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Messages - sg66

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76
The Lounge / Re: What to do with modified intake?
« on: August 20, 2019, 09:11:50 PM »
I picked this up back in the 80’s and still run it today. I can’t comment on what you give up for low end torque because at the time I also built the motor with the larger Motorsport cam .512 I / .536 E  bigger valves 1.94” / 1.60” replaced a 715 with a 650 double pumper and some other things.  A few years later I switched to a 5 speed so losing any low end torque didn’t mean much as I can easily light up the tires in 1st if I’m already driving 10 MPH and floor it. The motor runs great at 7k when I decide to go there. Also running a 3:89 locker FWIW

77
Wanted to Buy / Re: WTB 289 HiPo counter weight
« on: August 20, 2019, 07:52:16 PM »
Not trying to hijack this thread but just curious.  I know original parts are usually better and more desirable, but for an application like this where the part is internal, is there any functional downside to using a repro part?
I know someone who used a repo years ago and claimed it was lighter than the original. I seem to recall he said 3 ounces. He was building the motor from scratch and had it balanced anyway.

78
Parts For Sale / Re: 1965 GT350 Axles
« on: August 18, 2019, 03:09:39 PM »
They look legit HiPo.  Any markings on the outside ends, on the extension that passes through drum?

Cory
Just for reference, a C4 number

79
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: T-5 Conversion from Aluminum T-10
« on: August 11, 2019, 01:57:25 PM »
Like any other car, 1,800 to 2,000. You can run these things on regular and they won't ping.

So, to confirm: the RPMs need to be kept above 1,800, is that correct?

I did this conversion 30 years ago right before driving 600 miles round trip to SAAC 14 at Pocono. Hipo’s don’t create a ton of low RPM torque and I’ve found over the years that anything under 55-60MPH (right around 1800 RPM)and you’re better off staying in 4th or even 3rd depending on the road.

By the way, open track at Pocono and shifting from 4th to 5th on the straightaway and seeing the tach drop from 7000 to 4400 is a trip but that’s also when you realize 60’s aerodynamics don’t compare to today’s cars




80
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: valve adjustment
« on: July 24, 2019, 05:54:33 PM »
  That method is fine with smaller cams. Using the "factory shop manual" way WILL result in loose valves on aftermarket longer duration , higher lift  cams. I've learned a thing or two in 53 years of building "racin" engines.
     Randy
I’m with you and don’t know that I would completely trust the 90 degree rotation starting from TDC to land on the base circle. In hindsight, after finding TDC with a dial indicator and degree wheel and making any cam adjustments go back and use the indicator to find where the bottom is for 1 intake and 1 exhaust lobe in relation to the crank. Whether they’re 180 degrees opposite top to bottom or something else, it should apply to all lobes. Then some simple math would tell you where bottom would be for each cylinders intake and exhaust. A piece of 360 degree timing tape on the balancer while adjusting in the future should make it easy to get to the bottom of all lobes.

81
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: valve adjustment
« on: July 23, 2019, 08:46:38 PM »
  Phred,
    "For me"  the LeMans cam ran best @.018 HOT. When I bought 6S477 in '74 that was the cam in the engine. I tried different lash settings searching for "free" performance at the drag strip. .018 is what worked best for me. I use a bit different method to "run" the valves than those who use the "TDC" method. "I" adjust the intake valve when the exhaust begins to open and then adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve begins to close from full lift. This more time consuming way ensures the lifter IS on the base circle of the cam. Once you "pick" a cylinder to start with , you can follow the firing order to the next one to adjust . I use a remove starter button to "bump" the engine to the next cylinder to adjust.  "My" .018 has drag on the feeler gauge when it's right.
    Randy
This is what I’ve always done ^ but now wonder why I never went a step further and made a simple chart like Mopar guys (with correct firing order) and just turn the crank 90 degrees With a breaker bar rather than try to be exact with each bump. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/moparvalvecard-jpg.1715048444/

82
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Engine Temp Issues
« on: July 14, 2019, 02:16:09 PM »
A few things I would check:

1.) Temperature sending unit: The resistance is supposed to change with temperature and many after market units (made in China) are off the mark which can be why your gauge appears to read hotter than reality. A few years ago I found that Autozone sells units engineered in Wisconsin by Wells Vehicle Electronics which include engineering specs for resistance. (Looks like mfg is in Mexico) The large hole (TU25) for 66 calls for a range of 176 - 24 ohms between 100 and 220 degrees. https://wellsve.com/custom_searches/pdf/sales_drawings/TU25C.pdf

Or https://wvebrand.com/part-detail/sales_drawings/TU22D.pdf

I had a bad one that tested 11 ohms @ 180 and when replaced read 35 ohms @ 180 and the gauge problem went away. I tested by boiling a pot of water with an ohm meter attached to unit and an IR thermometer and observed the change in ohms as things heated up.

