SAAC Forum

That is my car.. yes, not perfect but it's driven regularly and it's a fun car.. one day when the time is right I will fix a few of the mistakes of past owners.. The car is actually a factory White car with black interior.. #486.. Those pics on Instagram don't do the car many favours..

Thanks.. definitely fluid.. oh well, rebuild it is..

Hi, I tracked the leak from the control valve to the zerk fitting.. I've taken the nipple off in the pic.. is this a seal issue ?.. or is there a bigger problem inside the valve ? Kinda strange place for a leak ..

Thanks

Quote from: 68krrrr on December 24, 2020, 01:27:27 PM
Trying to figure out WTF I'm supposed to do with these metal tabs that I got from the DMV today to go with my recommissioned California black license plate ,I picked the plate up from a vendor on eBay recently and it starts with a U which is correct for a 1967 California plate .It also came with a 67 tag on it ,when  I took it to the DMV they told me to keep the sticker on it,which I kind of like any way but don't want these metal tabs hanging off my plate.

Cut a fridge magnet to the correct shape and stick the new sticker to it.. Place it over the 67 sticker..

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/mustang_jack_identification_guide_v1.3.pdf

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/quick_guide_-_mustang_jacks.pdf

Mustang Jack Guide thanks to Anghel Restorations

Doug, FPA headers do fit with the stock linkage.. I run them on my 67 GT 500 with the factory Z bar..
They do require a couple of small mods.. One is, one pipe runs close to the block skirt.. fixed that with a file.. The other was the bottom of the Z bar, I filed that too as a precaution, as it seemed to run close to one of the pipes..
The biggest issue I hade was the passenger side.. the top bolt from the idler arm touches one pipe..

Hi Doug, that photo of your car looks great hanging in your house.. hope you and Kathy are keeping well..

Terry

He does say it's a Repo in the description.. Maybe he took your advice..

OK, so the 2 Tach wires are the Red / Green stripe that loops from the ign switch and has a female connector and the Pink / Red has the bullet connector.. This is the one you use to splice into for the 12V feed ?

(just noticed the terminal popped out of the Ign Switch block)

I had a old loom around, so I did a mock up of how or where to splice the new 12 V wire that runs out to the Pertronix.. Splice is done on the red / green stripe wire..
"The going thing" is this how you did yours ?

I still have a set of those that I picked up at a swap meet 30 years ago.. I never did find out where or what they fitted.. but they looked cool sitting on the shelf in the cave..
Hope you can find out more about them..

Here is his email address

captcj@hughes.net

Hi Randy, yep your right with supply issues, and I total understand that, that was his issue with the pistons, but I had to chase him for information, which was like playing detective across different forums until I got a response.. Wouldn't answer via his company emails. I would even ring his business phone number and it would just go to answer phone, on multiple occasions.. Then the stories would not align.. and I was prepared to hang in there and wait for the parts, but man,it just became " shit I'm going to lose my coin here" if I don't do something. So I asked for it back, and then that became a drawn out process.. and that's the short version of events..
I ended up getting what I needed from Blair Patrick.. Now, there is a top bloke to do business with..

6972Boss, i had the same problem, but with a FE stroker kit, brought through his web site.. paid the coin and then nothing.. what a drama..
Your story sounded exactly what happened to me.. All sorts of excuses.. 1 year later i finally got my money back.. Never again.. Put my engine build back 2 years. I'm sure there is going to be some folks who say, "he was great to deal with", but i'm with you.. tread carefully..

How about just posting the "How to do this" for all to see ?