SAAC Forum

Should be a bulb for Bulb replacement.

Upgrade the flasher to a slower one, such as the ones sold, or try an EL-12 relay style flasher

Cal,

Your trailer & car will be one of many at the track. The track is usually very secure, and they have thier own staff to patrol and man the gates. It's very rare there is ever a problem at this or any large marque gathering, as we are all looking out for each other. I have left mine at many, never an issue.

Best advice? The track is good and safe, relax, enjoy the weekend. It's your first, you will overload on all things Shelby, Mustang, Racing. Have a cold beverage and enjoy!

Going for it again! Tom has promised to stay out of the hospital.

Monday eve, June 21, 7:00 at Shelby's Pub, Allentown PA

Hold the date, more to come!

Just off Rt 33 in Saylorsburg PA

Sat, Sept 18, 9 AM to Noon

More details to come!

When i went through a similar situation on my 69, I also changed the clip, but also added very thin washers/spring washers to insulate the clip from moving parts, and to tighten up the linkage.

Quote from: 2112 on May 09, 2021, 01:45:46 PM

Quote from: 427hunter on May 09, 2021, 12:53:28 PM
All things must come to an end - So as the sands of time fall though the hourglass, so shall this thread fall apart.

I see a couple of guys trying to help out. 

Agreed, just LOTS of useful information, no hi-Jacks.

Just some food for thought, as all the above conversions keep the original Z-Bar and clutch linkage.

If you go to a modern 5.0 bellhousing, It changes the throw-out arm mount to the reverse action, and the original clutch linkage will not work. But, if you are willing to be a little more open, then do a hydraulic clutch conversion, and your left leg with REALLY thank you!

To really make the clutch smooth, add the pedal modifications where the bushings are changed to roller bearings. Makes the clutch pedal feel like shifting a Toyota.

These parts (Hydraulic conversion, pedal bearings) are available as bolt-ins, just takes some research.

I did the hydraulic conversion on mine, and run a SPEC semi-race clutch, smooth as butter. T5Z behind.

On my old 69 Big Block, did the pedal mod, as most of our cars tend to elongate and destroy the pedal pivot holes on the steering column mount.

Both mods are relatively hidden, not a glaring mod, and accepted by almost everybody but the non-driving purists. Again, a little more work and cost, but like all other on the thread, makes driving so much better!

I have a very healthy 331 in mine, what a strong motor! I run the FITECH throttle body EFI, with my own external fuel system. Hidden under the air cleaner, almost invisible.

Cars & Coffee at the Ford dealer. Food, fun, Saturday, 9-12

A mile from Cabella's, get your hunting stuff after!

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10225927299998251&set=pcb.10225927307278433


Pics from the event

Milo,

You are going through a "Rite of Passage" most 68-70 owners have gone through with the sequential and rear lights. Ask any owner.

Yes, you have identified another common problem - the turn signal switch in the column. Replace that. The contacts do burn/corrode, as the extra lights draw up to 3X the original design parameters of a single standard Mustang taillight. Any other questionable wiring, replace that too.

PM me your e-mail, I'll send out that article from Hemmings I wrote all those years ago.

Don't give up.

right on the center rear part that protects the gas fill and trunk lock, usually the wires mount on the pass side. Too many people paint it real nice, so a good ground is never made. Scratch off paint down to metal, clean everything, re-attach

SUNDAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sun will be out, come on out.

I also have years of fixing these cars. All above have identified many of the common problems.

Clean sockets, and check socket wiring

GROUNDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Super critical. Clean the main ground in the trunk from the taillight panel

Check all functions with either the engine running or a battery charger on and operating. Without that, the voltage will be low, and the lights will not work properly.

ENGINE GROUND - MUST have a clean cable to block connection, and a battery to chassis ground it CRITICAL! If you are missing the braided strap at the back of the motor, things will never really work right. If you are not concours, add a ground from the battery directly to the body. In Class, we always teach the "Grounding Triangle" Also makes your car start better.

Keep us posted, ask questions.

Due to a last minute health issue with Tom, the meeting will go back to virtual one more time. We were looking forwards to getting the gang back together, so next meeting for sure!

Please reach out to me if you wish to join us, and get the ZOOM information. E-mail me at Reiterdrds@ptd.net, and I can e-mail to link e-mail.