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Make sure the headers you buy will fit with the original z-bar clutch components. The FPA tri-ys don't. You need a hydraulic clutch with those.
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ShelbyDoug, i run the FPA tri-ys with the original z-bar components.. You do have to trim the bottom off the bracket that is bolted to the block, so it fits flush with the block.. but no need for a hydraulic setup..

Go one better and contact Blair Patrick.. He will give you great cam information and his service is very good..    captcj@hughes.net

The thing is I don't need the whole set up.. Some where a long the way, the front linkage was replaced with a incorrect one.. Really just looking for that part or a set of linkage rods..

Hi, looking for a front carb linkage.. this is the shorter of the 2 linkage's.. I would take both linkages, if require as a set.. they have to be original.. Thanks

I did a chrome export brace a number of years ago.. I am sure a just sanded it and then I sprayed it with a Wurth product.. Then over sprayed that with a semi gloss black.. worked a treat.. I will see if I still have the Wurth can on my self..

#486 - 3 hole - SA completion 1/31/67

Your right, they are not 6114 Hookers, They are FPA Headers.. I didn't say the Hookers were on my car.. They were on my friends 68 390 Mustang with a auto trans.. and we bolted the drivers side header on and installed it with the passenger header sitting in the engine bay.. But that's ok, ill keep doing what i do, and i know how to do it without banging around the shock towers and you can keep doing what you do.. I just found an easier way.. no problem..
Actually, i just rang my brother in law, who has just finished installing his 390 into his 68 4 speed car, with 6114 Hookers, and he did it how i explained.. i didn't help on his install as i was away overseas.. but on all accounts he said worked a treat..

ShelbyDoug - Once i get the oil pan over the radiator support, i use a race jack under the tail shaft to raise the rear up as i drop the engine into place.. No need to raise the rear of the car.
You are correct, i did make a few surgical whacks with a ball pen hammer, so the Z bar had room to swing..
I also fitted the passenger header gasket on the head, using a high temp gasket cement and bolting the header on and leaving over night.. Remove the header and you have half the job done.. Place the header in the engine bay, once it comes time to pull the header up, place gasket cement on the header and bolt it on the head.. easy..
I also have 2 extra helping hands with good big block mustang experience to help.. not real important, but we use the day to get together and talk all things FE Ford..
Key is, Preparation, Preparation, Preparation.. the rest is easy..

Well 1967 Eight Barrel, that's a big call.. Here is a picture of the engine going into my GT500 with the drivers side header attached..
Like i side, i have also done this with a set of Hooker super comps.. Both cars we had the gear box attached, and installed as a unit..

I have a similar problem, but at low speeds.. I have a rebuilt control valve and a rebuilt pump and all new lines.. Spoke to the guys at Chockostang and they said it is the steering box.. i have a replacement, but have not had time to replace it..
Let us know how you get on..

I recently installed my engine with the drivers side header installed on the engine.. I placed the passenger side header in the engine bay..Once i got it in the right position i pulled it up and bolted it on.. These were FPA headers.. Worked a treat.
I also have done it this way on a 68 390 Mustang with super comp hooker headers.. Done both with the transmission attached.. My GT500 is a 4 Spd car and the 68 was a auto..
leave the booster off, that way you can install the engine with the valve covers on..
Also as mentioned, if the headers are new, better do a test fit, or you will be throwing your tools around before you know it..

After seeing another Booster issue on the forum, i thought it about time i posted the out come of my idle issue when pressing on the brake pedal..

I spoke to Steve at Booster Exchange about the problem and he made a comment "yep, these Midland boosters are a little bit tricky to do,". Once i got the booster to him and he went though it, the problem was the "control valve poppet" which is often over looked and not replaced, but is an important part to the rebuild..
I got the booster back and installed it and its perfect.. No idle issue..

Some other things that Steve said to be aware of with the Midland Booster.. The band has to be a perfect seal.. Also they don't like sitting around on a shelf or in the car un-used.. 2 years max on a shelf or you might as well get it rebuilt again..

As other forum members have mentioned, Steve and his team are great from the beginning to delivery,  top notch..

I just finished my 428 and we started with a standard bore block that had just under 15 thou wear. We got some 15 thou custom CP pistons from Blair Patrick and Honed the bores.. It cost more to do it this way, but the results are better. Also spend time on getting the intake manifold Square. Again takes time and depending on what has been milled off the block or heads, will require it to be sent to the machine shop to have it milled.. But it is worth the $$.. no sucking oil from a poor fitting intake manifold.

Pittsburgh