Autozone sells them under the Duralast brand as TU25. They used to sell the smaller hole units for earlier Cobra intakes as TU22 but those seem to be out of stock.

2.) consider pouring in a bottle of Water Wetter which is supposed to help with cooling

3.) As far as puking up water, if you do a pressure check and the cap is good, I would double check the torque on your heads to make sure that isn’t causing pressure in the system.

4.) I agree with others on the 160 thermostat and would at a minimum put in a 180

5.) Is the block bored 0.30, 0.40, 0.60?

6.) does the lower radiator hose have the spring in it to prevent collapse?


83
Up For Auction / Re: Hipo Carburetor on Ebay buyer beware
« on: May 10, 2019, 02:30:01 PM »
You also want to have the correct top.  There is an absent vent tube on the choke side and the casting is not drilled for vent.  I will post an image later if no one beats me to it.  The absent feature can be seen in the images from Fast Fords.  The absent feature can be recreated by remoivng the tube and welding and smoothing the hole.  Unlike what Dan described, the choke stop cannot be recreated.

Cory
I have a HiPo carb sitting under my desk so took a shot circled in blue of undrilled casting. Image circled in red is a non HiPo unit with vent tube mentioned by Cory. I seem to recall that Pony Carbs would alter these tops on their clones

84
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Boss302 windage tray on a 289
« on: September 23, 2018, 11:55:25 AM »
All hardware has a torque value for its size.  the chart can be found on-line.  I use the Windage tray withy no problems. Any doubts, use Mil hardware or drill heads for safety wire.
This ^

You can also add some red loctite to the windage tray attaching bolts (not the mains) as an alternative to safety wire

85
The Lounge / Re: Ford's, Mustangs and Shelbys in foreign lands
« on: September 21, 2018, 09:57:12 PM »
I own my 68 convertible since 1989 and drive it often in his new home Switzerland.
This picture taken at this years trip to the Goodwood Revival in Southern England.
In order to get there we have to drive across France and by a channel ferry to England. We do this every year, the Mustang never let us down.
For ten years I was the proud owner of a 1968 GT350 Shelby. I always wanted to make the trip with the Shelby, but sadly i had to sell it before it happened.
https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41105474_10210804112173972_6067545250186919936_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=d89b5b76a464bc0570eb1fd27f2c11da&oe=5C32EA95
Stopped by to see these when I was in Switzerland last year

86
Appeals / Re: Removing Undercoating but Not Paint
« on: August 27, 2018, 09:44:04 PM »
A Scotch brite pad will remove paint as well as undercoating if it comes into contact with it.

Especially the fine overspray when you go through a clean up like this. No matter how careful you are you will likely remove over 50% of the body color and pinch weld overspray and paint as you clean the surface leading you to less than original IMHO picture of what it originally was if you choose to reproduce or copy the details.

Just thought it should be mentioned ;)

Good point on the overspray!

Fine scotchbrite is what I’ve used in the past and wasn’t coarse enough to remove or scratch the enamel. A towel will also wipe off most dissolved undercoating
 

87
Appeals / Re: Removing Undercoating but Not Paint
« on: August 27, 2018, 12:51:40 PM »
BraKleen (green cans) or similar from Autzone and scotch bright pads.

Although I didn’t try, WD-40 is great for dissolving adhesives and may be similar to kerosene to soften undercoating before going at it with scotch brite and BraKleen.

 

88
The Lounge / Re: Hipo Mustang Website
« on: August 18, 2018, 04:40:56 PM »
As usual,  Marv & Hank are MIA. 


Z
Marv was here a few weeks ago with a list of parts for sale http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=2648.0

89
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Silicone Brake Fluid Questions
« on: August 05, 2018, 06:24:00 PM »
Regular fluid is hydroscopic so it will hold the moisture in suspension - until it gets hot enough to boil it out.
Don’t want to go deep into this rat hole as OP is only looking for DOt 5 but...to heat the fluid to boiling point would happen in the caliper and where would that steam go?

90
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Silicone Brake Fluid Questions
« on: August 05, 2018, 11:54:01 AM »
Autozone or Advanced Auto usually stock it. Motor Medic was the last brand I picked up. I consider DOT5 silicone to be equal regardless of brand but that’s just my opinion

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