if necessary rod and mains.

Also goes without saying that replacing and inspecting the oil more frequently is a good idea for the near future