SAAC Forum

I have an original  67 Shelby C6 trans that I purchased from Tim L for my GT500.

The transmission will be mounted to a 67 FE 427 MR Side Oiler.

What torque converter stall speed do you guys have or recommend?

Primarily street driven w/occasional strip.

I am not sure that a formula exists to determine this, but this is the info that is usually asked by those that make/sell converters ...

Car:
3:25 posi rear
Tires - Rear 235 60 15

Engine: 
C7AE-A/427-67 Side Oiler Block (Date 7C3)
C5AE-6090-F / 427-1965-67 427 Medium Riser Heads  (Date 7A5)
C5AE-C  427 Crank 427 High performance Forged Lemans (Date 2-67)
Rods - C6AE-E - Forged Lemans
2x4 Intake - C7AE 8525A Medium Riser
C5AF-9510-BC/Holley list 3301 - 1965-67 427 Ford 427 medium riser holley. Secondary card from 2 x 4V 
710 cfm each. No choke. Matching carb C5AF-9510-BD Holley list 3300 427 medium riser holley. Primary carb from 2 x 4V 
Dyno:
Max Torque 473 @ 4800RPM
Max HP 462 @ 6000 RPM
93 Octane Gas with 10:1 Compression

CAM:
Ford 352-428 Solid
Grind FE 272/282 -1OF
Duration @ 50   238  -   248
Separation   110
Duration @20  `272 - 282

I have had recommendations from 2200-2500 stall converter to 2500-3000 stall converter.

I believe that the usual 12" converter will not work, but possibly an 11"  or even 10".  I am concerned about the heat of running a 10" converter.

Anyone have any experience or recommendations using the smaller converter?
I talked with Performance Automatic, Broader and Summit.

Thank you!

Ron

I paid $1038 for my FPA headers last June 2017.   

The set-up includes ceramic coating ($235),  p/s drop bracket ($39), headers for a 427 MR with C6 trans ($695) plus shipping and packing.

I would imagine the price is similar for a 4 speed trans.

Ron

I went with FPA,  Unfortunately, I cannot comment on fitment as I am still a few weeks out from installation.  I has been a long process, but getting close now!
I have not had any luck adding attachments to my posts, but I did upload a pic into the gallery.
Ron

http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;u=263

I took the advice of several owners on this forum and had my original comfortweave sewn into a new outer cover for the drivers seat.  I think it turned out really nice.  Pax seat and rear seat are still original.  Having problems posting pics at this time.
Ron

Beautiful car Ryan!  Welcome to the forum and the Nightmist Blue club.
I hope to have the engine and trans back in #861 soon!
Ron

The pics help a great deal.   Thank you!

Awesome write-up and info Bob.  Thank you!  I learn something every time I crawl under the car and confirm here at the SAAC Forum.   Unfortunately, I paid to have the wrong power steering control valve rebuilt.  Lesson learned!
Ron 

1)  Do all 67's have the 1/4" pressure point fitting on the control valve or did some have the 5/16th?   Mine has the 5/16th with a date code of 70, so it must have been swapped out at one point in time.

2)  Return line from the power steering pump to the p/s cooler.  What does this line look like and how is it routed?  Is it a rubber line completely with crimp clamps on both ends?

Thanks!

Ron

Greetings All,

I am sure that this has been discussed numerous time before, but what was the standard axle in a 67 GT 500 Auto?  I have a 31 spline in my Jan built GT 500 with auto trans.

I just added a Yukon posi, so looking forward to having it all back together for a test drive!

Thanks

Ron

Thank you Jeff.  Those pics were very helpful!
The car is a Jan build with lots of Dec 66 dated parts on it.
Ron

I media blasted my old splash shields, but don't remember which way the staples go in.  Is his correct?
Ron

Unfortunately, I was not able to meet with Mr. Flolo.  His car is #00508.  According to the Registry, it was previously owned by Pete Anderson.

Hey Guys,

Does anyone know if Dennis Flolo is a member of SAAC?  He has a beautiful 67 GT 500 at the Houston Auto Show.  I would like to make contact with him
as our cars are very similar (Nightmist Blue, Auto and FE427) but his has A/C that gorgeous Parchment Interior.

Thanks

Ron

Thanks Bob!  That sounds like a lot of work.  I will clean them the best that I can and leave it at that!

I am cleaning up and painting the under-dash Stewart-Warner instrument cluster and was wondering if you can clean the inside of the amperes gauge glass?
I removed all the nuts on the back side, but see no way of getting to the glass.   Can you remove the chrome ring rim without breaking the glass or aluminum casing?

Thanks
Ron